I'm thinking the cheapest reg/rec solution is to look for a used MOSFET one off a wrecker bike, since the efficiency and reliability seems way better. The fact that the bike starts well on 3 cylinders is making diagnostics annoying, but the carburetor is still the main suspect. These downdraught carbs are complex compared to basic round slide thumper ones
I've found some decent reg/recs on ebay. FH020aa seems to have the most info and a secondhand one from an R1 is $120, but a FH010ba from a zx14 is only 30 bucks? Obviously I'd rather spend 30 than 120, but I cant find a datasheet or anything for it and I wanna be sure its a MOSFET. So does anyone know if the 010ba is a MOSFET and gunna work or should i fork out on the 020aa?
@my67xr did a great review of reg/rectifiers https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/shindengen-regulator-rectifiers.10005/
I am 99% sure the FH010 are the mosfet type, there are a few mosfet reg/rect's that style SH775, FH008, FH009, FH010, FH012, FH020, FH847 etc, the last few letter's are different version's some have different plug's etc The most common one's use the Furukawa QLW250 series plug's
Not sure if i mentioned it here or not, i have been running a Shindengen SH713 off an R6 since 2016 without any problem's, they are also used on the R3's and a few other bike's It run's luke warm on my bike Much easier/cheaper to find the plug for your wiring too https://www.jaycar.com.au/automotive-6-way-plug-socket-250-series/p/PP2068
Thanks i went and ordered the mosfet one. I'm planning to swap it over to my dirt bike for a long adventure ride sometime next year so worth the bit extra imo
Carbs are off yet again and i hope I've found my problem this time. One of the air jets, idk the exact name, had carb cleaner pooled in it and wasnt draining. Also it was cylinder 4s carb. Bit of wire poked through and spraying directly and it began flowing again... So I'm really hoping that was it
I'm kinda out of ideas with this one cylinder. Put the carbies back on and still nothings happening. Plug is dry after running for a couple of minutes at different levels of throttle and choke. But i can't find anything wrong with the carburetor, everything is clean and has holes where its meant to. Also bench synced. Any ideas?
Yes, I didn't measure them exactly, but i compared them to all the others. Might be worth a double check though
Sometimes the carb passageways are very blocked, the best way the clean them is to strip the body and stick it in an ultrasonic cleaner with hot water and some dishwashing liquid or similar.
Fuel levels are the same, double checked that so i don't think its that. I tried running it at about 6krpm and then pulled the plug and it was dry. I know the main jet and needle jet circuit is clean for sure, i stuck some wire all the way through, so could the idle circuit be clogged? When does the bike start running off the needle and not the idle circuit?
The carbs start running on the needles as soon as you start to open the throttle. You can often see a fuel spray/mist emitting from the top of the needle jet as you blip the throttle and the slides lift. Are you sure it is still not electrical? I only ask as I was chasing a miss on my CBR900RR earlier today. #1 was not firing. Exhaust header cold to touch after a few seconds of running. Plug was blackish (seen worse) but it measured open circuit on a meter. When I connected it up the plug lead (out of the motor) with the case grounded, there was spark visible but not across the gap. It was sparking across the carbon on the insulator nose. A good clean and bingo, working again.
Im not ruling electrical out completely but I've replaced the plug, swapped caps and it sparks, at least outside the engine
If the needle has an effect straight away wouldn't there be at least some fuel on the plug after running at 6k~ rpm if that jet was definitely clean?