FZR250 questions

for what you're troubleshooting you'll get good at electrics very quickly.

You've either got continuity through wires or they're open circuit and switches are either on or they're off.

I've often wondered about swapping an entire loom, which may introduce more problems than it solves.

good thing is, with just the tank and seat removed you can test the wires and plugs for pretty much most of the loom. The rest is basically behind the gauges.

The neutral switch and oil light are two separate wiring sections that come up from the in front of the chain guard and into the loom in individual plugs to the right and in front of the battery. Easy to locate.

Spend a little time checking what runs where and unplugging known good working switches, like the side stand switch for example and you'll get a feel for it.

Also check for sharp kinks with potentially broken wires inside on smaller single and double wire cables

peace out

 

this is a link to the fzr600 wiring diagram it will give you the basic layout of what goes where

http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/my-fizzer.872/page-19#post-14340

 

nah mate, i use kalgar for that. also sniff the fumes and lite a match to clean out the sinusses.lol

 

have you fixed this problem with neutral/oil pressure lights staying on? Willrcr15. The early 1HX had a level sensor with the cartridge filter, and the later had a pressure switch and spin on filter. All 3 switches level, pressure and neutral, use an earth switching, on bikes with the level switch, the oil light will test on during crank as the switch should be open, its circuit is closed by low oil level, on bikes with the pressure switch, when you turn on ignition the light is on, the switch is grounded, it's circuit is opened by oil pressure putting the light out... if someone has fitted a later engine with a pressure switch where the harness is designed for a level sensor... this could cause problems

 

200kph - I'm impressed - standard gearing?
how long was the straight?

 

I had mine off the clock out back off Somerset on a massive straight took while to get up there but can say they can get there

 

i would say the straight was about 160km with a few curves. the bike went like a scalded cat. i was tempted to follow but discretion got the better of me and somebody who was temptetuous got a flashing light.

 

well if either of you Newcastle NSW boys need a hand, let me know, I hate flashing lights Risky, especially the blue ones

 

i think the winner got a red and blue one and a 425 prize.

 

Will, the easy way to tell which harness it has is, the 3LN1 had a fuse under the RH bobtail, near the battery along the outside of the frame, from 3LN3 they had a fuse box with 4 fuses under the seat

 

been looking at variations between the models on the parts catalogue, the main relay is different on the 3ln1, compared to later 3LN3 on. The exup control, the spark control unit, ignition switch... all different between the 3LN and later... my red bike had the same modification... but never had it running with that configuration... picked up a sump and level switch off ebay... put it back to how it was... had to do some minor repairs where the previous idiot had scotch locked the wires together...

 

I'm 67kg (wringing wet... LOL) is your sprocket setup standard? I'm running 17/47... instead of doing 7000 at 80kph its sitting on 6000.... had it at 150kph sitting on 11000... it could easily do 160 (100mph) in 5th gear I recon.... has yours had the speed limiter disconnected... its built into the speedo... Australian models are supposed to be speed limited to 180kph...

 

I'm interested to hear more about the speed limiter if anyone has specific details.

I recall reading the details about something that triggers the TCI ignition limiter contained within the speedo - no specifics however

peace out