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Help FZR250 - Things to check buying a non runner

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by neoncrypnid, Feb 25, 2020.

  1. neoncrypnid

    neoncrypnid Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    G'day,
    Gunna go look at a 89 fzr250 this weekend that's not running and has been sitting for a while. What should I check for in regards to mechanics? I'm looking for a good project for the winter, ready for my Ls in spring. Im good with mechanical stuff, done top ends and tinkered with pretty much everything that can be tinkered with on my dirt bikes, but this will be my first road bike.

    So yeah my main question is what to check to make sure the motor isn't cactus. Also, what's the parts availability like? I had a look on eBay and that, are those Chinese bits any good?
    If all goes well I'll write up an intro this weekend lol.
    Sorry if this is the wrong spot to post
     
  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I've used the Chinese pistons and rings off aliexpress with success (AHL brand) before.

    Apart from the usual old bike woes of neglect, abuse and mechanical geniuses inflicting their skills upon poor undeserving motorcycles, 3LN FZR's will almost certainly need new carb bits, the needles and emulsion tubes in particular are known to wear out due to the angle they sit at, lack of a proper retention mechanism/spring and vibrations.

    Kits are available from moyorcyclespareswarehouse.com

    Can chain and valves clearances are a good idea, the tensioners are pretty robust and I've never had an issue with one.

    Spark leads and caps, trim the leads or just replace them, check the caps aren't corroded.

    Anything rubber on a bike of this era will need attention or replacement.
     
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  3. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Carbs are the problematic component with FZR's - but relax, you've come to the right place for that.
    This place is now awash with FZR carb Gurus

    Non-runner - it was probably laid up because of carb issues, and then there is the valve clearances - not difficult.

    first port of call would be to do the carbs at any rate - get yourself a full seal kit from Litetek c/o @maelstrom

    https://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Yamaha_FZR250_3LN1.html

    Expect if it's a 3LN1 - 1989 - then the needles and needle jets will be worn so you will need Keyster kits from Motorcycle spares warehouse.

    EDIT - I originally posted links to 3ln3/5 carb kits - the correct 3ln1 kits are below

    https://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/k-1205yks-ky-carb-repair-and-parts-kit

    https://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/products/k-1205yku-ky-carb-repair-and-parts-kit

    Beware the main jets in these kits are backwards - the outer carbs take the LARGER JETS, which for previous purchasers have been in the kits for the INNER carbs and vice versa.

    They don't have any chronic mechanical points of failure past the maintenance issues above.

    Here's the howto for the valve clearances - it's a cake walk

    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?...zx250-valve-clearances-howto.1697/#post-12542

    The rest by inspection and trust your instincts - lots of battered bolts or mangled screws, the prognosis might not be so great
     
  4. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Theres absolute loads of info on the FZR on this forum

    Heres a starter ... read about mine ... that should keep u going for 3 days :lolsign:

    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/my-fizzer.872/

    I rode it for like 7 years and never touched the motor internally ... and its now retired to the drag strip to thrash it even more

    As mentioned the biggest thing is the carbs , then the carbs and then u will have carb problems

    Buy a drum of Delo400 and some JIS screwdrivers and live the dream :thumb_ups:

    Chances are the bike u are checking out will be a neglected pile of junk ....its old , its been owned by 20 wannabes and ridden by P platers as its a LAMs bike and its grey imported from Japan so its probably done twice as many Ks than the odometer says by 20 Japanese wannabes , but theres always another $500 dunga around to pilfer for parts that arnt available new .... theres enough parts at my place to probably build 5 bikes ... they are common

    Look here for many more parts available online than just ebay

    https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/online-sites-for-parts-and-accessories.3736/
     
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  5. neoncrypnid

    neoncrypnid Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Wow you guys are amazing. Faster replies ever. Thanks for the advice. I plan to bring a spare car battery and try and crank it over, maybe a bit of start ya bastard and try and get a fire, but sounds like I shouldn't expect it to run without overhauling the carbs? Oh and do they have a side plug to turn the motor over by hand or will I have to yank a side cover off for access?
     
  6. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Check the oil with something before you crank it, perhaps a sniff test for petrol if by chance a needle and seat leaked into the cylinder -> sump

    You could pull the stator cover, but no decompression lever is that is what you mean by side plug

    If you take a plug socket you can pull the plugs - chances are they will be sooty, because of those aforementioned carbs, those dang carbs, those cursed carbs, but you will grow to love them - everything you need to know about them is on this site

    I got my 3LN1 for free, it had been sitting for ~7 years apparently, surprisingly it was unmolested, not harassed bolts or mangled screws to be found, just neglected

    try your luck
     
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  7. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    @neoncrypnid do u have a photo of the bike ? ... pictures tell a thousand lies but it gives us an idea of what youre looking at and an idea on its worth
     
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  8. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    The stator cover is on the right hand side, there is a plastic plug for the timing mark, but you can take the whole cover off and turn the motor over with a socket. No gasket, only dowels and magnets on the rotor holding it on.
     
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  9. neoncrypnid

    neoncrypnid Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Alright sounds good, I'll bring some tools and a bit of oil. I'll negotiate the price once I see it and give it an inspection. Not sure of the story behind it, but I think it was under a tarp in a backyard for a few years. Hasn't ran since battery went flat apparently
    ad_2_1582426957272.jpg ad_0_1582426957262.jpg ad_1_1582426957269.jpg
     
  10. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    That's a 2KR or 3HX if it has EXUP. Different model carbs and should not suffer from needle/emulsion tube problems
     
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  11. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Changing the oil is quite a bit of work, just check what's in there with a pencil or something, if it's not stinking and black, then as long as the level is OK, try starting it

    It looks relatively tidy, obviously not near the ocean or a damp climate which is a good thing
     
  12. neoncrypnid

    neoncrypnid Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Good to know, thanks
     
  13. driftwood

    driftwood Well-Known Member

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    Dohh, yeah. S'pose it should work with head missing on that emulsion/needle valve anyway? Ordered 4
     

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