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FZX250 Zeal - Getting Familiar

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Zeal4Life, Mar 29, 2014.

  1. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Decided to have a fair go at my first bike tonight just to become familiar, before contemplating the inevitable carburettors.

    All up, I have spent a couple of months researching motorcycles, bought some decent tools, and after purchasing the FZX250 I spent an additional few weeks of reading, gathering all possible documentation, asking questions, and making sure that I know what I'm getting myself into.

    With my first attempt last night I was only confident enough to get to the fuel tank. Tonight I've removed it, checked the air filter, inspected cables and lines, and so far, am confident with the job done.

    Here's a scene of the aftermath, and after I put it back to one piece I'll explain a few steps in a little more detail later.

    IMG_20140329_192512.jpg
    Yeah I can do Yoga, see.

    And hopefully I'll Never need that thing on the far left :D

    --
    Sent from my BlackBerry Z10
     
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  2. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    1999 Yamaha FZX250 Zeal (3YX2) - FZX299A
    Read the owners manual: here or here
    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/categories/fzx250-zeal.32/
    https://sites.google.com/site/yamahafzx250zeal/Manuals


    Tools:
    3/8" Drive Ratchet
    1/4" Socket
    5/32" Allen bit + 10mm Socket
    150mm No2 Phillips screwdriver
    Needle nose pliers

    Consult the manual(for the most part)
    1. Unlock the steering (p3-1)
    2. Close the fuel cock in the off position (p3-9)
    3. Pop the passenger seat to access the rider's seat bolt (p3-10)
    4. Remove the rider's seat with the bolt (p3-10)
      • 1/4" Socket
        • FZX250_Bolt_Rider.Seat.jpg
    5. Disconnect the battery, Negative(black) terminal first (and last to reconnect)
      • 1/4" Socket
        • FZX250_Battery_FuseBox.jpg
    6. Remove both side fairings(air scoops) and each of their two screws (p6-9)
      • 5/32" Allen bit + 10mm Socket
        • FZX250_Screw_Air.Scoop.jpg
    7. Remove the front pouch and its four screws (p6-9)
      • 5/32" Allen bit + 10mm Socket
        • FZX250_Pouch_Fuel.Tank.jpg
    8. Remove the screw from inside the fuel cock's tap and remove the tap/lever (p6-9)
      • 150mm No2 Phillips screwdriver
        • [picture pending]
    9. Disconnect the fuel hose feeding into the fuel pump (p6-9)
      • Needle nose pliers
        • FZX250_Hose_Fuel.Pump_Tank.Bolts.jpg
    10. Remove the four bolts hold the fuel tank in place (p6-9)
      • 1/4" Socket
      • Also see above pic for bolts
        • FZX250_Bolts.Front_Fuel.Tank.jpg
    11. Inspect the Air Filter (p6-10)
      • 150mm No2 Phillips screwdriver
        • FZX250_Compartment_Air.Filter.jpg
    Also, check fuel filter, hoses, cables, connections etc.
    FZX250_Electrics_Hoses.jpg
    FZX250_Maintenance.Componentsjpg.jpg

    I could say(and probably true) that this is the bare minimum every rider should know if they intend to keep a motorcycle.
    FZX250_Maintenance.Ready.jpg

    As I've now just found for myself, keeping a motorcycle can be a very valuable experience. Both on and off the street :thumb_ups:
     

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    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  3. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I know I should have asked before buying :dance2:<-- zealot

    Just purchased some oils etc. and wondering if the first two in the list are compatible with the FZX250 Zeal (3YX2):
    • Castrol Activ 4T 15w-50 Motorcycle Oil
    • Ryco Z436
    • Degreaser
    • Castrol O-R chain spray x 2
    • WD-40
    • Servisol Electrical clean and lube
    Is the filter and motor oil ok for this model Zeal, or are there much more suitable candidates out there than these?
     
  4. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    FZX250_Fuel.Tap.Screw.jpg

    **** and ****'s <-- are automatically censored words.
    So, for the sake of simple phonetics, a male organ :lolsign:
     
  5. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Oil and filter are OK.
     
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  6. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Replacing the Loud Horn
    Three weeks delivery time and I finally received a replacement horn for the FZX250 Zeal.

    Tools:
    10mm Wrench

    Original loud horn :
    Nikko - CF-12, 100dB, 12V, 1.5A, 65mm

    FZX250_Compare_Loud.Horn.12v_1500mA.jpg

    Replacement loud horn:

    Universal - 105dB, 12V, 1.5A, 65mm

    FZX250_Replace_Loud.Horn.12v_1500mA.jpg

    Paying particular attention to the black wire with a white stripe, and that its placement remains consistent.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2014
  7. Koos Barnard

    Koos Barnard Member

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    Hi,

    The info is much appreciated and i know that i will learn more as we go along.
    Thank you very much for the info.

    Enjoy your day.
     
  8. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    When I've finished with a basic document that I'm currently throwing together I'll let you know.

    Sourcing parts seems to be a challenge though a few mods here and there may go a treat anyways.
    The Zeal is a good bike to learn on :thumb_ups: But I say that now as I'm yet to hit the carburettors :lolsign:

    And I'll probably check the plugs tomorrow, so should be interesting what tell-tales come up there :D
     
  9. Koos Barnard

    Koos Barnard Member

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    Hi again,

    Where can i get the sizes of the telescopic fork sizes, as i need to purchase them and need the sizes. Please could you assist in this matter as you have the same bike.

    Thanks again.
     
  10. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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  11. Koos Barnard

    Koos Barnard Member

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    Thank you very much, will go there straight away.

    Do appreciate.
     
  12. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Servicing the Spark Plugs

    Additional Tools:
    3/8" Torque Wrench
    3/8" Drive Extension bar 75mm
    3/8" Drive Universal Joint
    5/8" Spark Plug Socket
    Anti-Seize Lubricant 28g (for aluminium cylinder head-equipped engines)

    Cleaning:

    Nail Brush
    Hair Dryer
    Oven cleaner
    Baby Wipes
    Hand pump:idk: (found useful for cleaning dirt from plug chambers)
    Torque.Wrench.5-80ftlb_Air.Pump.jpg

    1. Unscrew and loosen the hose clamps to the air cleaner case and disconnect hose

    FZX250_Air.Cleaner_Hose.and.Clamp.jpg
    2. Remove air cleaner

    FZX250_Air.Cleaner.Case..jpg FZX250_Air.Cleaner.Case.2.jpg
    Clean with baby wipes, came up alright, missed the pics.

    FZX250_Carburetor.Assembly.Intake.jpg FZX250_Carburetor.Assembly2.jpg

    FZX250_Carburetor.Intake.Slide_Open.jpg
    Intake chamber looks and functions ok on all 4

    FZX250_Carburetor.Joint.jpg
    This carburetor joint looks a bit upset, the other 3 are a tad happier

    FZX250_Mikuni.BDST28_Pilot.Screws.jpg FZX250_Mikuni.BDST28_Pilot.Screw.Cyl4.jpg
    Pilot Screws 1-3 and 4, lackinig consistentcy it seems. Number 2 is stained, and probably has more air.

    3. Remove spark plug caps
    * Peel back the rubber boot and rotate the assembly off
    FZX250_Spark.Lead.Numbered_Plug.Assembly.jpg FZX250_Spark.Cap.Assembly.jpg FZX250_Cap.Assembly.Lead.jpg
    Spark plug leads are numbered, caps seem in good condition.
    Would trim the lead wires if I had the tools, also wasn't sure if length allowed such a trim. Next time maybe.


    FZX250_Spark.Plug.and.Chamber.jpg FZX250_Chamber_Spark.Plug.jpg
    This is where I needed an air compressor to clean out the chambers before removing the plugs, but all I could find was a double action hand pump :lolsign:
    Maybe should try a keyboard vacuum or something of the sort...

    FZX250_CR8E.Spark.Plug_Cyl1_Fouled.jpg FZX250_CR8E.Spark.Plug_Cyl2_Fouled.jpg FZX250_CR8E.Spark.Plug_Cyl3_Fouled.jpg FZX250_CR8E.Spark.Plug_Cyl4_Fouled.jpg
    Spark plugs for cylinders 1-4 in order.
    These plugs look to be carbon fouled by a rich fuel-air mixture, and I'm assuming it's the float bowl seals.

    4. Clean the spark plugs

    FZX250_CR8E.Spark.Plug.Cleaning.Kit.jpg
    Roustabout while the sparks soak in oven cleaner -- in a medium sized yoghurt container for approx. 2 hours or so. Then a good scrub with a nail brush, and a good blow dry for that extra class treatment.

    FZX250_CR8E.Spark.Plug_Cleaned.jpg
    Scrubbed up a bit of alright there :D
    ... didn't have the means to check the gap.

    4. Installation of spark plugs

    FZX250_Anti-Seize_Spark.Plug.CR8E.jpg FZX250_CR8E.Spark.Plug_Anti-Seize.jpg
    Anti-Seize Lubricant, and a little something like this maybe :idk:
    :lolsign:

    After cleaning the plugs I took the bike out for a quick run of 5km and noticed an immediate improvement with performance, generally a more smooth operation and response coming from the engine.

    I'll definitely change the oil and filter sometime this week :thumb_ups:
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 13, 2014
  13. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Have you visited the Resources area of 2fiftycc.com?
    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/categories/fzx250-zeal.32/

    There's a document there called Yamaha FZX250 Zeal General Specifications:
    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/yamaha-fzx250-zeal-specifications.150/

    A very convenient repository, and there's a lot of experience moving about the forums so maybe a few pictures and a general specifics about your MO and that should get things into gear just fine :neo:
     
  14. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    1999 Yamaha FZX250 Zeal (3YX2) - FZX299A
    Had some fun wrestling with the phone's digital camera, fumbling it around, and somehow lost a of the original pics from a corrupt memory card...
    Engine Oil & Filter Replacement

    Tools:
    8 Litre Oil Drain Dish
    3/8" Torque Wrench
    17mm Socket
    3/8" Drive Universal Joint
    Anti-Seize Lubricant 28g (for aluminium cylinder head-equipped engines)

    Replacement Products
    Castrol Activ 4T 15w-50 Motorcycle Oil
    Ryco Z436
    Cleaning and disposal:
    Flattened cardboard box (to catch spillage under bike)
    Juice(Orange) Container 3 Litres
    Plastic wrap/Cling film/Food wrap
    Baby Wipes :idk: they do the job.

    1. Sit the drain dish under the bolt and filter
    I didn't briefly warm the bike up before proceeding, was thinking the heavies will be settled to be pushed out first with flow pressure.

    FZX250_Engine.Oil_.Strainer_Drain.Bolt.jpg

    2. Remove the Drain Bolt and drain out the old oil

    FZX250_Engine.Oil_.Strainer_Drain.Bolt_Removed.jpg
    Drained it completely into the 8L oil drain dish.
    The old oil wasn't too bad and no obvious shards and pieces or damaged threads :thumb_ups:

    3. Remove the filter and drain the remaining oil
    • Baby wipes to clean old filter and can remove by hand
    • Also, clean all areas
    FZX250_Engine.Oil_Filter.Union.Bolt.jpg
    4. Install Replacement Filter
    FZX250_Engine.Oil_Replacement.Filter.jpg

    • Use clean engine oil to lubricate the replacement filter's rubber seal before installing
    • I used anti-seize on the drain bolt just for good measure. Torque 4.3 m-kg.
    FZX250_Engine.Oil_New.Filter.and.Plug.Fitted.jpg

    5. Replenish System with New Oil

    Approximately 2.2 Litres(with new filter) are needed for the mighty Zeal

    FZX250_Engine.Oil_Crankcase_Plug.and.Oil.Level_pic2.jpg
    • Remove the plug on top of the crankcase, located on the other side of the bike, and fill with most of the required oil.

    I didn't measure the oil accurately as I was pouring it into the crankcase. Would've been easier if measures were imprinted on the oil container etc...:idk:

    FZX250_Engine.Oil_Crank.Case.Window_Level_Full.jpg
    So, I idled the bike for a few minutes to circulate and heat the oil after about 2 litres(I think), then turned off and left to sit. I done this a couple of times all the while topping up with more oil. After turning it off for a further few minutes I got this final reading -- and I'll be sure to keep an eye on it in future. Will probably need to drain it some.

    6. Ready for Waste Disposal

    FZX250_Engine.Oil_Waste.jpg
    A common 3L container is suitable for the waste oil.

    FZX250_Engine.Oil_Waste.Preparation.jpg
    Secured the 3L rim with thin plastic film.
    FZX250_Engine.Oil_Service.Waste.Products.jpg
    ... and the filter too.

    FZX250_Engine.Oil_Service.Complete.jpg
    ...and Voila! not a lot to it :thumb_ups: ... except posting up this stuff to the web can take a fair slog too :idk:
    :lolsign:
     

    Attached Files:

  15. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    1999 Yamaha FZX250 Zeal (3YX2) - FZX299A
    FZX250_Engine.Oil_Crank.Case.Window_Check.Level_Full.jpg
    After warming up, turning off, and letting it sit for a few... the oil level remains consistent :thumb_ups: but...

    about two weeks back the bike had suddenly picked up a deep note to its sound, and whilst servicing the spark plugs I finally found the time to inspect the exhaust and muffler.

    FZX250_Muffler_Leak.jpg
    So, when I was checking for the assumed hole as soon as I found it with my hand this soot and water mixture spilled out. I inspected the leak, cranked the bike, gave it some wind.

    FZX250_Muffler_Hole_pic1.jpg FZX250_Muffler_Hole_pic2.jpg
    Mysterious looking hole that may have been factory produced way-back-when...

    FZX250_Exhaust.Pipe.Bolt.jpg
    Inquisitive as I am, info from the general web says, apparently, some mufflers/exhausts have these weep holes to prevent build-up and wear from corrosion. And I then I find a bolt coming out of the exhaust pipe.

    FZX250_Muffler_Leak_Clear.jpg
    Managed to clear most of that buildup out with a good rev or ten...

    So, here's my take on the matter:
    1. Factory 'bashed', both muffler and exhaust to allow weeping etc.
    2. Carburetors are flooding causing carbon buildup that led to the blockage of the weep hole.
    Anyone, feel free to correct me if this isn't the case, but that hole looks mighty purposeful to me either way and I didn't do it:lolsign: I don't have those tools.

    And the note the bike gives off is a little... 'off' to me.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 16, 2014
  16. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Lots of pipes had 'drain holes' in them from the factory. If it really worries you, put a self tapping screw in with some silicone around it to block the hole.
     
  17. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I'll give it a few days thought, probably being factory and all. I'm likely to leave it as-is -- the build up needed releasing and just have to keep it this way is all.

    I can put up with the deeper 'off' note, sounds a little grunt, though added by the annoyance there's obviously a hole there:lolsign: thanks.
     
  18. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The long weekend was a good opportunity to get the coolant changed, simply for peace of mind... and getting familiar of course :thumb_ups:

    Coolant Flush & Replacement
    I did not expect that removing the coolant bottle from the FZX250 would be such a mammoth task!
    It's only because I had to try every other frigging method, except the correct one... so, I never got it out for the good old once-over, however it was flushed to an acceptable degree at least, eventually.
    Tools:
    Rear Paddock Stand (bike lift)
    8 Litre Oil Drain Dish
    8mm Socket
    3/8" Drive
    Needle nose Pliers
    Anti-Seize Lubricant 28g (for aluminium cylinder head-equipped engines)

    Replacement Products
    2 x Nulon Red Pre-Mix Coolant
    Cleaning and disposal:
    Bottled Water (for flushing and storing discarded coolant)
    Disposable Gloves
    Cleaning Brushes (for where applicable)
    Baby Wipes :idk: they do the job well.

    1. Locating the drain plug is easy
    If you know where to look it's quite obvious, though a little discrete for amateurs like myself.
    Coolant_Drain.Plug.jpg
    8mm socket should do it

    2. Radiator Cap and Coolant Drain Plug
    Remove the starboard side fairing -- Air Scoop Assembly
    Remove the radiator cap and remove the plug to release the coolant
    Coolant_Radiator.jpg Coolant.Drain_pic1.jpg Coolant.Drain_pic2.jpg Coolant.Drain_pic3.jpg
    Note that coolant is a highly toxic substance -- Hazmat not required, common sense recommended ;)

    3. Flush the system and remaining coolant
    Distilled water is best, I used my 3nd-stage-RO (reverse osmosis) water from handy bottles -- almost as good.
    Coolant_Flush.jpg
    Comes out clean, eventually....

    4. Plug it, Fill it
    Anti-Seize Lubricant for the plug
    Coolant_Plug_Antiseize.jpg Coolant_Fill.jpg
    Coolant (ethylene glycol) is toxic, so absorbing such monsantolike awesomeness isn't a smart choice, especially when you have one.

    5. (Attempt to) Remove and Flush the Overflow Reservoir
    Either way, you'll still have to disconnect the hose from the radiator's overflow
    Coolant_Radiator_Hose.jpg Coolant_Tank_pic1.jpg Coolant_Tank_pic2.jpg
    Disconnecting the hose from the reservoir probably isn't a champion idea, the plastic may be fragile so handle with a bit of cheer...

    Keeping it clean
    Brush_Cleaning.jpg
    Using these guys as I continue along, and whatever else is handy. Keeps things half-decent from PO (previous owner) crud.

    Tried to remove the reservoir from the top...
    Battery_Bay.jpg Electrical.Box_pic1.jpg Electrical.Box_pic2.jpg
    nope.... that didn't achieve a thing. The coolant reservoir cannot be removed from here I found.

    Must be accessible the from the starboard side, right?
    Side.Cover.jpg
    The the side covers have one hex (size 5mm), and the other should just 'pop' out -- preferably without the grommet.

    Removed the Regulator...
    Regulator.jpg Brake_Rear_Reservoir.jpg
    Unhitched the Rear Brake Reservoir and finally we are readdy to... to find that all was in vain, once again.

    Likely scenario is that I had the wrong side, so off to the port side we go, no worries, I'll put it all back later -- just need to get this bottle out to give it the-once-over.

    So, I removed the port side-cover, chain guard, and then found that it may be possible to remove the bottle from there only if I remove the chain first :headbang:

    This is a tame pic, compared to the chaos that followed and before littering the area with screws, bolts, and pieces.
    Coolant_Change.jpg
    I should have taken a pic of the aftermath, guess the frantic mode I was in was hurried for time. And I was pushing for time as I had to remain rather sensical going about this. So...

    To get that reservoir tank out I think it seems best to remove the rear wheel, or at least the chain and go the port side which might work. The other ways (my attempts) are likely to damage the bottle if forced too much.

    Coolant_Tank_Flushing_pic1.jpg Coolant_Tank_Flushing_pic2.jpg
    Wham, Bam, Gravity man... Done :cool:

    Had the bolts on the reservoir removed already so a bit of washing around and it's over in no time. I just used water only.

    6. Get it Together and Bleed the Air
    Surprisingly I got all bits and pieces, that I diligently gutted out, back together exactly back how it was... except... always an exception, the plastic cable tie that held the brake reservoir to the frame. No biggie, I replaced with a handy, and sturdy, velcro tie.
    Cable.Ties_Velcro.jpg
    Seems to hold up the Rear Brake Reservoir well -- for the time being at least.

    Bleed
    Ran the engine for a good 20+ minutes at about 2200(if I recall correctly) revs. Not too high or too low.
    Radiator_Burping_pic1.jpg Radiator_Burping_pic2.jpg Radiator_Burping_pic3.jpg
    Eventually it bubbles, spits, and splutters (catching the toxic spill). And a few high revs for a while to measure.

    :neo: Done!

    Not a great shot, but did find a good deal of crud in the tank also... :superman:
    Petrol.Tank_Inside.Crud.jpg
    For another day :cool:
     
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    Last edited: Apr 24, 2014
  19. Zeal4Life

    Zeal4Life What bike would the Joker ride... Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Joined:
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    Gender:
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    Location:
    NSW - Australia
    My Bike:
    1999 Yamaha FZX250 Zeal (3YX2) - FZX299A
    Tail/Brake Light Replacement
    Wasn't sure about the tail light as it had only one brightness whether the brakes are applied or not, but at least it was bright. And so it took awhile to figure out the innards but in the end was done.

    Long story short: found out that the globe is a dual filament type, and the new replacement must be correctly orientated when fitted.

    Tools:
    3/8" Drive Ratchet
    10mm Socket
    150mm No2 Phillips screwdriver

    Replacement Products
    SCA Automotive Globe - 12V, 21/5W Bay15D

    1. Remove the seat
    • 3/8" Drive Ratchet
    • 10mm Socket
    2. Remove the Top Tail Fender
    Fender_Rear_Tail_Top.pic1.jpg Fender_Rear_Tail_Top.pic2.jpg
    • 150mm No2 Phillips screwdriver
    • Two screws
    Then ease it out towards the front of the bike to unhitch and remove.

    3. Remove the Side fenders
    Fender_Rear_Tail_Side_Screws.pic1.jpg Fender_Rear_Tail_Side_Screws.pic2.jpg
    • 4 screws from both sides
    Fender_Rear_Tail_Side_Grommet.pic1.jpg Fender_Rear_Tail_Side_Grommets.jpg
    • 4 grommets from both sides, remove the front before the rear.
    Fender_Rear_Tail_Side.and.Middle.jpg Fender_Rear_Tail_Sides.Middle.jpg
    • Remove one side, then the middle section, then the other side.
    3. Remove the Taillight Cover
    Stop.TailLight.jpg Stop.TailLight_Opened.jpg
    • 2 screws
    :neo: Done!

    This had actually taken me a few free days because of my figuring-out how it all operates:
    Globe_Stop.Tail_Bay15d.12V. 21W.5W.pic1.jpg Globe_Stop.Tail_Bay15d.12V. 21W.5W.pic2.jpg
    • Globes are dual filament. One for Tail and one for braking both inside the globe. Therefore two connections for 21 Watt and 5 Watt
    • Fitment is supposedly BAY15D type, but later found does not prevent incorrect orientation when fitting.
    • Both the hand and foot brake levers have built-in switches to trigger the braking filament(brightest).
    Stop.TailLight_Cord_Assembly.jpg
    Adding to the problem the original globe suddenly stopped working.
    So cleaned the cord assembly with contact cleaner and lubricant... still not working...

    Stop.TailLight._Leads.Switched.jpg
    And without a multimeter I could only go out, buy a bulb, and use that to begin with. Then eventually I found the idea of swapping the yellow and blue leads (21W/5W) which worked! So, then I just had to find the time to check the globe again and found that fitment is not foolproof. :thumb_ups: Easy to bawls if you don't know sweet FA.

    The PO must have had a shorter fuse :lolsign:

    Switch.Block_Left_Hazard.Switch.jpg
    Also, my Hazard switch is a bit funky... PO must have been fooling with it.
    It's off in the on position, and the off position is goes under the switch block! Impossible!
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: May 7, 2014
  20. kiffsta

    kiffsta Administrator Staff Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    My Bike:
    89 GSXR250, 90 CBR250RR Track Bike, 2003 ZXR250 , 2011 Daytona 675
    that's awesome mate, you are becoming our resident Zeal expert :thumb_ups:
     
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