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Discussion in 'New Members Say Gday' started by Ben Jammin’, Jan 9, 2018.
Hi Bob! As my67xr said, I had rust in the inside of the tank, due to the filler cap overflow tube being blocked.
I used the YouTube electrolysis vids to derust the inside of the tank. It worked great and pulled heaps of rust out. However, after going to so much trouble I didn’t want to leave the tank unsealed, so I bought some POR-15 fuel tank sealer.
What a great product that is!
So now a new fuel filter, new fuel pump and new fuel hoses, the rust issue is no more!
Good ole eBay!
Preload adjusters per-chased!
I've ordered my fork seals and dust caps too!
Am I right in thinking that, the higher the viscosity number on the fork oil, the heavier/thicker it is?
If so, how much thicker is advisable?
I changed the fork oil in my FZR250 from 10w to 15w, this has made the front end maybe 15% to 20% stiffer.
The FZR's are known to dive in the front under hard braking, they were made for lightweight japanese lad's i reckon
Correct .... 10w is in the specs and we went 15w also
I’m not very heavy myself, but I did notice the front end was a little soft.
I am 66kg and the front still felt soft on my FZR
I ordered some preload adjuster's for mine the other day too
I'm about the same weight, but I haven't had the 'beast' out for a proper test ride yet!
I got a message today to say my fork seals and dust caps had arrived, so I'll pick them up in the morning and get some 15w fork oil.
I'll let you know how I go with the fork rebuild.
Stupid question but, when the preload adjusters arrive, can they be fitted without stripping the forks again, or will I end up with a face full of springs?
If you raise the front end off the ground, you will release some of the load on the springs, but yes be careful. Stored energy and all that.
The redneck centre stand for working on forks or changing front wheels,etc
I have had my cap's off (one at a time) without raising the front end before, just make sure the bike is leaning the right way when you undo them eg turn the steering to the left to undo the right cap and visa versa.
And make sure you undo the allen head bolt from the top tripple's before you try taking the cap's off otherwise you'll round the alloy 22mm headed fork cap's
It doesn't take much to push the cap down to do them up with the weight of the bike on them still
I dont seem to remember it being possible to do that with any FZRs Ive worked on .... maybe thats why your front is so soft ..... do u have the full size spacer in yours?
Ok, so I didn’t have a tape measure in there when I took the forks apart, however the FZX does have the spacer tubes in them.
I had to get crafty with a threaded rod and an old brass tap insert to get down inside the stanchion to hold the damper rod whilst I undid the 8mm Allen screw at the bottom!
I didn’t know what size it was, so I drilled and tapped a self tapper in to take up the gap! I just kept winding in the screw slowly, until it dropped snug into place.
Now it’s got its new seals and dust caps and 15w oil in. I’ll need to clean the brake pads and disc rotor and retry my blue slip inspection!!!
I didn’t opt for the redneck bike stand as my pipes don’t run centrally under the engine. Instead I strung her up from the garage rafters!
Brake pads are junk once they get any kind of oil on them, they need to be replaced.
I would also take the disc off and soak it in hot water and CT-18 superwash overnight so all the oil becomes water soluble and washes off
I just wash disc pads and disc with some brake cleaner if any brake fluid get's on them.
Acrylic thinners also washes the oil out.
Number 1 cylinder doesn't seem to be firing! Cool header pipe whilst the others are scalding!!!
I was sure it was the rusty tank and fuel pump issue that caused it, before I stripped and cleaned it all, but still No.1 is playing up.
There's fuel in the float bowl, the jets are clear, there's a blue spark at the plug.
What am I missing?
Is there any fuel in number 1 fuel bowl ? undo the drain and check or compare the amount to the number 2 fuel bowl
When you pulled the plug out was it wet with fuel or dry ?
Thanks for the quick response @my67xr
Yep, fuel in No.1 bowl. Earlier I took the carbies off to check if there was a 'last little bit' of debris in the system that I'd missed, maybe blocking the jet???
I undid the drain screw on bowl No.1 and it ran out for 10 seconds or more. Didn't seem to be starved at all.
Didn't touch the others as they seemed to be working ok, so no comparison report unfortunately.
The plug seemed dry...???
Anyway, I just bunged it back together and took it down to the garage for its BlueSlip Inspection. Pulled like a train on 3 cylinders.... Can't wait to see how it goes on 4!