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Project GFS250P Slingshot rework...

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Bab, Oct 13, 2017.

  1. Bab

    Bab Member

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    It was suggested awhile ago (Joker) that I should start a thread to describe some of the work, and procedures I will undertake while attempting to bring this bike back to a running condition. The bike was found abandoned, and apparently not been run for approximately 2 years. My first walk around it showed me it had been down based on the ends of the clutch lever. Apparently no major damage. There was repairs to the aluminum bracket supporting the right side passenger peg, suggesting it might have been dropped on that side as well. Overall the bike looked to be complete with the exception of the plate that covers the battery well, and supports the tank and seat latch. As well there were a few vibro isolation grommets and some fasteners associated with the above plate that had gone astray. It was obvious the battery had been deceased for some time and should of been laid to rest, but fortunately it was suitable to take some measurements off so I could fabricate the missing plate.
    After skulking around the forum, I have arrived at the conclusion we all speak the "Queen's own English" even if it is our interpretation of it. That being said, if I use terms, or slang that needs clarification, I'm not that old and miserable that I can't be approached with questions. We are after all cousins of one kind (2-wheeled) or another, and anything done to make each other's life easier, will be rewarded in some manner or another. I ramble..
    The first thing to do to the "Slingshot / Bandit other than dig around for some history, and facts is to get it off the floor so I can move it around my shop and get it raised where these arthritic bones can work on it comfortably. I had an inexpensive lift

    IMG_20171006_103524.jpg

    I used for a HD Ultraglide, but to incorporate into the use of the Suzuki I needed a cradle built to suspend it firmly on the platform of the lift.
    The cradle was fashioned out of some angle iron salvage from a cast off bed frame (aren't yard sales great?).

    IMG_20171006_103057.jpg

    The cradle was fashioned so that it picked the bike up by supporting it under the frame, and the cross member of the centre stand.

    IMG_20171006_111957.jpg

    (I haven't been able to orient the photos to a working position.) The details of the cradle maybe a topic of its own. Let me know If there is any interest. This brings a question to mind. Is the '93 250 frame equivalent to the '93 400 frame?
    My next effort will be the manufacture of the battery / seat plate.

    Regards...
     
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  2. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Hey Bab, we (Aus and Canada) speak English, it's the Americans who cannot spell. :lolsign:
    The cradle idea is great, better than some that rely on the bike balancing on the trolley.
    Keep up the good work.
     
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  3. Bab

    Bab Member

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    I'm quite excited to find you speak fluent GSF, version #250!!
     
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  4. Bab

    Bab Member

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    My Bike:
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    Since we agree that we speak in tongues recognizable to each other, I'll continue with the manufacture of the "battery plate" that was missing on the Slingshot.
    I began by sketching what I thought I needed and extrapolated dimensions, and approximate locations of the fasteners, tank mounts, and seat latch. The next step was to cut the side out of a cardboard beer case and make a mock up of the plate, and trial fit to check the locations of the hardware. I then found a small piece of 16 gauge steel and began in earnest. I blued the surface with Dykem lay out die (You could use soot from a lamp, or torches by burning rich) so I could transfer the location, and dimensions needed.
    I used my angle grinder, hacksaw, and files to cut the required profile, or blank out of the sheet steel. To form the piece I clamped it in my vice and beat on it with a ball pein hammer. Where the fold would not fit the jaws of the vice properly, a piece of angle iron held in the vice, with the plate clamped to it sufficed. Once the edges were folded down on the ends for the mounting holes, the long dimension was folded to add some strength.
    A trial fit indicated the plate or bracket was too long and would be a major struggle to fit. To correct this I took my plumbing torch and with the bracket in the vice I heated the one end fold and with more noise with the hammer formed the fold a little tighter resulting in shortening the overall length. Now it fits.
    The holes for the hardware was located, drilled, and M6 nuts were tack welded on the underside to accommodate the fasteners. One hole for the seat latch was out of position, so I ground the nut off the back, gob & blobbed welded the hole closed. It then w as cleaned up with the grinder and relocated. Once it was determined everything fit where it should, a coat of paint, and a strip of self adhesive neophrene was installed to help protect the wiring loom which runs underneath. Done!
    The next aspect of the repairs will be the r&r of leaking fork seals.


    IMG_20171013_112959.jpg IMG_20171013_113047.jpg IMG_20171013_113104.jpg IMG_20171014_094940_hdr.jpg IMG_20171014_095042.jpg IMG_20171014_100106.jpg
     
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  5. Bab

    Bab Member

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    The fork seals were leaking profusely when we got the Slingshot. They had been for some time, evident in the stains on the lower fork, and the drips pooling on the floor under the caliper. I cleaned the calliper up to make sure it was not leaking, and the only problem there was the one small rubber boot that protects the one pin had turned to mush. I suspect the continuous oil bath it was getting was the reason.
    The forks were not difficult to remove from the bike. This topic has been beat to death on U-tube, and I won't rehash too much of the process. First of all I disconnected the speedo cable from the back of the speedometer, and snaked it out of the triple clamps and the fender loop. It was wiped down and hung up for storage. Next was the front fender, or mud guard, and it's bracket. The fasteners were put in their respective holes finger tight so they don't go missing. This will make it some what easier to reassemble later (I hope). The front calliper is removed and using a piece of wire I hung it from the frame so that I don't stress the hose and banjo connection. Again all the fasteners where put in their place. I then loosened all the axel clamp bolts, axel and the fork clamps.
    This is where the cradle I built to suspend the bike on my lift begins to shine. I lowered the bike to the lowest position, and for added safety I put a block under the rear tire (tyre) incase the weight reduction on the front would upset the balance of the bike. I removed the axel and front wheel (no surprises) and secured the axel in a bucket for storage. The caps on the top of the forks were loosened but left with lots of thread to ensure the stored energy in the spring and it's hazard is still secured. I tried to loosen the cap screw located at the extreme bottom of the lower fork. It screws into the bottom of the piston, and succeeded with one. It is suggested an impact gun is used to shock the screw against it's "stiction" that is present against the inside of the tube wall in all most of the videos, but I don't have one. Instead I used my 8mm allen wrench with a small cheater on the short end. I gave it a sharp crack with a hammer and then could loosen the screw.
    At his point I loosened the triple clamps and twisted the forks out one at a time. I stood the forks on a rag on the shop floor, put my ratcheting wrench on the cap, put a glove on to capture the cap when the spring ejected it, and removed the cap. The oil gets dumped, and as the components slide out of the tube I placed them on a piece of cardboard to catch and soak the oil up. This keeps it off the concrete, and saves the hassle of cleaning that mess up. At the bench I removed the dust cap, an then the circlip with a small screw driver. Don't scratch the tube!! Now with some care I used the inner fork tube as a slide hammer and with repeated impact bumped out the seal. The balance of the innards were spilled out for inspection and cleaning.
    The one fork gave me an issue with the piston bolt not letting go. It went to the vice. Now I have to deal with the making of the special tool that they talk about in the U-tube vids. looking down from the top of the piston, you see a convoluted pattern in the inside. In my case a 1 inch nut fits nicely inside. It gets welded to the end of a piece of bird feeder stand (never throw anything out!). It gets a quick coat of paint to distinguish between the junk, and the tools. Improvise as you wish.

    IMG_20171018_165809.jpg IMG_20171018_170155.jpg IMG_20171018_170229.jpg IMG_20171018_170240.jpg IMG_20171018_170530.jpg IMG_20171018_170548.jpg IMG_20171018_165748.jpg

    Now with the stubborn fork leg held in the bench vice, using appropriate padding and gentle pressure, I could hold the end of the tool, and work the screw at the other end with the allen wrench. Still lots of oil, so have lots of rags available. While the fork was still captured, the dust cap and clip was removed and the pulling of the seal proceeds. More oil...
    I cleaned up the seals, and based on numbers I found on them (seals K&S 161037 TC4 41 53 8.2, caps NOK BR4935E 20). I have seals ordered.
    The bike is sitting firmly in place in the highest position of my lift with no indication that it wants to go anywhere other than where I intend it to.
    When you look at the bushings for wear, you are looking for a grey coloured (spelling) coating of Teflon. It needs to be uniform all the way around the surface of the piece.
    Now I wait...
     
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    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 19, 2017 at 1:22 PM
  6. Joker

    Joker CLUB250 Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    I think you're doing some great work mate, but have you done any engine work yet? I would be starting there on a bike like this, considering parts and instructions are so hard to find... not trying to be negative but I know first hand you could go to all this effort and end up with a good looking paperweight...
     
  7. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Nice work Babs, had to make a few of those tools myself.
    Good to see your spelling coming along. :lolsign:
     
  8. Bab

    Bab Member

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    Thanks for your alert towards the engine, Joker. I've read your previous comments here and in other posts regarding the parts scarcity. I have taken your word to heart, and I must admit I'm scared green to drop a battery in it and crank it over to see what transpires. The seals for the forks were a necessity, and was a reasonably inexpensive introduction to the sourcing of parts. I've dwelled on this issue of parts and the impact it could have pertaining the motor, and have decided to pull the battery out of my NT and try it in the Slingshot. This should give me an indication as to the condition of the power plant without the expense of a new battery.
    On the topic of parts, your lead to your Russian friends was a great find. The drawings, and parts list is the best and most accurate I've found. I'm hoping I don't need to go to Russia for parts, because as you've said before the cost will be a major factor in how far we can go with this bike.
    Again I thank you for looking over my shoulder as I stumble around this bike, and I do appreciate the time and effort it takes on your end to post your thoughts. With kind regards...Bab
     
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  9. Bab

    Bab Member

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    I don't need spell check, I've got Murdo!!
     
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  10. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Just trying to help you with your 'English' (not Aussie speak). :lolsign:
    Don't worry, I get it wrong sometimes too.
     
  11. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    +1 on this, check the compression and get her running before spending any more time or money, we've all been led astray by our enthusiasm at some stage and its easy to be blinded by a new project.
     
  12. kiffsta

    kiffsta Administrator Staff Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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