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Discussion in 'Other Projects - Other Bikes (non 250's)' started by Joker, Nov 4, 2016.
That happens on ZXRs when the carby boot clamps are not done up & the sync screws hit against them
That's actually a good point @Joker I did notice when I put them on the clamps were in weird places - maybe just check that as well
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LOL no wonder it only happens when the carbies are on the bike... That's awesome I'll check that for sure...
Thanks for the lighbulb!
Ok so that was the problem
Decal kit arrived, few bits to tidy up and clear coat and it's test ride time (in full). Might have to wait until next weekend now though
So she's fully assembled now apart from the fairings and tank cover. Decided to test ride and... fantastic. Runs perfectly, no hesitation through the mid ranges... beautiful. Given it is a warm day perhaps that had an influence on the temperament but I didn't have any trouble at all, just a grin from ear to ear.
So excited to get this one on club plates and onto the road...
In the background I bought this for myself for Chrissy:
I am toying with making it quick disconnect so I can put it on either the fizzer of the suzuki depending on what I am doing. One of the club guys has one on his Z300 and it's really nice quality.
Watch out for those go-pro things, i think they must have an effect your throttle, ive had a few mates lose their licenses just after buying one
There's also been time's when people using a GoPro or similar have been pulled over for speeding or doing something wrong and the footage has been viewed by the police.
And try not to have your speedo showing in the video (should be easy with that style camera)
I tried out another helmet cam a month or so ago, had it mounted to my helmet with the J Hook chin mount.
I went riding and filmed it, got back home and watched it and found the camera angle was set up perfect to show my tripple's and dash gauge's and maybe 1/2 a meter of road in front of my bike.
Yes, these are twin cameras mounted to the bike front and back, I didn't want anything to muck around with on my helmet. It is likely I will find a spot for them that is not intrusive on the fairing somewhere above the dash, so it won't show my speed. Just what is happening behind and in front of me.
Got it today too, super quick delivery.
So... a strange problem.
Left indicator: Indicators flash, dash light flashes
Right indicator: Indicators flash, dash light does not flash
An annoying problem.
Sump plug still bloody drips. Even put a new crush washer on it, any tips? Don't really want to use gasket goo but starting to think it might be the only thing that works.
I luv my fizzer
Maybe best to source another sump. I used to always have them welded and retapped.
Get some yellow or pink thread tape from Bunning's for the sump plug.
Right flasher not working, check the terminal's on the green wire where the dash light's/wiring connect's through to the 9 pin plug of the main harness.
For any oil leak
Step 1: Get everything spotlessly clean
Step 2: Run bike
Step 3: Observe and find the leak, starting at the highest point on the motor
I had a daytona 675r in at work with an oil leak. While there were drips on the sump plug and oil filter, the leak was from the front sump bolts. Put a spanner on them to tighten, I could tighten all 4 of them up with 1 finger on the spanner
Really stupid question but did you check the dash light isn't blown?
Yeh because it flashes with the left hand indicator but not with the right hand indicator. It's a new LED globe, it was working when I first changed it, not sure what happened.
Thread tape is a good idea, funnily enough I didn't think of that. I have some pink tape so might give that a go. cheers for the thoughts.
The heavy rain in Vic this weekend is preventing me from doing the final wash and polish but she's ready to go now. Finally. Hopefully she'll last a few weeks before she breaks something!
Oh man aren't fizzers fun. I put the OEM exhaust on for roadworthy and she's so sensitive it's running worse. Feels sluggish (but not boggy) through the revs and she's much harder to start.
It's hard to tell the cause, the only things that have changed are the weather (potentially 5-10 degrees cooler) and the OEM exhaust. The idle is a bit rougher too, maybe a 250 rpm jump every now and then. I'm not sure if it's running rich, it's hard to see any puffs of smoke when I'm moving and it doesn't appear to do it at idle.
I've done some minor playing with the idle, I'll ride it again a bit later to see if any improvement. Currently idling at around 1500 rpm, which is probably a bit high.
Before, it was puffing out black smoke from running rich and a bit boggy though the mid range. So all the needles were put one up and all the pilots half a turn out. everything was running really well at those settings until now.
If it was running rich and a bit boggy, why richen it up more by raising the needle's and turning the mixture screw's out 1/2 turn?
To lean up the fuel supply during load in the mid to high range the needles went one up. Unfortunately it also meant harder to start so I richened the pilots a little to compensate at starting/idle. It worked really well for the most part but the situation is not what it was (again).
Ok, so you lowered the needle's then (raised the clip into the next higher notch)
Yeh sorry I wasn't clear. moved the clip one up on the needles, hence lowering them.