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Project Linkin bought another ZXR250C

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Linkin, Apr 21, 2017.

  1. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    My Bike:
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    This one I picked up for a kiffsta price :cool:

    It is a 1992 ZXR250 C2, built and imported from Japan. Here it is next to my Malaysian one:

    kT01A5v.jpg

    N0M6paR.jpg

    X3vlmw7.jpg

    Paint job is matt black on the fairings so picks up marks easily... but the tank looks a bit nicer

    68KX7PQ.jpg

    It has the usual wear and tear of an old grey import learner bike - thrashed about with little more than the bare minimum maintenance (or less than that), and any problems are fixed by the most ham-fisted means possible.

    This bike has a bent handlebar, missing mirror bolts, leaky fork seal, missing retention mechanism for the pillion seat, no tool kit, a lithium battery that is too small, aftermarket exhaust that was installed by hercules resulting in a bent flange mount :mad: and no doubt other shite that I have yet to find under the covers...

    AR0GdPa.jpg

    i5hszdX.jpg

    a5pL7o3.jpg

    MJ0mw06.jpg

    But for now, all that and more are the least of my worries with this bike... the showstopper revealed itself after running the bike up for a bit:

    HpCpsbB.jpg

    esAu1U5.jpg

    The selector shaft is leaking pretty badly. As for the cause, the chain seems on the tight side, but not too tight. It is dry and rusty after all.

    In any case, I started the bike and ran it up... a bit smokey, pilots a bit clogged at first but cleared up and idled. Motor sounds good. Carbs appear balanced as throttle response is better than my silver one. Has a hanging idle so probably air leaks to investigate.






    So... now there is the dilemma of what to do with the bike. I could fix the problems and use it as a track bike. I could keep it and pinch parts off it as needed. I could part it out and put cash towards fixing up my silver one... decisions decisions...

    Would like to hear your thoughts concerning the selector shaft, too.
     
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  2. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Fit a new seal and lithium batteries are small.
    Then clean it up and sell it on.
     
  3. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Sounds like a plan. Hopefully I will get away with just a replacement seal :D

    Had a look at the service manual and it doesn't mention any bearing for the selector shaft.
     
  4. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  5. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Selector shafts run in a bush or directly in the crankcase. I have never seen one use a bearing.
     
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  6. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yeah, its not clear though... might be a bearing behind the seal and another on the right hand side past the selector fork bits

    0Xiw9nO.png

    KZtBuvF.png

    92051 in the 2nd pic appears to be the seal

    Should be happy days for me then :thumb_ups:
     
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  7. Joker

    Joker See "about me" for contact details. Contributing Member

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    Fix 'n flip.
     
  8. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    No bearing. I would pull the shaft out, too tricky to get the seal out and in with the shaft in, but that is just my two cents. Grab a new clutch cover gasket before you start.
     
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  9. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Does the shaft run through to the clutch side though? To me it looks like it's contained within the gearbox section of the cases. The diagrams are not to scale with each other. Can the shaft be pulled and replaced without splitting the motor?
     
  10. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    if you're careful you can use self tapping screws into the oil seal to get a hold to extract it - for clearance you may need to make the heads on the screws smaller - put them into a drill and buzz heads with a grinder, otherwise it should be easily accomplished with 2 or 3 screws
     
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  11. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Yes, you need to remove the clutch basket & oil pump shaft to get to the shift shaft, if it cant be pried out externally. Part # 92051-005 common part from Kawasaki
     
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  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Good to know.
     
  13. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Is the shaft bent or is just the seal torn?
     
  14. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Not sure yet... I'll get the bike moved to my work and pull it apart on the weekends there.
     
  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    OK so a little bit of movement on this project. New right handlebar arrived today, fork seals on the way, have 2 clutch gaskets and I ordered 4 gear selector oil seals (part 92051-005) since they were cheap. If anyone needs one, let me know.
     
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  16. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Hi @Linkin Ill grab one of those seals mate, pm me the price & postage.
     
  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I gave this bike some attention today. Topped up the oil, got some fresh fuel plus stabiliser in the tank, and fired it up. Reluctant to start from old fuel, but once the new stuff was flowing it ran well. In fact, it runs better than my silver one. It rattles less, idles better and feels smoother on the handlebars.

    I warmed it up properly and the smoke from the exhaust has mostly cleared. Bike needs a good run to see for sure though, but not before the oil leaks are fixed.
     
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  18. sharky

    sharky Well-Known Member

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    Maybe check the torque settings of the engine mounting bolts on the silver zxr, & if all mounting lugs are in place, the motor I removed recently was done up that tight it was pulling in the frame. Try swapping the carbies over & see if the silver zxr runs any better with the other carbs.
     
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  19. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    That's a good idea as the silver bike has had an engine change in its life. All my tools are at work so I'll have to do it there.

    But after my trouble with the carb boot clamps, no f#$%^ing way I'm taking carbies off again. They need syncing for sure though
     
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  20. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Project saved thanks to @kiffsta giving me a good price on a running motor :)

    j7Y0Pmp.jpg
     
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