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Linkin's 1999 Yamaha YZF-R6

Discussion in 'Other Projects - Other Bikes (non 250's)' started by Linkin, Jan 6, 2016.

  1. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Your wish is my command... Got the go pro and external mic out today, and out to the local "racetrack"

     
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  2. Th3_Huntsman

    Th3_Huntsman Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Well that sounds amazing
     
  3. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Dyno day today. The bloke was extremely helpful and we had a good yarn afterwards. The long and short of it is I need to do the valve clearances ASAP before anything else. AFR is lean at idle and then rich at low throttle, and then all over the place...could be an air leak. I know the carby boots aren't as tight as they could be, getting access is a problem. Power is down 5hp and then 5hp again once it gets warmer.

    Ignore the blue one it wasn't done in top gear.

    [​IMG]

    I also did the brake fluid yesterday and got the kit in the mail to clean and charge the K&N air filter, so that's on the list as well.
     
  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Decided to get stuck into the clearances tonight. Bit tight getting the cam cover off (and back on again, I'm dreading it) even after dropping the radiator out of the way. Clearances are all on the tigher side but still within spec. I'll be changing the shims anyway. Some prior mechanical genius had crossthreaded one of the cam chain tensioner bolts and so it wasn't sealing, leaking oil out slowly and getting road much stuck to it. Lovely...

    I suspect the timing was slightly out, but that may have been my doing when I removed the right side timing cover, there is a pin that holts the intake chain guide in, the pin had pulled out and the guide slipped down.

    I prefer not to work in darkness so have packed up for the night and will continue in the morning.
     
  5. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Clearances all done, recorded on paper and transferred to spreadsheet for my own records. Behold the wonders of Microsoft Excel...

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    All back together and running OK sans breather hose disconnected from airbox, as it still won't run with it in while hot. Charging system needs attention and a new battery is on the list...
     
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  7. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    So far so good, nothing has exploded. Charging the battery helped with the starting, it was pretty flat. Really easy to start cold now... hot is still hit or miss. Sorry I took no pictures of the process... all done over the course of 3 days, having to drag tools in and out all the time and put the bike away.

    New cam chain is always good but not a massive difference like it was with the FZR. There is a light ticking at certain RPM and certain throttle openings that has always been there since I got the bike, and didn't go away after doing the chain. I suspect the cam chain tensioner, but checking it against the service manual, it appears OK. There are also aftermarket manual tensioners available, but personally I have a hard time trusting something like that.

    [​IMG]

    It probably didn't help that a prior mechanical genius had cross-threaded one of the CCT bolts, left it like that, and thus it wasn't sealing the tensioner against the engine... Oil gets forced out and attracts grime! Or worse, dirt and crap getting into the engine! :headbang:

    I got it back in the correct spot... I think I may need to add a washer to that bolt to get the tension correct as there is resistance in the threads.

    Next up will be another dyno run to see if there have been any improvements. Throttle body sync will be done and rejetting if required.

    I also did some reading on why some bikes have coolant running through the carb bodies... mostly for preventing icing and for less temperature variation of the incoming air going through the carbies. However sometimes there can be issues with vapour lock. Engine off and the coolant stops circulating and head accumulates, the fuel in the carbs vapourises and you can't start the bike, then fine once it cools down. If it weren't for having to run the bike with the crankcase breather vented to the atmosphere, I would suspect it would be the primary cause of the bikes hot start problems.

    These carbs have a vent to atmosphere with a vapour separator, would that prevent vapour lock?
     
  8. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Well as you know it did a big end... engine is out and will be pulled apart next week. Have made enquiries on findapart and getting some pricing on a crank and cases if I need them.

    [​IMG]

    Meanwhile I need to replace the return throttle line as the end broke off the carby side of the line. Clean up the frame and rear shock...
     
  9. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I went in to see what the diagnosis is with this engine, and it's not pretty.

    Cylinder 1 liner has a large crack. This was the cause of the the blowby and hard starting when warmed up. They are not sleeves as such but electroplated onto the aluminium bore.

    [​IMG]

    All of the big ends and mains are worn, rod bearing #1 failed. Not surprising considering the liner crack. I expect that a crack like that would be hard on the big end. It had spun the bearing and fused the two bearing halves together.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    1st and 2nd gear engangement dogs are rooted, too far gone to be undercut, and also the shift forks are damaged

    [​IMG]


    Not good at all... I'm considering my options at this point, including breaking the bike down for parts. To fix it I would need a set of cases, probably a crankshaft (mine may be salvageable, fingernail test was a bit iffy but it might come up OK) and at least 1 rod (and a complete set of conrod bolts, as they are stretch bolts). Surprisingly all the pistons are fine.
     
  10. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    That certainly is not a good look!! That crack in no.1 is nasty, I agree with you re.parting out or find another engine to transplant.....might be worthy of consideration.
    Guess it's not the news you were hoping for :mad:
     
  11. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yep, for the moment I'll cancel the rego. If I break the bike for parts I still end up with an empty wallet, and no bike. If I fix the bike, empty wallet, and an engine that might do the same thing.

    So... if anyone is considering buying of these bikes, DON'T! Get an 03 or newer.
     
  12. risky

    risky risky

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    linkin, i would look at a replacement engine or a written off bike.try tassie bike wreckers or our friend kiffsta has a bloodhounds nose and may sniff something out. .
     
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  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Yeah that's the idea, but it comes down to price... running engine on ebay for $1500 - too rich for my taste, and I need to find out how much a 2nd had set of cases and crank will cost me.

    I can always have the gearbox fixed at a later date as well.
     
  14. risky

    risky risky

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    google the yzf-r6 and plenty of motors in the states.look up the auctions in sydney and other places for pickles and mannheim.might pick up a write off. hold the rego as only a small amount comes back.also when you cancel the plate is forfeit and a new plate is 43 bucks.
     
  15. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    put a wanted ad up on Gumtree
     
  16. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    just change the sprocket to one of these ....

    pedals.jpg
     
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  17. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    What year motors will fit?
     
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  18. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    1999-2002

    2003-2005 will fit with some engine mount adapters and the early cylinder head can be bolted on (better lift on the cams) to run carbs, but would need the loom and CDI
     
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