Well today was my last day at TAFE for the year. Since I had completed everything I needed to yesterday, I started stripping down a spare fizzer engine. I got the crankshaft out and have it at home now. Took me a couple of hours to do. Apart from undoing the bolts on both halves, you also have to unbolt the stator from the crank, get a bolt that goes into the stator, and use a rattle gun to get the bolt to force the stator off the crankshaft. Then there are 3 bolts on the stator housing that you undo. Take the housing off and then you can split the cases.
Got spare crank & rods in, new main bearings in, new cam chain in. Hand tightened all the bolts for the cases, I still have to find the proper torque specs for the 250. The 400 has a different number of bolts so it may not add up. Still have to put the new clutch in.
Look in the Zeal resources .... theres a torque list Also from memory the 2KR manual has tightening order etc
Got lucky, the codes for the main bearings meant that I could use the ones I bought. The conrod ones I left alone
Weve just done up an 81 xs 1100, same deal, number codes on the crankcase that correspond to bearings from the factory floor, the factory used colours instead of measurements or numbers for the bearings, crank & rods, there'll be someone in Japan that had sizes for the bearings but that info was locked away a long time ago. There aren't any bearings made to compensate for wear. All the bearings are just for new assembly & the difference between from biggest to smallest is so small its hard to measure. All you can do is see if you can see what colour is on the bearings now, see what the clearance is now (oil gap), have a look at the range of colours, check the number codes on the case that will tell you what colour bearings were used at assembly & then you'll be able to make a reasonable choice from what is available. Also remember that all the bearings probably were a mix of colours during assembly & we could only buy sets of the same colours & they were dear enough. You'll also find there's a single bearing half that is lipped, Thrust bearing, on the crank, I think there's 10 halves which is 9 std halves & 1 thrust/lipped half, they don't come as a set with the thrust bearing, it had to be bought separately. I read a lot of guy's just went Blue as it's the thickest & all was ok, but you can be a little better informed with a bit more study. These FZR 250 engines are very highly strung, everything has to be perfect or there'll be consequences so spend a little bit of time with a pen & paper & you'll get it right. Wonder if the Zeal runs the same bearings, that would make life easier ?
Shove blues in the lot, plastigauge as you go. then find how much you need the crank ground to to make it perfect clearance. if any are excessive tight, go to the next thinner bearing and re-gauge it all again. send away your crank to be ground with the measurements you want and happy days maybe? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I had to mix around a few of the bearings, some tighter than others in certain spots, but eventually I got it all sorted with the appropriate clearances, thanks the all the crank bearings being the same (stamped on the crank) Today I fitted the new clutch. For anyone else having trouble with it, this is the order that everything goes in. The steel clutch plates have a rounded side and a sharp side. The rounded sides face the transmission Friction plate Steel clutch plate Skinny friction plate Wavy steel spring Steel clutch plate Friction plate Steel clutch plate Friction plate etc Now, the cap that holds the springs in can be tricky if you don't pay attention. It will only go on properly one way, due to it being splined. You will know it's in properly when it contacts the friction plate and there is no gap. You shouldn't have to compress the new springs to thread in the bolts that hold them in. If you do, the spring holder bit is not in the right spot. Refitted the water pump, starter gear and starter motor plus their covers with new gaskets where applicable. Got the sump back on with the original gasket as they have been discontinued. Just about to clean out the bores with CT18 and hot water... no pictures today tough, just getting stuck into it.
they sell alright quality gasket kits on aliexpress, think it has head, base, sump and clutch gasket in the kit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
We tried a cylinder head and base gasket from ali express. The base gasket was made from asbestos according to the packaging. The head gasket that came with it did not fit properly, where the OEM one did. I'll stick with the OEM gaskets as far as the top end goes.
Dam I'll remember that for the head gasket, guess I'll be using the kit I bought as templates to make my own. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Test fitment of new fairings. Fitment could be better, the holes aren't perfect, but they go on alright. I think the original coloured fuel tank is beyond saving. Rusty innards, silicon repair on the outside... I'll just have the blue one repainted I think.
Seen some China piston kits on eBay. Presumably from the same source as yours. Tempting for the money. Did you measure them? Same as standard? The other week I had to bore 0.015mm under nominal to achieve the clearance spec with a Wiseco.