NSW MC22 CBR250RR in Sydney NSW ( now a ZXR250)

https://www.facebook.com/groups/317873529173/ found it for u =p

 

Its called cbr250rr riders

 

Half the time it's a joke, don't trust the advice on there, only on here

 

Without going overboard on the things you can check, here it goes.

Rust: (on petrol tank, drive chain, bottom of exhaust, screws ect ect ect)

Signs of crashes: scratches on engine cover, at the bottom of the forks, foot pegs, handlebars, scratches on exhaust ect

Make sure it rides straight: You would have to ride it, but keep the bike up straight sit up straight and see if it goes straight and doesn't curve off to the left or right ect. You can also briefly take your hands of the handle bars to check if it rides straight.

Engine: Make sure there is no funny noises, by funny I mean rattles, inconsistency in the idle, strange sounds when its trying to start up and that it can rev to the limit lol (although take it for a ride and do that without the seller around), only reason is if it cant rev to the red line there is SO many different problems it could have and you might not want to stuff around trying to figure out if it has an air leak or if they changed the jets or the carbs are dirty ect ect ect ect.

Clutch: fairly easy to check, if you put it in a high gear and try hammer it at a slow speed, if it slips its bad or not adjusted correct. Also check if there is problems or have trouble getting it to go into neutral.

Brakes: check the brake pads to see if they have much bite left, quick visual inspection of the rotors.
Try use the brakes if they feel good and work okay they are probably fine lol

Chain and sprockets: 1 Inch play up and down at the bottom of the chain, no rust, bad sprockets have nasty sharp looking teeth like shark teeth, a good sprocket has a flat tip on the top. Odds are if the rear sprocket is bad, so is the front and vice versa.

Check all controls are functioning: horn, indicators, lights, switches ect

Suspension: Push it up and down at the handle bars, it should be stiff and spring back into the normal spot pretty quick, if it feels gummy or it just bounces up and down like nothing it will ride like a boat. A visual inspection for fork oil or busted seals doesn't hurt.

Tyres: apart from the grip, a good portion of my choice in bike is based on the brand and model of tyre, it depends what your looking for but Rosso II on m22's is good, Bridgestone battle axe varient on zxr250 is probably what you should expect to find.

That's pretty much the guts of it, don't trust anything seller is saying and go off the facts of what you can visually see and check.
Other people could add or disagree to certain things I have said but this information is probably better than nothing.

 

problem with damus' post is the bike is over 20 years old, make sure it runs OK the rest is fixable. top end noise and carby's will be the things to look for.

if the bike was on 08 model i would look at all those things.

 

Ignore odo on these bikes yes same as cbr.

 

Yep, most have been wound back, make sure you see the bike start cold, check the engine side cover with the back of your hand, listen for cam chain noises, take it for a ride, you will soon work out what's good and bad on it.

 

hes saying for heat to make sure its a cold start
(i think)

 

There's a plate on the frame that will tell you what year it really is.
If its post 94 it will be slower.

 

Similar.
People say you wont notice a difference but I assure you I would and I wouldn't get one that's post 1994.
But each to their own.

 

In my opinion, I would be less worried about what year model produces the most power and concentrate more on the condition of the bike and the specific features of different models you like the most.

You could get 2 bikes, one a MC19 and then another a Post 94 MC22. Sure the MC19 on paper has 5 more HP but it may have been thrashed for another 5+ years as well. Also I have not ridden one, but apparently the restricted models help make up for the power drop with a better/more practical torque curve.

End of the day it's going to be quicker than a new 250 regardless.

 

I wouldn't mind hearing someones opinion that has ridden a pre and post 5ps change mc22.
My guess is it would ride like disappointment.
I know that my restricted across once was faster than the ex250 ninja before the timing chain got really bad, but compared to my mc22 woah, world of different apart.