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Project My '90 FZR250 3LN3

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by my67xr, Jun 19, 2016.

  1. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    My Bike:
    Yamaha's, FZR250 3LN3 1990, XT250TS 57R 1986, IT200L 43G 1984
    So i have had this bike about 3 week's now, and have been slowly getting through a few small problem's with it.
    I've ordered a new windscreen for it to replace the cracked screen ex china, should be here soon.

    I had to pull the ignition switch out and grease up the steering lock rod so it could be locked.
    And i punched in some marking's for the key while it was out.

    Horn didn't work, i tried adjusting it but couldn't get a peep out of it so i pulled it apart and the internal's were rusted up, i ended up borrowing the horn of my '85 IT200L for the time being.
    Will have to find a decent 12v low tone horn for the FZR.

    Bought a new battery for it and fitted that (didn't come with a battery)

    The FZR was hard to start from cold so i thought i'd check the carby's out, found a heap of red dirt sitting in the bottom of the fuel bowl's.
    Grit blasted the bowl's inside and out and refitted them (will bead blast them when i change the grit for glass bead's when i empty my blasting cabinet next)
    Got it back together and was still hard to start so a couple of day's later i took the carby's off and gave them a better clean out including removing the jet's and jet tower's, slide's and needle's etc and gave it all a good blow out with compressed air.
    Found someone had swapped the main jet's over between carby 3 and 4 so swapped them back into the right carb's again.
    Pilot jet's are #10, Start jet's are #42.5, main jet's are 97.5 on the outer's and 100 on the inner's
    Needle clip's in the centre slot's and mixture screw's are all at 4 turn's out atm.
    (Waiting for my Infared Pyrometer to arrive to set them up spot on)

    The standard reg/rect was a bit iffy (had a few blackend bulb's) the battery would sit a 12v at idle, and rise to about 12.5v @ 5000 rpm.
    I found a post here re upgrading the reg/rect, so i lengthened the wiring to mount the R6 reg/rect up off the left side of the pillion seat under the fairing
    The battery negative cable felt pretty hard so i replaced the earth lead with some 8 gauge ofc with new terminal's.
    Started the bike after the reg was fitted and wiring done, and it now idle's at 12.6v and peak's at 14.2v @ 4000rpm's.

    I also pulled the ignition coil's off the mounting bracket cleaned up the light surface rust on the coil end plate's and smeared them with dielectric grease to stop it from coming back.
    Seem's to have helped the spark a bit as when i was trying to start it before it would start on 3 then all 4 would fire after a couple of second's

    Today i dropped the exhaust off and cleaned it up in my blasting cabinet only to have my compressor play up half way through.
    Ended up hooking up my small compressor and finished the blasting but took a fair bit more time to do.
    Going by the very fine/light spot's of rust i'm guessing that the pipe's are magnetic stainless ?
    I was looking at the weld's inside the pipe's at the flange and thought i may as well grind them down a bit to help out the exhaust flow.
    After blasting them i gave the pipe's a coat of high temp Duplicolour silver
    Checked out the EXUP and found it was all good, no play in the butterfly and cable's didn't need adjusting



    Here is the bike after my first outing on it,
    i took it out for a ride about and got about 20 min's from home and the sky's opened up, so i turned around and headed home in the pouring rain.
    I had my Dririder jacket on with my Draggin pant's, MX helmet and goggle's and MX glove's so i got a bit wet.
    Rear end slipped a few's time's on the slick road's.

    I have only taken it out 4 time's so far, couple of time's during the day and a couple of time's at night.
    I'm starting to get used to the bike a bit more now, pushing the left bar to turn left, and the right bar to turn right is a lot different to riding dirt bike's.
    And having to keep the rev's up above 5000 too, i'm not used to that (tuning?)

    On my last ride i was on my way home at night when i come around a roundabout and accelerated away, i saw a branch and leave's in the gutter up ahead, as i got close the branch turned around and looked at me, then decided it wanted to cross the road in front of me, it was big fat a koala !! lol
    Had to swerve a bit to go around him but it was all good.

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  2. Grasshopper

    Grasshopper Well-Known Member Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Hey, that looks like a really nice FZR :thumb_ups:
     
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  3. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Try setting the pilots to 3 turns out each, 4 is a bit rich. I bet those airbox boots have gone rock solid as well. New ones are only about 10 bucks each, and they make a massive difference in the performance. The part number is 1HX-14453-00 x4. Order from your Yamaha dealer. If they ask what bike it's for, tell them its a Zeal (it also uses these boots), as dealers can get farts in their head about grey import bikes and won't want to deal with you.

    Also change that fuel filter, looks like an original. After 30 years it will need replacing :thumb_ups:


    Like the R1/4 decal, haven't seen that before :prankster:
     
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  4. Joker

    Joker CLUB250 Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Welcome to the fizzer fun mate. You'll learn to love those carbies.

    What fuel filter do you use to replace the OEM one @Linkin? I should probably do that at some stage haha...

    Second that comment about 4 turns out... be a bit rich.

    You can buy a horn from any bike dealer, will set you back $10-$15 that's what I did works a treat and isn't one of those crappy chinese ones (probably still chinese but a little less crap). A lot of the screens from china will fit the 3LN1 but not the 3LN3 so don't be surprised if it doesn't fit properly.
     
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  5. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    I just use these from supercheap auto. Tried ryco ones etc but I could never get fuel to flow through them.
     
  6. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Thank's,
    I have seen the aftermarket filter's for $7 basically the same shape as the genuine one's
    I washed mine out then blew it out with the compressor when i did the fuel bowl's but it will be replaced next week along with the fuel hose (ran out of cash last week, lol)
    The bike struggle's to start with the mixture screw's at 3 turn's out, at 4 turn's it start's and idle's smooth pretty much straight away.
    Mixture screw base line setting i saw somewhere for the 3LN3 is 3 - 3.5 turn's out ?
     
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  7. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    It varies, but with the airbox not sealed, the bike will not run properly. Once you replace the airbox seals, try adjusting them again
     
  8. Joker

    Joker CLUB250 Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Have you physically cleared your jets? compressed air may not do it properly. 3 turns out is sorta the benchmark, but depending on where your bike is at you will need to compensate a little but 4 turns sounds like a lot of compensating.

    Have you done a compression test? That may be the other area (ie valve clearances) that you are compensating for with a rich mixture.
     
  9. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    My Bike:
    Yamaha's, FZR250 3LN3 1990, XT250TS 57R 1986, IT200L 43G 1984
    Yeah they are all open and clean.
    I had to poke a single strand of copper wire through the pilot's as my smallest micro drill is .3mm (3x too big), and a strand of stainless wire from my fine wire brush wouldn't go through either ( .13mm)
    No varnish/gum came out any of the jet's.
    When i had the carby's off i also removed the rubber intake manifold's off the head, i opened them up a touch to match the port's on the head, the lip's were pretty bad and i ended up taking between 1mm and 2mm off each one, even cleaned up and smoothed out the vacuum ports' raised casting burr's on the lower section of the manifold's and one blanking bolt was poking out into the runner as well

    I haven't done a compression test yet as i need to make a fitting to screw in the spark plug hole, my Ryco set doesn't have one small enough for the FZR

    Valve/rocker clearance's will be done soon, i must remember to check the shim pricing when i'm down the bike shop next
    Mixture's are a touch rich atm, i just started the bike then , it's 10° C here, and it started and ran for about 20 second's without any choke.
    I only needed to move the choke about 3mm to keep the bike running

    Will look at the air boot's today if i get a chance, might just run a bead of Urethane around each to make sure they're sealed for the moment.

    My wife is still spewing that i had to buy a new road bike helmet to ride the FZR, all these extra cost's !! lol :(
    When i told her that i'd bought a new regulator, she said so we've bought a lemon ?
    They never seem to learn mechanical stuff need's maintenance or it'll end up costing way more in the long run :headbang:
    Think my wifey should have worked that out a lot sooner, there's currently 10 bike's in my shed....
    With the windscreen if it need's modding that's fine i'm a custom fabricator
    I might even pick up some Lexan and have a go at making my own windscreen too, i have some ally sheet here so i can make up a mould to use when i heat it and let it droop over

    Cheer's
     
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  10. kiffsta

    kiffsta Administrator Staff Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    nice bike mate, took me a while to get the r 1/4 sticker
     
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  11. Joker

    Joker CLUB250 Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Let me know what shims you need if any I have a bag of them.
     
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  12. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Thank's,
    lol yeah i like it too, who ever made it didn't get the slash central though.
    The bike came with a few extra sticker's on it, heap's of little bullet hole's and a couple of naked ladies holding checkered flag's up behind the front indicator's.

    You can just see one of the lady's behind my tie down here




    I have taken the tank off this morning and removed the airbox lid and filter.
    There were a few gap's of 2mm - 3mm around the carb/airbox boot's so i've sealed them up with Polyurethane.
    It'll be cured enough to use in a couple of hour's, and 90% cured in a day, lucky it's moisture/air cured as it's climbed up to 15° C now.
    Sealing them should get me by for a while, i might get the chance to play around with the mixture's again this arvo sometime.

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  13. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    The Urethane has cured enough now to hold the air box down firm, filter is back in and the top is on the box again
    Just warmed up the bike and gave it a couple of blip rev's, the idle drop's back down low and slowly climb's so the mixture's are a bit rich.
    I've adjusted them back to 3¼ turn's out and it seem's pretty happy there, just need to put the tank back on and take it for a ride now

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  14. Joker

    Joker CLUB250 Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Sounds a bit happier at 31/4 good work.

    Sure you want to seal those boots down? With fizzers you have to love your carbies... loving them means getting to them a lot haha
     
  15. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah, you can still undo the clamp's on the intake side of the carby's easy enough, then you can take the box with boot's connected off as one

    I replaced the fuel hose from filter to tap, now the tap is leaking where the barb is pushed into the tap
     
  16. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Common problem. I've used rapidfix to seal one in the past (2 part epoxy, power and resin), a similar product that's also fuel resistant should work.
     
  17. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I'll probably just use some devcon to seal up the outlet on the tap.

    I picked up an XJ650 1980-1983 helmet lock from the wrecker's the other day and was hoping i could have it rekeyed and have the barrel swapped into my seat/rear compartment lock which where it was missing
    This morning i cut the helmet lock open and removed the barrel, then pulled all the wafer's out and swapped them around to suit my ignition key
    I fitted the barrel into my seat lock and it's now working like it should
    Also found another seat lock that may be interchangeable, the one used on the Yamaha Jog CY50 look's the same


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  18. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Took the bike for a ride last night, did another 60km's, carb's seem pretty close to spot on
    I still need to get used to this clutch and throttle, made the rev's flare a bit on a few gear change's lol

    Took the front headlight/windscreen fairing off today and replaced the stock dash bulb's with some blue COB led's in the dash,
    For future reference the dash gauge's take's 3x T10 and 1x T5 bulb
    And 4x T10 's for the Oil, Neutral, Indicator, High Beam warning light's

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    Can't see it too well in the pic's but they are a lot brighter than the original incandescant bulb's

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  19. Joker

    Joker CLUB250 Premium Member Contributing Member

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    For the record both fuel taps I have leak out that right angled piece that goes to the filter. I used JB weld to fix one in permanently rather than muck around and find an O-ring - worked perfectly.
     
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  20. my67xr

    my67xr Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Done another 155km's riding the other day went up through the hill's, filled the tank before i left and topped it up when i got back and it used $6 worth of petrol, it's using a little more than it should.
    Bike went pretty well, felt ok except for some of the sharper corner's, i could feel the back tyre was a bit funny probably due to it being the next size up from standard.
    Priced a new rear tyre at the local tyre joint, Pirelli Sport Demon 130/70/17 62H will cost me $170 fitted and balanced so i reckon i'll go with them and replace the front tyre with the Pirelli Sport Demon 100/80/17 52H too when i get some spare cash

    sportdemon-300x300.jpg

    I picked up some Threebond Engine Conditioner today, i didn't realise it was in a 240ml can !
    Think i'll stick with my Yamalube Carburetor Cleaner Dip from now on, at least you get 946ml's for twice the price of the Threebond (trade price) and you can dilute the Yamalube dip too.

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    Rode the bike the other night and found that the blue led's aren't too bright so swapped them for white's, they're a lot better
    The fascia dial's are a bit yellowed i think, but i'm happy with the brighter white led lighting now 20160626_184441.jpg
     
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