Project My '90 FZR250 3LN3

Yeah i can do that, the right fairing has a decent 100mm long crack and is missing a 50mm x 15mm section
Should be able to do it early next week

 

Yeah that's pretty easy, my wife think's i'm simple

Picked up some supply's at a good price today, they were clearing out some old stock's
Plastic Adhesion Primer, Plastic Primer, Etch Primer, 2x Primer Surfacer all for $2 a can at my local Paint Supply's place
Polyester Filler (semi flexible) to fill any low's left in the repair's, $8
And a 4 litre 2k Express Clear kit (high solid's clear and Hardener) with 1L of reducer for $34 the lot

 

Lol,
I'll only use the plastic primer over the repair's, then the 2K clear over the top as a final coat, the rest of the paint i bought cause it was cheap and i'm alway's painting something
The Plastic Adhesion Primer is for new plastic's when you want to paint it
The Etch primer is a key coating for use on bare metal's to provide rust and corrosion resistance and help's to give the primer or top coat something solid to stick to
My own car (1967 XR Fairmont) is painted without using a primer, just etch primer, then base coat colour, then clear, and there's no way you can tell by the final finish.
And the Surface Primer is used for slight surface building, and priming painted and etch primed metal or plastic's when you have a slightly lower surface from sanding/blending paint edge's etc

Painting is all about preparation, and making sure each step is done properly with out trying to fast track it or cheat by using primer filler's etc

You can get a High Build Primer/Filler which is used for any bigger surface impefection's including filling low's, filling chip's etc
But you are best off fixing these type of impefection's before you prime as it can shrink back and cause it mark's once the paint has dried
When you paint something the mixed paint contain's thinner's or reducer, this is mixed with the paint to thin the paint / reduce the viscosity and make it easier to spray and give you a smoother finish
As the paint start's to dry the thinner's/reducer evaporate's and the paint thickness will reduce
If you have filled a scratch with primer, let it dry then rub it back smooth, when you top coat it some of the thinner's will soak into the primer and sort of puff it up a little, the area that is thick will shrink back more when it dries causing 'Shrink Back mark's, they sort of look like little puddle's and line's

 

These are the cracks/damage i'll be repairing
In the 3rd pic you can see where Yamaha got the colour code of Black/Blue from, Black base coat with Blue Pearl and clear over the top
Someone has had a go at repairing this damage previously, they've used fibreglass matting then put a coat of resin over the top.
The fibreglass doesn't stick to the ABS too well, i doubt they even scuffed the ABS with 36 grit paper to help it bond.
You can see a couple of the scratch's on the black rear section of the tank too that i mentioned earlier

 

Picked up a piece of scrap black ABS from a Plastic Fabricator's shop this afternoon to use when fixing my fairing (no charge)
I also called into another 2 Plastic's shop's looking for Acrylic cement to repair windscreen crack's.
I bought some cement and an applicator syringe so i can have a go at repairing my screen, the salesman also gave me some scrap acrylic to practice on

 

Yeah i'll post the pic's there too.
The ABS sheet is to repair the missing triangular section, 80mm x 20mm x 80mm, the ABS rod's are for repairing the crack's
Filling the triangular section with the rod's would make an untidy repair and make it more work to finish compared to the sheet

 

Got the rocker cover painted over the weekend, so now when i'm ready to check the valve clearance's i can fit the blue cover on



My new reflective stripe's arrived today
I need to take the second row of checker's off the fairing lower too

 

Here's a pic in the day time,
I'm thinking i might customize the reflective stripe's to make them look a bit better, not sure when though

 

Zip tie's are usually made of Polyethylene (PE) or Polypropylene (PP)so either won't stick or melt into the ABS fairing's, but they should work on MX bike plastic's
Did you see my ABS plastic welding thread ?
http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...abs-fairings-plastic-welding.8890/#post-91477

My bike is missing both the front lug's on the rear side fairing's that push into the rubber's on the lower rear of the tank.
I have just drilled a hole temporarily and used an under fender trim Scrivet type clip to hold the fairing's to the tank.
I need to make a mould and make some new lug's to weld on

Pm me your address, i'll send you an ABS filler rod

 

Yeah they're from Bunning's,
1 200mm rod did that whole repair on my fairing, i still have a heap left from that pack

You could use the rod's to spin/friction weld the lug's back on too if you have a dremel or similar
Think the rod's might need to be a bit thinner though, my Dremel take's up to a 3mm diameter bit
http://hackaday.com/2012/12/31/make-your-own-plastic-friction-welder/