Hey fellas, Just got my license a little over 2 months ago and picked up my Across a little over 1 month ago. A pic to start with... It has nearly 4,400klm on it (that's not a typo), from the info I could get when i registered it, it was last registered in 2001 when it also had an economic write off (was apparently dropped). It eventually ended up in the hands of the person I bought it from who replaced the bits that were damaged and whom I bought it form for $2000. I have done some work to it, rear tyre, front brakes, oil changes etc... I still have to do the fork seals as they are totally shagged but a couple of other things were bought to my attention last night when a mate gave it a good looking over (who also owned one of these for a couple of years, near rebuilding it in the process). It also veers to the right with no hands on the bars, I am assuming it's a bent frame. Engine wise, it seems nice and tight (as it should be) but does have it's faults. A few flat spots getting up to 8,000rpm and once it hits 12,500-13,000, it just dies. Also when it gets hot, there is no power down low at all (if on an incline can make it hard to get moving, needs a lot of RPM) Also when it's hot it idles around 3,000-4,000 rpm. The clutch is also a little dodgy I think, again when it's hot it feels like you can't slip it/let it out slowly and just grabs (this combined with no power when hot makes it impossible to get going, will just stall) and the lever gets all floppy when it's hot aswell. Cheers, Brendan
Very nice example! From the sounds of those symptoms it probably just needs a carb balance, and the throttle slide holders replaced just for good measure
ha ha desmo, beat me too it, as for pulling left, just check its not your forks.. remove the bottom fairing, jack the bike up so the front wheel is just off the ground , undo the bolts on your triple tree on one side only and try and turn the fork leg while still in the triple tree, if it turns freely then its fine, repeat other side , if it wont turn freely then you may have have a bent fork tube... cheaper fix than a bent frame welcome to the forum :Thumbs_up:
Cheers fellas. Thanks for the advice will check it all out when I get the chance to. I'm really hoping it's something as simple as that, if it's a bent frame, I'm not sure if I'll keep it and put up with it or sell it and get something else.
Had a look at a couple of things today... Looks good inside the top of the carbies, the slides looked alright to me (although I didnt take them out, but appeared to be fine), the black bodies also looked brand new. So unless they were recently replaced, I'm assuming the 4,400klm is completely legit. However, I believe my problems are electrical, it is now blowing black smoke, and smells of unburnt fuel. The idle also will not sit properly at one spot. The plugs colour looked fine, but I think could do with a replacement anyway. The lead to #1 is pretty much stuffed, fell apart in my hand as I took it off, only a couple of corroded strands making contact. Anyone know where I can get a new set of plugs?
Get the plugs from any bike shop or supercrap or any auto parts store ..... find out what is recommended for the bike and dont rely on whats in it now. If 1 lead is stuffed then replace them all. Black smoke and unburnt fuel means its running rich > carbys/choke Hows the air filter? Sync the carbs ....!
Hey Shimmy Re. your plugs, try www.ngk.com.au and follow the prompts. If you think it's not your carbs, pay attention to the choke. A necessary evil but can cause problems. GreyImports is on the money, check the air cleaner. Remember, the better they breath, the better they run. Good luck Phil
Thanks for the replies fellas, I made a typo in my last post, I was wondering where to get leads, not plugs, sorry. I did fiddle with the carbs today though, leaned them out a bit and did virtually stop almost all of the black smoke. The flat spots are now also a fair bit smoother, still there but more ridable now. Also when held at a constant rpm, it doesn't sound smooth. Also was able to get it above 15k rpm for the first time too, took it to 17k a couple of times. Air filter is almost like new. internal upper carbs also look like new (slides and the black body bits, which I've seen worn down to a taper point from another across). I will see if I can get it tuned and balanced sometime this or next week. Still keen to look at replacing the leads though, although resistance is between 11-12 ohms. Will get a set of feeler gauges soon too and make sure the plugs are set right (I had #1 and #4 out today and both looked pretty good, were not wet or white.
leads for the GSX250F are easy obtainable. you make them yourself. from memory it was 5 mm lead cable you want. your motorcycle shop will have it. i bought some from a local shop for $8 per meter, but you can buy it from ebay from the UK cheaper though. the leads screw in to the CDI and the plug caps. its a bit wierd, i have never seen anything like it till i bought my across. buy about 2 meters of lead and you will have abit spare its called 5mm ignition lead cable. a word of advise. dont buy the single core cable. get the multicore cable. my leads were shot when i bought mine cos the wire inside was broken but no marks on the insulation on the outside. gave me intermittant running on 2 cylinders and was interesting to fault find as for plugs for the GSX250F, buy them from supercheap auto, they have them in a cabinet there with the rest of the plugs, about $5 each, while there, buy yourself an oil filter as well they have them too for about $16, its made by "vesrah" part number is SF-3004-2 and they have them instock at supercheap auto
Thanks for that mate, I'll get onto that tomorrow, gotta get a new tyre put on, noticed my front one seems to be either cut or delaminating (or part of both). I was thinking it would be a whole new lead not just a replaceable part. But yeah, mine is the same, the wire inside is breaking up/corroding. I'm hoping the rough sound is an ignition problem, something nice and simple, although the carbs need a decent tune and balance. I have already replaced the oil filter and oil, got some Motul 5100 10-40 in it. Will probably get them to check out why it pulls to the right while its in aswell, really hoping its a simply thing, same as the other issues. If I have to spend any considerable amount of money on it to bring it back up to spec, I'll probably sell it or wreck it (will most likely wreck if it's found unsafe).
if you want to strip the carbies and clean them up, soak them in "simple green" you can buy it from bunnings.its great for cleaning all sorts of stuff including bbq's and radio controled cars etc simple green all purpose cleaner is what you want http://www.simplegreen.com/home.php dont dilute it, just put the needles etc straight in to it and if there is rubber o-rings etc, it will not affect those, its about $6 per bottle now days. about a year ago it was double that
I never would have thought to use simple green, lol, I do already use it on my RC stuff. Although I only have the diluted spray bottle of it, couldnt find the concentrate (from bunnings), although I've been told where to find it since.
Booked me bike in for a new front tyre on tuesday and asked about it pulling to the right and they reckon it could be an old/unbalanced tyre. Hopefully it's that simple.
simple green is magic for all kids of stuff. works a treat on the guts of carbies without the fear of it destroying parts use it with some kerosene as a multipurpose degreaser on the bike, it will get rid of all sorts of crud fairly easily and not too expensive
Just remembered I posted on here, lol. Well, I got the new tyre on (although a little fiasco with them putting an Arrowmax on, they didnt order the Sport Demon, had to put up with it for another day). It did solve part of the pulling problem, it doesnt pull as hard and seems more random now. I'm onto nearly 5,400 klm on the clock now and want to take it off the road for a little while to work it over a bit. Made a little list last night of the things I want to do and things that it need. Fork Seals Head stock bearing Chain ? Sprokets? rear good (49t) front brake line (Hel braided) tune and balance valve adjustment fuel filter clutch adjustment Clutch lever bolt Ignition lead Spark plugs Clutch cable Exhaust bolts Coolant bend dash back find out why it pulls right neutral light side stand switch head bolts fuel hose radiator hose air cleaner (seems good) deglaze front brake clean front caliper fairing bolts paint carbon indicators clean/rebuild carbs It's going to be a little painful taking it off the road (only way of getting around withing depending on others) but it's gotta be done, I don't want to rape it. Also I want it done before summer really sets in, so I know the bike is in good condition for track days and group rides with mates. Still need to buy a couple of tools, including a torque wrench, which I'm trying to score a Warren and Brown cheaply off ebay.
Good luck with fixing up the bike it looks like a very complete list you have there and that's a great way to start off. Keep an eye on the autoshpos as well as tools are regularly on sale and you can get some good buys there as well also if there is a large markets there maybe a place that sells the same tools you can get on eBay at good prices as well.
Haha, thanks, shouldnt have too many troubles I dont think. Thanks for the tip, I actually forgot about the ones I was watching on ebay and a couple of them went pretty cheap (less than $100, which I would have been happy to pay and then get calibrated), so I might still keep an eye on there or see if I can hire one for a weekend. I got started on the tear down this afternoon though. Got all the fairings off, front brake caliper is off, waiting on the rebuilt kit to come through for that and I sent off the original brake line to HEL to get a braided one made up. I should have made a start on getting the forks off but got side tracked with trying to figure out the neutral/side stand switch and neutral light. Ignition leads and spark plugs are on the way (got a set of those split fire plugs to see how they go, only out $20 if they are **** or something). Both sprokets look pretty good I have the head stem bearing, will replace that myself but the forks I'm not sure if I will redo or take them into a local bike shop and get them to do it (dont really have the tools for it). Got the dash straight, was just tweaked a bit. Going to order a K&N air filter soon. I am no seriously doubting its low klm, although it hadnt been ridden for a long time before I got it, I'm thinking it was ridden a lot during it's time on the road. The amount of grime and sludge build up is too much and a few things here and there, bent, miss matched, scratched and gouged, just seems too much for such a low klm bike.
Well to update the list... Done Head stock bearing - old ones were stuffed front brake line - HEL braided Sprokets - both good Clutch lever bolt slop/play, used washer - still has vertical play bend dash back find out why it pulls right - Head stem bearing neutral light Done - missing spring loaded contact rod sidestand switch done - nothing wrong with it, neutral switch was shorted In progress Fork Seals - can't get the lower bolt undone, taking to the shop. clutch adjustment - doesn't disengage 100% Ignition lead - multi core Spark plugs - Split fire plugs rebuild front caliper - ready for new parts, waiting on parts deglaze front brake - pads done Havnt started. Chain - need confirmation to condition reserve fuel light - doesn't come one when it hits reserve move slides/tune and balance - lean it out and balance valve clearence, Coolant, torque head bolts, Inspect cam chain tensioner - do all at once torque Exhaust bolts gear shift lever, straighten and adjust - slightly bent from drop by previous owner, lever needs lowering (too high for me). upgrade headlight - can it be done? fuel hose - appears to be good, need to confirm fuel filter radiator hose - appears to be good, need to confirm air cleaner - appears to be alright but will replace with K&N fairing bolts - need to source missing bolts paint carbon indicators - rear aftermarket indicators have a carbon fibre look, need to get rid of the gayness clean/rebuild carbs - should not need a rebuild, but could possibly do with a clean. New right hand switch block or find a way to remove twisting play. How it looked this morning How it looked tonight, forks are only in it so I could do up the upper tree.