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My '91 Suzuki Across

Discussion in 'Suzuki 250cc In-line 4's' started by Shimmy, Oct 15, 2012.

  1. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    awesome stuff. thanks for the update
     
  2. Shimmy

    Shimmy Active Member Premium Member

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    No worries mate, kinda wishing I did a more step by step thing now.


    A bit of bad news though, it turns out my forks are bent.
    I took them around to a few local shops to see if they would undo and do them up (just 2 bolts), but none would, too tight for time apparently.

    So when I got home I had to put them on anyway to move the bike out of the way (was partly blocking the drive way), and the front wheel would not go on, the gap wasnt big enough to put the wheel in with spacer and speed sensor, when I took them out there was a lot of free room.

    So what the previous owner did was rotate the forks (if they are the original, I've noticed a few bits that have been taken off other bikes) around so they bend outwards and used the axle bolt to bring them in together.


    I looked along the length of them and could see a slight kink in both of them aswell.


    So, I'm off to find a new pair of forks.
    Yay!


    Does anyone know if another model bike's forks will fit?
     
  3. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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  4. Shimmy

    Shimmy Active Member Premium Member

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    Well I may have found a set of forks.
    A couple of them actually.
    One set, $270, another $260 and $450.


    So naturally I'm inclined to go with the cheaper one.
    The $270 set sounds to be the one in best condition at the moment.
    The option to straighten my current pair is still there but I'm not too keen on that for some reason.


    I'd love to upgrade them to something better and adjustable but not sure what exactly to look for (length and stuff), I'm assuming theres more to it than just diameter?
     
  5. Shimmy

    Shimmy Active Member Premium Member

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    Did the ignition leads last night, which I believe made a small improvement.
    Idles more smoothly/consistent and seems to pick up the revs slightly easier.


    Gonna leave the plugs till last, so I can see if they really do make much of a difference (coming from standard to these split fires).
     
  6. Shimmy

    Shimmy Active Member Premium Member

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    Ok, so still having some difficulties in getting new forks.


    I found a bike locally being wrecked who only wanted $100 for the forks but the brake is on the right hand side, I could convert it over but would then need the caliper, wheel etc... price wise would end up the same.


    So I decided to go for the $270 set from NSW, after trying to confirm they are straight, I got a reply back saying that one has a very slight bend which can only be seen with a straight edge and that they are no longer willing to sell them to someone who can't see them before buying as they have a couple of marks on the stanchions.


    I then priced new stanchions from suzuki, $370... each.


    So, I may be left with the $260 option from Vic but they seemed to have an "It'll do" attitude.
    Might not have a choice but to get these and pray they are good, otherwise it'll be forever before I get the bike back on the road, and I really want to get back out on it.
     
  7. Shimmy

    Shimmy Active Member Premium Member

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    Finally back on the road again.


    I ended up going with the $100 set of forks locally and used my bottoms, built one good set from 2, new seals and fresh 10 wt Motul oil.
    One was perfectly straight and the other had a very slight bend but good enough I think.
    Rebuilt the brake caliper last night and installed it, finished bleeding it this afternoon the put the fairings back on then took it for a ride.
    So much better, the front end actually works properly now, dampening and feel wise, just so much better.
    Now also goes straight ahead when I take me hands off.


    Changing the ignition leads made a bigger improvement than I was expecting also, so much smoother and freer, picks up easier and better.
    Still gonna change the plugs soon though, and tune/balance, also going to lower the needle in the carbs, will try #2 first, might give #1 a go later, see how I like it.
     
  8. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Shimmy

    Sounds like there light at the end of the tunnel. Think you took the correct path with the forks, at least you know what you've got!
    Question, how bad were your leads originally. Once new plugs are fitted you will see further improvements.
    Curious to hear how the carbs go, they can be tedious at times!
    Good luck with it mate, soon time to hit the road!!
     
  9. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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  10. Shimmy

    Shimmy Active Member Premium Member

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    Thanks, yeah, starting to look and feel pretty good now, finally starting to actually like the bike (didnt "feel" anything about it before if that makes sense?).
    Really glad I did all the work myself.
    Yup, I think I went the right way with the forks also, actually work propely and no more leaks, no more oil burning on the exhaust and running up along the fairing getting everything dirty.

    The leads weren't that great at all, they were by the looks of it 3 core copper cable, had no shielding or anything.

    Cyl 1 was just hanging on by one strand and it was pretty nasty looking, cyl 2 didnt look too bad, cyl 3 was similar to 1, cyl 4 broke off in my hand.
    The thing with the plugs is the little bit on top is bigger that the plug bit on the leads (if that makes sense?) hopefully the current ones screw on aswell then I'll just change them over (providing threads are the same).


    I'll probably attack the carbs this sunday, I don't think I'll take them off anymore though, as much as I wouldnt mind to, I dont think there is a real reason to, just gonna move the needle down and tune/balance.



    Thanks for that, if I ever need to pull the forks apart again I'll get it done.


    Rode it around for a couple of hours all up today and it is a massive improvement, only issue at the moment is sometimes when I take my hands of the bar (testing to see if it tracks straight) it'll get a little head shake going, nothing serious and if I gently stop it and remove my hands again it's fine, most of the time though it's perfect.
    I'm assuming this could be due to an unbalanced wheel (I know it's out a little bit) or bumps in the road?
    Theres no excess slack in the head stem bearings and everything else is lined up and tightened up accordingly.


    Would be nice if the brake was a little stronger still but I think it may be getting towards the limit of a single disk?
    Or upgrade the master cylinder?


    Most of the wallowness in the suspension is gone aswell, much tigher and more confidence inspireing.
     
  11. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    I would bleed the brakes, you may have already done so! Reason being, brake fluid is hygroscopic, means it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere, kinda like a big sponge.
    The 2 are not terribly compatible hence the need to keep the brake fluid clean.
    Know it sounds crazy, but contamination within the system=poor brakes.
    Worth a look! 
     
  12. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Phil is on the money with the brakes.....fluid should be changed every couple of years or so.
    Brake fluid is cheap so either drain the old stuff completely,which allows u to see the bottom of the master cylinder to check for crud ,or keep bleeding until the new fluid is running thru the system.
    Heres my Fizzer when I got it...the guy was riding this to work and back every day......I rode it for 5 minutes and when I braked it nearly thru me over the bars when it grabbed suddenly and locked up.  :o
    Are your pads new?
    Have u "deglazed" the rotor if u put in new pads?
    Did u "bed in" the new pads?
    :D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    With the new plugs make sure u check the gap.
    Also do they have the "cap" still on them which is making them not fit the leads?..it just screws off.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    i make it a habbit to replace brake fluid every year. its so darn cheap to buy and very simple to do. remember this helps keep you alive this stuff, brakes are the most important thing on a bike
     
  14. Shimmy

    Shimmy Active Member Premium Member

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    Has fresh fluid through it, was completely drained when I rebuilt the caliper and changed the brake line.
    Although a I probably should have used some fresher fluid, the bottle was about 4 months old.
    Might go and grab some Motul stuff this afternoon.


    Lol, that looks nasty, mine had a little sludge in there, just a bit in a corner and that was it.
    Yup, deglazed the rotor and the pads are about 1000klm old, which I also deglazed, there was no info on the card of how to bed them in just "avoid any sudden braking for the first 150 applications" or something like that.


    Got them all gapped at .65mm already.
    Thanks, thats a bit of a relief, should go in easy then.
     
  15. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey GreyImport
    That master cylinder looks terrible, not surprised you had issues. One thing I did with previous bike was to clean the discs every few weeks. Used a clean rag soaked in methylated spirits and rubbed each disc. Clean disc=longer life for pads improved braking. Got great mileage from my discs and pads considering the size and weight of the Blackbird.
    Brake fluid is cheap so it's a no brain er to perform this task regularly.
     
  16. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    ozbiker : definately....brakes are no 1  :Thumbs_up:

    shimmy : sounds like youre well sorted.......hopefully its just a bit of air needs bleeding out...trapped air is of course going to be more likely if youve totally drained the system.

    phil: Yea I dont know how the PO survived ....he told me it had been raining for weeks also, at the time I was picking up the bikes....and his Ls had run out and he had had enough commuting in the cold and wet!
    Among alot of other dodgy things the rear wasnt much chop either.... :-\

    That regular disc cleaning sounds like a great idea  :Thumbs_up:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Regular maintenance?.....wats that ?  ???     

    :laugh:
     
  17. Shimmy

    Shimmy Active Member Premium Member

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    Wow, that is some nasty looking stuff there, amazing they were functioning at all.
     
  18. Shimmy

    Shimmy Active Member Premium Member

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    Another small update...


    I have moved the needles in the carbs down to #2, reset the idle mixture screws back to factory, replaced the spark plugs and attempted a balance.


    Idle is all over the place, and can be  a pain to keep running when cold and idles really high until it gets pretty warm (even then is still pretty high, even after adjusting the idle speed, it may seem right then but later it will be out again).
    Should I change the idles mixture screws or could it still be a blancing issue?
    I borrowed one of these http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CARB-CARBURETTOR-CARBURETOR-BALANCER-VACUUM-GAUGES-4-DIAL-/230855614979?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c0112203, mine seems to sit around 5 at idle (in the red zone), where should it be sitting?


    However, riding the bike is so much better, the flat spot is gone, it no longer argues about doing anything in any gear, can pull from 4000rpm in 6th gear (really slow but it will do it).
    More power around 7000rpm onwards, before there was virtually nothing till about 10500rpm.
    It will go to 17,000rpm easily but can tell it starts to lose power by then, before it would still pull a bit.
    Also economy has improved, I did it when the odo was reading 65klm, the light didnt come on till 97klm, usually after a fresh fill the light is on around 80-85klm, so I'm thinking I've gained around 25-30klm easily.


    Is it worth while droping it again to #1?


    Brakes are feeling consistent, and better stopping power (still nothing amazing though).


    Slide holders will need replacing soon, 2 are looking good, 1 is showing wear and the other has worn down to just a lip, cant see it lasting another 1000k


    It seems I may be taking it on a bit of a trip soon, to big day out in Sydney, a bunch of mates are going and have been asking me to go with them for a while now, Hobart to Sydney and back, going up the coast on the way up and inland on the way down I believe, in 8 days.
     
  19. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    I believe when u balance carbs the important thing is not wat the reading is but that they are all the same.  :angel:
     
  20. Shimmy

    Shimmy Active Member Premium Member

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    Thanks, thats what I thought but wanted to confirm.


     

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