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Project Newbie, FZR250 Project

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by beano, Oct 6, 2016.

  1. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Hi all Dean here, an fzr250 owner and from Ireland. just a basic back story on myself and my fizzer, basically i purchased a 3ln-1 way way back in 2005, suffered terribly with it (carbs what else) ****** it in the corner of the shed out of sheer frustration and went on in my biking life with a succession of gsxr's and yzf r1's etc.

    But getting the little fizzer going has always been in the back of my mind, back in 05 there was really no info on them, mechanics here wouldn't touch them and nobody really knew anything about how to keep them running.

    So a couple of days ago for some reason i just sat down and said id google a bit and see in the intervening decade if anyone had come to a solution and then i found this thread:

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/my-fizzer.872/

    Nearly everything said on it hit home, and i spent three hours reading the 45 or so pages and that was it, i got the motivation back, so this morning the bike went up on the ramp.

    [​IMG]

    First thing was to drop the 11 year old oil and coolant out and replace with fresh fluids, then put the battery on charge

    [​IMG]

    Then sort through boxes of old parts i had accumulated, including some spare sets of carbs which may come in handy.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]



    So thats it then for today, im waiting on a compression guage from a friend to see what the compression is like, and if its ok then ill proceed in whipping off the carbs and giving them a good clean and see if i can get the thing running.

    Looking forward to getting on with it and hopefully seeing what you guys make of the project.
     
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  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    :welcome:

    #1 thing with the FZR's is the needles and emulsion tubes wearing out... poor/cheap design which was not present in earlier models and fixed in the later ones... 3LN6/7 & Zeal do not appear to have this problem... 3LN1/3/5 all do, as far was we can tell. Keyster have kits with all new brass parts and o-rings. Prefer the litetek o-rings though due to them being made from viton.

    If your compression readings are low, put a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder and recheck... higher reading = worn rings... if the reading is low and oil in the cylinder didn't help... valve clearances will need doing (7.48mm shims) as the seats wear with age

    If you've read grey's thread then you will know most of this already, but here it is anyway...


    Identify what bits you have... some of these bikes end up as bitsas.

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...0-3ln-bodywork-frame-engine-carburetors.3469/

    As for the carbies... float height and fuel level are important

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/carb-fuel-level-everyones-favourite.3254/

    These guys can provide you with the shiny new brass bits for your carbs.

    http://www.motorcyclespareswarehouse.com.au/search?q=3LN

    And @maelstrom can get you the nice green bits :)

    http://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Yamaha_FZR250_3LN1.html

    http://litetek.co/Carb_Kit_Yamaha_FZR250_3LN3.html
     
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  3. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    excellent post man thank you, my friend just dropped down the compression tester there, i went to go at it and realised the radiatar has to come off so it can wait till tomorrow.

    anyone know what an ideal reading should be??
     
  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Hard to know unless you can read technical Japanese. But having a quick look at the 3LN1 service manual supplement, underneath the 12:1 compression ratio it lists 10kg/cm2 and 8kg/cm2. If you convert these to PSI you get 142PSI and 113PSI respectively.
     
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  5. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    After 10 year's of sitting it'd have a bit less wear in the carby's than most i'd think
    How many Km's has it done?
     
  6. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    cant remember the mileage to be honest, will check that tomorrow when im back in the shed.

    i have a second set of carbs as well as pretty much everything else after i found a 3ln-3 in a local scrap yard a few years ago, they must be at least workable as the reason the bike was there was it came from the local police impound, some guy had taken a chase on it a few months previously!!

    anyways i stripped the bike completely but had to drop back the frame to be destroyed, so i've plenty of spares.
     
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  7. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    My Bike:
    *Kawasaki ZXR250C *Yamaha FZR250R 3LN1 *Yamaha FZR400 *Triumph Bonneville 750 T140V *Triumph Daytona 675 *Triumph Tiger 800XC
    :welcome:

    I see you joined back in 2005 .... u must have been a member of the original 'FZR250' forum .... which we intergrated into here awhile back.

    I admire your perserverance , especially sitting and reading the epic tale of "My Fizzer" :lolsign:

    Therefore Ive granted u Premium membership to help u along the way with the technical stuff :D

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/categories/fzr250.25/

    You have probably found this already but lots of info on the bike here too in the sticky threads ...

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?forums/yamaha-250cc-in-line-4s.95/
     
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  8. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I did this just the other day:
    To check wear on the needle jets, remove them and take an OEM needle put it into the jet down to the widest part just below the clip slots and point it at a bright sky - you will see elongation of the jet orifice into an ellipse.
    The wear amounts are tiny, but very significant given the clearances involved with the needles all the all the way down like at low RPM settings.

    @maelstrom is developing a process to recondition needle jets, we are also collaborating on a process to hold the needles firm in the slide so that wear doesn't re-occur so quickly.

    In the meantime the keyster kits being available is a good solution given the difficulty/impossibility of obtaining OEM replacements
     
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  9. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    @GreyImport yeah that thread was the inspiration for trying to get this going again, its what made me pull the finger out, spent nearly the whole day reading it!! thanks for the membership upgrade.

    yeah it turns out i was a member of the old forum, was wondering how i was already registered.

    Anyway back to the job at hand, removed the radiator for better access and managed to get two of the plugs out, no's 1 and 3, but 2 and 4 are just spinning around going nowhere, any ideas?? apply heat?? failing that id say i'll have to drop the engine to drill them out which doesnt sound like fun.

    oh yeah @my67xr the mileage is around 29000km's

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    First thing to do is eyeball the plugs and see if they are straight. If they are not sitting straight then you need to think carefully about how to proceed. Maybe try to give them a bit of a tug while undoing them.

    If you have no luck getting them out or find the threads totally ruined, ie new plugs won't torque up, the cylinder head will need to come off to have the thread repaired either with a tap or drilled bigger and have an insert fitted.
     
  11. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    managed to get them out anyway, took off the mounts that hold the engine to the frame and that gave me the angle i needed to get the threads to grip and spin out. Dont seem to be any thread damage as the new ones i have nipped up nicely and the compression tester went in snugly aswell.

    ok so compression test completed and the results were:

    cyl 1 6 bar
    cyl 2 6 bar
    cyl 3 5 bar
    cyl 4 5 bar

    this seemed a little low so as someone above mentioned i put some oil down the plug holes and re-tested:

    cyl 1 10 bar initially then settled at around 8 bar
    cyl 2 11 bar initially then settled at around 9 bar
    cyl 3 10 bar initially then settled at around 8 bar
    cyl 4 10 bar initially then settled at around 8 bar

    anyone have any insight into these results?? Possible worn rings?? any other tests i should do??

    also went to test my spare engine but the straightforward connecting the starter to the battery just resulted in some sparks and the leads getting quite hot so if anyone knows any way of compression checking an engine thats out of the bike and sitting on the ground then i am all ears.
     
  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Regarding the compression test, was this done with the carbs on? If so you have to hold the throttle open otherwise the reading is no good. If the carbs are off then there is no metering of the air so the reading would be accurate.

    If the throttle was wide open when you took these readings then you definitely have worn compression rings. You might also notice hard starting even using the choke, and difficulty in tuning (takes a lot of adjustment to get any change).

    Fortunately there are cheap options for new pistons and rings! You can get standard sizing and oversized pistons, rings & wrist pins from Aliexpress. Which ones to use depends on the condition of your cylinder block. If it is within spec then you can get away with a light hone and new standard pistons & rings, or even just new rings.

    This is what I bought & used: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Mot...or-Yamaha-fzr250rr-fzr250-rr/32276337915.html


    Since you have the radiator off, it'd be convenient to at least check the valve clearances. Timing marks are on the camshafts & caps, and the flywheel/rotor underneath the stator cover. To check the clearances you will need feeler gauges. To change the clearances (via changing the shims) you will need the appropriate tools. A magnet to remove the buckets (also known as lifters), a torque wrench that can go down to 5 newton meters is essential.

    The clearance specs are:

    Intake: 0.11-0.20mm
    Exhaust: 0.21-0.30mm

    And must be checked when the engine is stone cold. Most likely you will find that all of the valves are either on the tight side of the spec, or under it. Valve seats wear down over time and the clearance gets less and less. This is normal.

    With the camshaft cover off, you can also check the timing chain. With the tensioner still on, if there is excessive slop in the chain between the 2 camshafts then it needs replacing.

    More info here: http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threa...-to-ihx-series-engines-2kr-3ln-zeal-etc.3921/
     
  13. ruckusman

    ruckusman White Mans Magic Master Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    carbs attached? throttle taped open and the slides held up with something?
     
  14. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    the test was performed with the carbs off the bike, looking like i will have to drop the motor out now.

    has anyone here ever bought the chinese pistons and headgaskets?? and if so how do they compare quality wise with oem?? just asking because while the piston kit in the above post by linkin is astonishing value, im not quite sure if i trust a set of $50 pistons at 160000 rpm!!!

    will have to ponder my next move over the weekend i think.
     
  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I have used the pistons & rings without incident. The chinese head gasket doesn't fit, the base gasket is made from asbestos and doesn't seal. Use new OEM gaskets.
     
  16. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  17. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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  18. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Ok so a bit of an update on this, I was sceptical about the readings from the compression tester, especially as I couldn’t replicate the readings and after calling up the friend who lent it to me he went away and checked it on a car he was doing up and came up with similar strange readings.

    he also had access to an engine leak down testing kit which he brought along and we checked the leakages of the cylinders by basically filling them with compressed air from a compresser and measuring how much air escaped.

    It’s a really cool tool and the gauge showed small variations between cylinders but they were all in range with the lowest being 7% and the highest approx 11% leakage.

    I vaguely remember the valves did get re-shimmed at some stage but it was over 10 years ago and couldn’t be sure so was rummaging through a few old folders and found these:

    [​IMG]


    So that confirms that then, it was time to try get it running, first up was to sort the carburettors so an order went out to Mr. Litetek and a few weeks later these arrived:


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    It’s a really comprehensive kit and fair play to @maelstrom for manufacturing such a thing, it’s the work of passionate individuals like himself that keeps these old bikes alive and as you will see below I cant rate this kit highly enough!!


    So anyway I knocked up an organiser out of some scrap wood to keep everything nice and together and most importantly in order!! And begun stripping:

    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    New throttle shaft seals:


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    New jet housing and needle housing seals:


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    Seals for the jets themselves:


    [​IMG]


    New seals for the mixture screws:


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    Seals for the floats:


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    Float bowl seals:


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    I comprehensively cleaned the carbs, first in an ultrasonic cleaner, then removed and cleaned with a set of carb brushes I got off ebay and finally blew out all the channels with compressed air and carburettor cleaner, the results I think speak for themselves.


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    [​IMG]




    This is a before pic of the carb bodies, I don’t have any of the inside of the carbs, but they were proper gummed up.


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    So after all that, and a quick bench sync, it was time to fire her up and see how she ran………..
     
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  19. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    it was time to finally get her fired up and see how she ran, so I hooked up the battery, rigged up a fuel supply and hit the starter………nothing, she tried to turn over a few times then just started making this weird clicking noise from the relay.


    Some of you may have seen my thread on the matter:

    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-possible-electrical-problem.9223/

    Turns out that the neutral sensor switch and oil level switch were plugged into the wrong connectors.

    So now the bike is running its time to move on to getting it rideable, first thing it will need is fuel, so it was time to do a job on the fuel tank.


    I removed the filler cap and fuel pick up for easier access, the tank had been sitting on a loft in the garage for circa 10 years now and predictably was in a terrible state:


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    That stuff you see at the bottom is some form of epoxy resin used as a previous attempt at lining the tank to stop the rust and as you will see below, it was an absolute BITCH to get out.


    So I started with trying to chip it all off with a large screwdriver and a hammer, it was painful work done over a few evenings and due to the shape of the tank and the small size of the filler opening It literally took hours and hours, but eventually we got to the end of it.


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    This is just some of the shite that came out of the tank:


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]



    so after some research online it was decided that POR-15 was the only man for the job, so I placed an order to polishnparts.ie in cork and 2 days later it arrived at my door. And only cost €61.40 delivered, cheaper than anywhere else I could find it online!!


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    It’s a three part tank treatment comprising of a cleaner, a rust converter, and finally a lining paint.


    So after flushing the tank a couple of times with water I bunged up the hole for the fuel pick up at the bottom with some ear plugs stuffed in and mixed up the cleaner with some hot water:


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    You swish it around for 20 mins and then drain the fluid out, its absolutely savage stuff, the gunk and shite that came out of it:


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    Next up was the metal prep, again this stuff is the absolute business, you mix it up with hot water the same as before and swish it around for 20 mins to make sure it gets into every nook and cranny, my arms were hanging off me at this stage so was happy to see that you then just set the tank down in different positions for 20 mins or so at a time and after about 2 hours you drain it out.


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    Its absolutely magic stuff I couldn’t believe my eyes when I seen what the inside looked like.


    So next was out with the hot air gun and blow out all the water, this part is critical because the lining paint uses the moisture in the air to dry so if there is any drops of moisture left in the tank it goes off right away and wont adhere properly to the tank. So to e sure I left it in beside the stove for the night.


    Next morning and it was time to fire in the final part:


    [​IMG][/URL
    ]


    Again you have to swirl it around to make sure it gets into every nook and cranny and then drain out the excess and let it sit for 4 days to dry. so I pulled the bungs out and let it sit.


    [​IMG]


    So that’s pretty much it up to now, got a brand new air filter in the post today, so hopefully gonna get her all sealed up and synchronise the carbs this week.


    The plan then will be a case of getting the thing safe to ride so checking/rebuilding the brakes, swingarm and linkage bearings, fork seals, headstem bearings and tyres. Once its running properly and safe then I will worry about making it look pretty, so will tidy up the fairings and see about maybe possibly respraying a few bits, don’t want to spend a mad amount on it but it would be nice to have her looking well in the end.
     
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  20. beano

    beano Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Question time!! i currently have the rear end removed from the bike to check the swingarm and linkage bearings and also to clean up the shock. The shock that was on the bike is definitely kaput, there is corrosion on the rod which will wreck the seals, so luckily i have a spare off a 3ln-3 which is in better shape, but id still like it to be more presentable, pics below.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    As can be seen in the pics there is plenty of rust at the top mount and on the spring, especially on the side facing the rear wheel, my question is: can the shock be easily disassembled to get those parts replated and possibly a new spring fitted? or is it a specialist job that would require being sent away?? i had a search on the forum but didnt come up with much.

    second question, again on finishes is about the frame and swingarm. i want to restore them to their shiny best and was wondering if yamaha paint the frames with a special paint or is it just lacqured aluminium?? for example in the second picture posted below there is what looks like paint flaking off the swingarm in spots and i would like to get the frame and swingarm to an even appearance if anyone knows the best way to go about it??

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    thanks in asvance for all suggestions guys.
     
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