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Project Project SRX250

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by edwardo, Apr 5, 2020.

  1. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Huge pain! I used a heat gun to gently warm them up but I was dicking around for so long they went cold again haha. Have heard they are a pain on the vt’s!

    Got them on in the end. Both nice and snug but wouldn't mind a bit more overlap on the airbox side!

    Also tidied up the wiring harness and chucked it in. Now to remember cable routes.. it's been so long since I took them off I'm basically making it up as it goes in ha
     

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  2. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ed.
    The O.E fuel filter in the tank has a pretty fine mesh , but i cant remember if you fitted a new filter OR not. I haven't got a spare filter either sorry if you needed one. The biggest hassle i had was finding the correct fuel hose(s) (I.D and O.D) from the tank filter to the fuel tap , what a pain that was. If i had a D7 Bulldozer i would have been OK , welcome to living in a country town.

    If you fitted the new XT / TT manifold's they are slightly shorter in O.A.L. But the airbox is slightly adjustable via the 4 bolt's , so it can go slightly forward to take up some gap. No offence , but watch using those worm drive clamp's , they have a tendency to bit into the rubber when doing them up sometimes. I usually try to avoid them when i can.

    On fitting the inlet manifold's , check for port matching from the intake manifold's to the head.
    When i did mine , i took my time to make sure it was smooth as inside , there is a lot of play on the bolt holes on the manifold's , even using correct O.E bolt's there was a lot of play.

    Hate to say , but re-fitting the carb's after the fuel weep repair's was easy , there are little trick's that can be done to make the job so much easier , less part's removal. This is , removing the carb's / refitting them with the air box etc still in the frame. As soon as you work out the short cut's , these bike are pretty good to work on.
     
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  3. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    If you need pictures of where the loom lay's i can send them to you as i took heap's of pictures on the strip down , well i had more but when my old PC died i lost some. The routing of the loom is listed in the workshop manual , but i alway's like pictures.
     
  4. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Nah didn't install a new one. I have noticed the filter in tank is pretty fine but have seen crud get through in some of my old bikes. Was gonna stick an inline in to be sure. I've had some difficulty getting the right size hoses too.

    I just chucked on the old manifolds i had and slapped some sealant on them. Unfortunately those worm drive clamps are all I have and what came with the bike.

    Would appreciate some pics if you have some floating around. I've kinda got it in place but routing stator cables etc I'm not sure about. Cheers!
     
  5. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ed
    The fuel filter in the tank is pretty fine , there is only a rubber gasket / screw's that hold's the fuel filter in place. Maybe a good idea to check it first before putting fuel in tank , at'least thing way you can make sure that O.E filter isn't semi clogged.

    No problem to supply the pic's , i have a few of them. I'll get them to you.
     
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  6. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    I'f you have issue's finding the correct I.D and O.D fuel hose , i can send some to you. The fuel line look's to rubber based , it's very flexible and will bend to the correct shape. Was pretty dear though , but it was the best fitting i could find.
     
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  7. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Have emailed a fair few pictures for you. If you need pictures of a certain area , just ask. I have lot's more to share if needed.
     
  8. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Very handy pics, helped tidy up a few loose ends.

    Mainly just the control plugs to go. Got a little earth strap but don't remember taking it off haha looks important! One ring has buggered teeth/splines on the inside should help narrow it down but who knows!

    Looks fairy crusty and grimey, probably somewhere exposed or close to the chain or something like that.
     

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  9. Oigy

    Oigy Owner of many bikes, keeper of few :(

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    Could be No 10 in this wiring parts list for SRX's?? Opera Snapshot_2021-01-07_201730_en.impex-jp.com.png
     
  10. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ed. Have heap's more picture's of where thing's are routed and what there plugged into.

    Quote : Mainly just the control plugs to go.
    Do you mean where the instrument loom / switch gear loom lay's / routed ? .The loom that lay's under the tank , those plug's are colour coded , so just join those ones together.

    The wire in your picture , i'm pretty sure there is one that is used for the rectifier mount earth wire.I'll go through my pictures tonight and see if i can find it for you , i'f i cant find it , i'll lift the tank off and investigate. To dark in my shed at the moment to look. Will do that tomorrow.

    I think i've found one single wire , but unsure if it's the one your after. I do remember another single wire that bolt's to the L/H far rear engine case and then onto the frame , i'll check that also tomorrow if i cant find it with my pictures.

    DSCN0624_LI.jpg
     
  11. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hello there Oigy , haven't caught up with you for a while :drinks:.

    :stayontopic: Gary , opps , sorry !
     
  12. Oigy

    Oigy Owner of many bikes, keeper of few :(

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    Yeah I been around mate, not done much on Rex for a bit, poor thing is 98% complete and running well(thanks to Andy), have made a new screen for it, just got to put in on and decide which muffler to use and he is done, not a restoration as such, but he will be in GOOD Original used condition with all the important bits working as they should. Will put up a photo when I get off my slack arse and finish him off :( Kinda lost interest a bit, got a bunch of other time consuming interests that have taken over, must get back on track and decide his future I guess :(
     
  13. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Oigy
    You have been a bit quiet on the rebuild , was wondering how you where going. But i cant talk , all i've been doing is giving the bike a cuddle.
    know of a handy guy that lives in Glen Innes to finish it off , but i don't think he'd like to give it back.
     
  14. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Part #10 in the picture above is the negative wire , which goes from the battery to the engine block. Via the part's fiche picture , it show's that it's really short , as in real life it's around 600mm +- long.

    I've had a look on bike bike already , the only small short wire that i could see is the one on the rectifier. I'f the sun appears today , i'll have more light in the shed , so i'll have another look.

    Note to myself , must improve the lighting in the shed. I was gifted a huge H.I.D flood light , yet to hook it up though , might be way to powerful in my small shed. It would be nice in winter though.
     
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  15. Oigy

    Oigy Owner of many bikes, keeper of few :(

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    Yes I saw it was the negative wire, but it was the only wire I could find in the wiring diagram that was short and looked like the pic edwardo posted so thought it may have helped :(
     
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  16. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Oigy.
    So far the only short wire that I can locate is the one on the rectifier. I even pulled off my front sprocket cover to see if it's buried in there , but I couldnt find anything like that. I may be missing that one though as the bike is 36 years old and the history is unknown to me.
     
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  17. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Thanks for those pics, very handy! Colour coded plugs make everything easier!

    I did notice my loom had a wire with ring terminal and I've attached that to the r/r. Unfortunately that leaves the little wire I have homeless still.

    I've got a feeling it connects engine case to frame as you say, just seems to ring a bell. Also it's grimey from chain oil or road grime so that checks out too.

    I did think it was that ground wire too before realising the break in it signifies not actual length! Thanks for the suggestion!
     
  18. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Before adding fuel to the mix I thought I'd see if the starting circuit worked. It didn't.

    Checked over various parts but couldn't get it to fire conventionally. I did jump the starter solenoid which turned the bike over.

    So far have checked:
    - solenoid
    - main fuse
    - starter switch (work appropriately)
    - bridged clutch switch

    Are there any go-to bits that commonly fail on these bikes?

    Also can someone let me know how their ignition switch operates? I can get mine from "lock", to "park" (I think) then "on". Is that right? It's just I've checked continuity between pins and on "on" haven't been able to get them powered. All the cables in the ignition harness should be getting power in the "on" position. Or have I interpreted this diagram incorrectly (#3 on the diagram)

    Generally the harness connectors are pretty bad and I'm going to replace most of not all of them soon. I'm just hoping it's something simple I've missed.

    Any input would be great!
     

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  19. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    So after going through the trouble shooting steps, which all came back ok, I worked through the connectors. Lo and behold it was the connector for the ignition barrel wires.

    I 100% shouldn't be surprised as it's basically falling apart but I thought it was making good connection despite its appearance.

    Took it apart and bridged with wires, thumbed starter and it all worked.

    I also noticed a volt or so volt drop across the stock fuse. Removed it and put in a wire temporarily, will wire in a correct sized fuse later.
     

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    Last edited: Jan 20, 2021
  20. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ed
    Sorry , bit slow to help you.
    I'f you still need help with the position's of your ignition switch , i can check mine out tomorrow for you.

    I'f you think your switch is worn out , i have a spare here i bought with a job lot sale , it is unkown to me , but it felt nice in operation.

    A good locksmith can repair ignition switch's , as i had one repaired back in the day's. This will save you re coding the seat & the helmet lock.
     
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