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Project Project SRX250

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by edwardo, Apr 5, 2020.

  1. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    It's been a hot minute! Not a whole lot has been done. You know what it's like.

    A few things:
    - Wired up a digital speedo. Just an eBay special. Took a bit of fettling to get right. Old gauges looked a bit poor.

    - led indicators gave me the run around. Tried soldering a diode contraption in but couldn't get it to work. Ended up just buying a premade kit from UK made for converting old car lights to led. All working now.

    - went through several handle bar types before settling on these. Happy to post on the ones I didn't use of anyone needs? I'll get some pics later. They are 33mm

    - will chuck an led headlight in perhaps but they all look a bit funny and futuristic. I do like the halogen one I guess it keeps the bike from looking too much like a Frankenstein. Headlight brackets are a bit wide but that's all I could find to suit my application. Made up some arms from 3mm aluminium. They are too wide for the headlight so I cut down some runner chair legs to take up the space. I'll eventually get some ally spacers. eBay has everything.

    - clearance issues for the handle bars under the top clamp. Bit of grinding with a Dremel and they fit.

    - steel braided brake line from HEL. Very good service. They have a custom build page where you can choose your ends length colour etc. Really pleased with that.

    All that's really left now is bleeding brakes, paint some panels and tank and then probably a mountain of teething issues haha

    PXL_20220420_090754908.jpg PXL_20220420_083438118.jpg PXL_20220420_083455701.jpg PXL_20220420_091830927.NIGHT.jpg
     
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  2. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ed
    Good to see the SRX is still on the go.

    The new instrument panel look's super neat actually , to me it look's like it meant to be where it's fitted.

    Can you keep the headlight bucket you have fitted already and just fit a L.E.D globe inside ?.
    That's my plan for my headlight when finances allows. I may never ride the bike on at night , but i youse to travel mainly at night back in the day's , i really enjoyed it.

    What type of front brake master cylinder you have fitted , have never seen one like that as the lever is adjustable in pull ?.

    Oh by the way , look's like your new garage has a LOT more room for you to play in , well comparing to your old garage.
     
  3. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Well it's been another long time between posts. Bike is pretty much finished (are they ever really finished) and registered. Took it for a spin today and it rode really well. Very happy. Shifted through all the gears well and behaved like it should.

    Last few things to do:
    - noticed a leak from the front caliper which has ruined the finish, damn. Will chuck in some new copper washers hopefully that fixes it
    - exhaust needs to be properly welded up, it's just kind of sitting there
    - centrestand fouls the suspension linkage, think it's missing a bump stop or something to stop it swing up so high.
    - install chain guard

    Probably other stuff as well but we'll see.


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  4. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ed
    Good to see the SRX up and running and registered too !.

    Totally agree , there one nice bike to ride , so flickable it's not funny , hardly no input at all is needed.

    The issue you have with your center stand , there is a rubber bumper stop , have taken a picture of where it is fitted.


    20221026_084153.jpg
     
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  5. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Yes it was a very fun ride around the neighbourhood. Very happy there were no surprises.

    I fixed the bump stop with a rubber doorstop from bunnos. All sweet.

    A few things I noticed/need to attend:

    1. Brakes lack bite and stopping power. I have a good tight lever, braided line and rebuilt caliper with new pads. Maybe it just needs some bedding in. Although it did look like the pads were not flat on the disc, rather over the disc surface and the disc body if that makes sense. Could be not put in correctly or needs to set in.

    Anyone been successful chucking on a new caliper or something like that?

    I had everything for a for swap to a fzr250 front but the cost to refresh and renew it was just too much.

    2. Weld on exhaust. Will give it a try with my gasless mig. Got an eBay exhaust that is nondescript so should look ok.

    3. Really happy it was charging too! Swapped out the stator for a used one and it charges in spec. Was worried I'd have to rewind the old one and then deal with stator gasket etc had heaps of trouble preventing leaks there.
     
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  6. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ed.
    Yep , they are a nice bike to get around on , and pretty surprising out on the highway too , well i suppose i do ride like a old man though , but mine seem's to want to get up and go and that's only going to around 6000RPM.

    Is your bike on club rego or normal rego , i can't tell via your picture's.

    Re front brake's , i just checked mine. The brake pad's are so close to the rotor , you'd need a thin feeler gauge to check air gap. I can take some picture's if that help's you ?.
    The caliper only bolt's in one spot , wonder if it's been swapped out for something else , take a picture of your's and i'll compare.
     
  7. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Try this method of installing the caliper

     
  8. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    You may have an issue with that radial MC being too large which affects bite and overall stopping power.
    I have info on my Computer giving all the relevant calculations to correctly size a MC to suit the caliper.
    It also discusses the different leverages etc available on the type of MC you have.
    I will try and dig it out before I pull all my office apart to make the 20 minute move back across the border.


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  9. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Well it doesnt seem to want to let me upload an excel spreadsheet, PM me your email address and I will send it to you.
    This is what it looks like.
    Image 27-10-2022 at 10.06 pm.jpeg
     
  10. Andych

    Andych Moderator Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    I am not sure on the mounting dimensions but I have added a Ducati 300mm disc and adapted a fake Brembo to the standard SRX forks.
    If memory serves me correctly the figures in that spreadsheet refer to this setup... and I have a 15mm Brembo MC for it... I havent finally mounted the caliper yet (still waiting on the adapter plate to be done) but I am confident it will be a far better front brake than the standard SRX offering.
    Most of the info can be seen here...https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/yamaha-srx-250-3wp.9076/page-27
     
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  11. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Currently on standard rego, will get it on club rego soon. Much cheaper rego.

    As for caliper, tried the method outlined by that suspension guy in yt vid, seemed to help with seating properly. I think the disc needs to be machined as well or replaced. Looking at the disc face, there seems to be incomplete contact due to inconsistent markings from the pads. I am getting some pulsing through the lever too.
    Awesome! Will look into it, was a bit worried. Might chuck on a new disc as mine may be warped and in need of a machine or replacement.
    I hadn't put much thought into the maths behind it and implications of changing things around. Thought I'd chuck on a new fleabay mc as mine were all knackered and a mess.
     
  12. 2valve

    2valve Well-Known Member

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    Hi Ed
    Yep changing rego over to the historic rego is very cheap , just have to remember to fill the log book out before you fire the bike up.

    Re pulsating front brake lever.
    The method i've used for many year's with the old 1975 /1976's BM 2 valve boxer's front disc's , is to sprinkle baby powder all of over both sides of the disc's , and roll the wheel very slowly , you'll see exactly where the pad's are making contact via the rub pattern on the disc itself or where it's not rubbing , and it will also show you where a issue is.

    The early BM's had a adjustable cam's on the front caliper's to align the pad's to the rotor with , but with stainless disc rotor's , you had to set the brakes up really well to make them work.
    I have no idea why this set up was used , just another quirky thing on the old BM's.

    Prefer my brake's on my SRX any day , i hate to grab a handful of front brake's , i'd go over the bar's i think.
     
  13. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Thanks for the info guys. The brakes have gotten better as they've bedded in, probably a bad thing really as when/if I get a new disc the pads won't contact well and it'll be the opposite but still bad.

    Welded on the exhaust too which goes alright. Welding exhaust pipe with gasless definitely isn't my strong point ha.

    Few things to do:
    - Remove caliper and repaint, fit new union bolt and washers. Leak has bubbles the paint
    Might leave the brakes for another time. Depending on how much $$ discs are.
    - Install magnet and pickup for digital speedo
    - seat cover is knackered, needs replacing
    - oil leak from filler cap and oil filter housing. Oop not sure how that happened

    PXL_20221028_085220988.jpg
     
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  14. Alumascoupe

    Alumascoupe Member Premium Member

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    There us a chance you could also have "glazed" rotor & or drum. They can rust when sitting long periods & iron oxide rust is harder so it tends to glaze over once used again. Could have an almost mirror like finish to it. A easy fix if thats the case is use some sand paper to give it a new finish. Dont want to go sanding in one spot long & be careful to keep it rotating & change direction of strokes, no need to be aggressive. But if you do it right in the end it will look like cross-hatching marks in a cylinder wall. Then you want to properly "seat" the pads & shoes by steadily increasing brake use up to temp then slowly back down to cool again so as not to warp things. A good method is 0-10kph-0 then 0-20-0, 0-40-0, 0-80-0, 0-40-0, 0-20-0,0-10-0. You may smell brake pads during this time which is normal. Basically you want to slowly & carefully get them warm enough to really bed in then slowly back down to normal temps again. This method works wonders for squeeks noises weak glazed rotors storage rust etc. It takes some time & effort & care is needed to not warp rotors during this process by stopping in one place long (hot spot on rotor under pads) or being a fool just cooking the pads then parking it. But really this is the proper method to seat brakes, new, old, or just noisy or weak.
    Hope you get your brakes resolved, & I was reading above & would also recommend an LED bulb for your halogen housing if you like it & wish to keep it. On a whim i ordered a pair of them off Aliexpress on a hot deal or something for under $25 & they are in 2 bikes now, both much brighter than stock & have lasted at least a few months, which in all honesty I was not expecting for the bargain basement price.
     
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  15. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    I think my old rotor was a few issues rolled into one. It had uneven wear and I'm pretty sure was glazed too. I had considered your idea of hitting it with some sandpaper on a flat surface to resurface. Ended up getting a new disc off Aliexpress for 30-40ish which was pretty good.

    All fitted and seems to be much better. Ok the next ride I will definitely try your method to bed them in. Cheers for the info.

    Re headlight yeah I have a few on my watch list. Might as well bite the bullet, as you say they are very cheap not much too loose.

    Cheers
     
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