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quick questions about GSX250F head gaskets

Discussion in 'Suzuki 250cc In-line 4's' started by ozbiker, Oct 26, 2012.

  1. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    guys,
    im not 100% certain but it looks like i have a very slow oil leak on the left side of my motor and it appears to be coming from the head gasket.
    the head gasket part number im refering to is

    11241-06c00

    and if it is leaking from there and i need to replace it, do i also need to replace the other head gasket, as there is 2 part number for it

    first part number is

    11141-05c02

    and seconds is

    11141-05c72

    if i replace the part #
    11241-06c00

    will i need to undo the crank and drop the pistions a bit to get a ring compressor in and get the pistions back in the cylinder?

    im comfortable doing the timing chain and valve shim adjustment. but the lower head gasket ,between the case and cyclinder is an unchartered territory for me
     
  2. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    looks like my across is a very early one as the front brake is on the right side of the bike. the very early ones come with the front disc rotor on the right then they went to the left side.

    still not 100% sure what part number to get.will worry about it tomorrow
     
  3. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    I thought the early Jap spec bikes had the brake on he RH side... is yours an import ?  Is your tail light oval shaped or square ?
     
  4. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    build date on the compliance plate says 05/1991

    the tail light is oval shape
     
  5. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Definitely Jap spec

    Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
     
  6. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    so my bike must be a 'type 1' across and not a ' type M/P/W'
     
  7. Desmo

    Desmo Member Premium Member

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    You'd have the same as mine then, Its the "F" version or the original model. I did the head gasket but left the base gasket for the reasons you mention, getting the pistons back in would be a real ***** of a job.

    Just knock the head loose with a rubber mallet (i used a copper strip to break the seal of the head gasket first) and you shouldn't need to replace the base one :)

    Sure its not just weeping down from the cam cover gasket? Those leak quite easily if not enough RTV silicone was put on the half moon bits :) resulting in oil spray all down side of the motor.
     
  8. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    my gsx250f across has this vin number


    JS1G75A8M2100454

    engine number

    J706105280

    i have put a bit of gasket sealant using a paddle pop stick round the bottom left of the cylinder just above the stator cover this morning and went for a ride. looks like the leak has stopped but im not 100% sure.i have left the lower fairing off the bike so i can keep an eye on it over the the next week or two.
     
  9. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    ok, done some googling and made some phone calls.

    long and short of it, no need to replace the bottom gasket between the crank case and the cylinder

    but do need to raise the cylinder up from crank case about 10mm

    once cylinder is raised, go nuts with a product called

    permatex PermaShield Fuel Resistant Gasket Dressing & Flange Sealant

    http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/permatex_permashield_fuel_resistant_gasket_dressing_flange_sealant.htm


    its not available in Australia yet but should be before christmas. raise the cylinder, go nuts with this stuff and then put the cylinder back down.leave the original gasket there

    to raise the cylinder will have to remove the exhaust. before putting exhaust back on, use

    permatex copper

    around the exhaust flange where it connects to the head

    http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_permatex_ultra_copper_maximum_temperature_rtv_silicone_gasket_maker.htm

    you can also go nuts with the permatex permashield on the rocker cover as well


    awesome.i think i have a solution. this will same me removing the cylinder completely , so long s i keep the rings /pistions in the cylinder when i raise the cylinder a bit, i will be fine
     
  10. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    here is the model breakdown including models, serial numbers and years sold for the Across.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    nice work, thanks for the info
     
  12. Desmo

    Desmo Member Premium Member

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    They have copper crush washers in the exhaust ports so you don't need sealer there :) Just buy new ones if you feel so inclined. You can just blast them with a torch to cherry rod and they soften up ready to be used again if you are particularly cheap assed haha.

    Would want to be careful lifting the block up too, they only have a 33mm stroke, and if one piston is at BDC then lifting it 10mm up could let it come free. The adhesive between the old gasket and the block is pretty mega. Don't underestimate it. The head can easily be knocked free without disturbing it thus saving all this sealer and such you should probably only resort to if you do end up splitting the base gasket. just saying  :p I think my guide on replacing the head gasket is still up on ASB somewhere.

    Good luck to yah :)
     
  13. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    thanks for the info, i have already found and saved your how to's months ago to my scribd account, but here they are in their original form

    http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11922

    valve clearance
    http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11748

    head gasket replacement
    http://www.aussiestreetbikes.com/forum/showpost.php?p=167789&postcount=3


    these posts/photos of yours are absolutely brilliant. thanks so much for sharing them.

    i will wait and see if the sealant i put on the bottom of the cylinder holds the oil in or not.

    yes your correct if the 2 of the pistions are set TDC then the rings will pop out the base of the cylinder. with the head removed you can easily see it. i would have to turn the motor over so all 4 sit around the middle of the cylinder, then riase the cylinder. even 5mm would be more then enough to shove the nozzle in there of gasket maker to fix it properly
     
  14. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    i have done about 50 kays since i have done this and no oil leaks thus far.so i think im in a winner here.


    so is it worth my while when i go and do the cam chain/shims that i raise the cylinders a smidgeon and put some gasket maker around to help keep it oil tight or just leave it how it is???

    i assume if i leave it how it is, it will eventually get worse in time
     
  15. Desmo

    Desmo Member Premium Member

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    Ahh, looked up the part number and you were refering to the base gasket, thought you meant the head one! whups :p

    Yeah for sure give it a go then, the base and head gaskets are <$100 so if it doesn't cure it you aren't out all that much if you have to do it all again. Should be fine anyway, some remove the base gasket entirely and yamabond the join to seal it up on things like old oil cooled gixxers.
     
  16. ozbiker

    ozbiker New Member Premium Member

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    yamahabond = hondabond = threebond

    this stuff is more expensive then poison  ;)

    however, if i wait another month or two before i do this job, i can buy the "permatex permashield" i can use it on the cylinder head and the base of the cylinder between the cylinder and crankcase , *PLUS* i can use it around the float bowls of the carby where the gasket lives there too :Thumbs_up:
     
  17. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    I beleive the author of that thread (Glen) is a member here, aka Desmo....  I had an inkling and when I saw the GSXR400 engine I knew
     

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