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RGV250 general info?

Discussion in 'Suzuki 250cc 2 Strokes' started by edwardo, Oct 13, 2013.

  1. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Hi guys, how are we all?

    Well it looks like I am the new owner of an rgv250, I believe it to be a vj22 'M' model. Hopefully I can get some advice and/or tips from some owners out there!

    Prepare for a long post!

    Never owned one before, let alone a two stroke. What can I say, it is a very quick little 250. I've taken it for a couple of spins around the block and there are a few issues with it that might just be normal, I just don't know. Also gonna ask a few general questions too.

    Tbh, I just have no idea what to expect from this bike, what's normal what's not etc.

    1) First off, the right handle bar looks like its been welded on... Also, I heard that some people re-weld parts of the frame near the yoke and triple clamps area.. I think mine looks quite suspect.. This worries me..

    2) Also turning corners left and right, the bike seems to want to 'bite' and cut into the corner aggressively, is this normal? I've only ridden my zxr250 and across and I didn't get that feeling so distinctly. (sorry if this is a noob question)

    3) When giving the bike a stab on the throttle, it occasionally will just sit at 5-7k rpm for about 3-5 seconds, again, is this just normal for two stroke? It's just other times I rev it and it just returns to idle straight away. Its as if the throttle cable is sticky.

    4) Perhaps an Ebay spec fairing kit? I saw a few guys on here with them but not sure what seller to get them from as I have heard some horror stories. Will prob just research feedback etc.

    5) Day to day maintenance? I have no idea.. Oils? What're your experiences in quality etc. All that stuff.

    I'm thinking about taking it to a mechanic and seeing if it's worth fixing up properly.. It has 9XXX kms on the clock with recent top end freshen up. I just have no idea whether it's worth the money to do it up that's all. I've been daydreaming about tyga pipes and yoke and rearsets and new fairings and fork inernals and rotors and braided lines all that stuff, I just don't know how to tell if it's worth all the money. Especially if the frame has been welded. Is that such a big issue? It rides a straight line and doesn't pull etc.

    *deep breath in*

    Thanks in advance for any input guys! Don't flame me too much, it's my first two stroker
     
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  2. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Good stuff Ed :thumb_ups:

    First thing I would do is put up some pics of the bike and especialy the "weld" area so all the people in the know here can give advice.
    Also take off the fairings and take a few shots also.

    As with any older bike its maintenance schedule is unknown and usually suspect .
    Manuals are here ..... http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/categories/rgv250.45/

    Has it been ridden regurlarly before u bought it? ..... are the tyres up to scratch? are they old and therefore hard?

    Most POs will do the basic stuff like oil /filter changes but fork oil etc is usually too hard or just not thought of.

    Id leave the mechanic option as a last resort ..... you will get a far better idea on what to do from everyone here , especially the 2 stroke/RGV lads ..... save your dollars for parts and upgrades :D
     
  3. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Edwardo

    You Da Man !!! Welcome to the world of 2 bangers !!! First off this thread is useless without pictures :)

    1. Need some pics
    2. Not sure, how are the fork seals \ tyre pressures ?
    3. It should drop back pretty quickly, check your cables and throttle tube
    4. Send a PM to Stigy , he has built a couple and may be able to help you out with some advice
    5. where do I start

    Some 2 stroke owners disable the oil pump and run premix, I would check that your oil pump is working other wise you will be adding 2 stroke oil at the petrol station. As for 2 stroke oils, there are 2 types, the first is the oil in the gearbox, its called trans oil, the 2nd is the oil that mixes with your fuel, I use Castrol TTS, its not the cheapest, but is the goods and the smell... Turn your fuel tap off when your not using it. Powervalves will need to be serviced to keep them in good shape.

    A poorly tuned 2 stroke will be a disappointment, I would suggest dropping a few $$$ to your mechanic and get him to give it the once over and to ensure the carbs are well tuned, this may avoid it seizing . However, a well tuned 2 stroke will blow your mind, when you ride it, it will be boring to about 7500RPM, then it go berko, make sure your holding on. :thumb_ups:

    Cheers

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    Hey Edwardo
    Nice purchase or is it? You raise some interesting questions and alas it is always a guessing game with second hand goods. The status of the welded frame concerns me a little, would get that checked by someone in the know.
    Mechanically 2 strokes are generally classified as easy to work on, having said that the RGV,NSR and the likes of are road legal race bikes and require extra attention. The fun derived from these machines will put a huge smile on your dial. There are plenty of people on the forum who can assist you with info, a few photos would be a good start.
    Good luck mate, this could the ride of your life.:thumb_ups:
     
  5. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Hey guys thanks for the replies, I am yet to get my camera out and snap away sorry! Been pretty flat out lately and I know that if I start pulling it apart now I can say good bye to uni work lol it'll take over!

    Did take the bike for another spin, slightly pooped myself.

    Anyway, I did have a further look.

    Tyres are old and crusty, perhaps the culprit of that funny feeling when turning?

    Now the sustained revving when I've backed off the throttle. I started the bike up, let it idle and warm. Then I rolled the throttle and revs shot straight up past 7k and I had to hit the kill switch to stop it continuing! This happened twice! Also, after rolling the throttle, revs still hover around 5-7k rpm occasionally.

    I read online that parts of the carb can be installed backward (bowl? I can't recall exactly) and this results in the bike revving to redline without touching the throttle.

    Also the right hand clip on bar seems to have been welded on, not onto the fork but rather along the bar itself between the clamp and switch block. Perhaps it was bent from a drop.

    Which reminds me, the levers touch the fairings on full lock, normal? I'm getting the feeling it may have seen some track in its time lol

    How often do you top up oil? I have no idea lol. Every full tank?

    One last thing, I noticed the temp gauge shoot straight up when key turned to 'on' without actually possibly being overheated as I hadnt ridden it..

    Hmm..

    Anyway, hope to get some pics up soon guy's, thanks again!
     
  6. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Temp gauge will be a crap sender or wiring earthed out some where. Try disconnecting the sender wire, gauge should show cold, then touch the wire to the metal of engine and gauge should go to hot. Don't hold any longer than required to see gauge move as shorting directly to earth for too long will burn out gauge.
     
  7. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Hey everyone, thanks for the input and sorry for the delayed posting, been rather busy.

    Any who, I got around to taking some close up pics of some suspect welding. I may be just be making it up all in my head but I am a little worried tbh.

    The pics attached are welds on the swingarm, main frame welds; mainly all in that area. And for comparison purposes, I took a pic of my zxr main frame weld which looks a LOT cleaner.

    I'm no metal worker, but do these welds look rather messy..

    Tell me what you guys think!

    cheers :)
     

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  8. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    The first photo shows where it has been 'touched up' as you can see the black arcing from the high frequency start, but it looks a substancial weld so not too worry. The others are just standard factory welds that were maybe done on a Monday or Friday but nothing to worry about. Go enjoy your bike and don't stress. :thumb_ups:
     
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  9. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Couldnt agree more with Murdo... now get out and enjoy it !!! (or sell it to me)
     
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  10. Phil

    Phil Senior Member Contributing Member

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    No, not to him, to me.:lolsign:
     
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  11. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    If u have any doubts , lend the bike to me and if Im still alive in 5 years then you know its safe and you can have it back

    Ok? :cool:
     
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  12. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Haha reassuring! Thanks a bunch guys. The weather is looking great here in Adelaide despite forecast storms and rain, needs some new tires and I'm off!

    Thanks again, Ed.
     
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  13. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    This is just my two cents worth and everyone is welcome to tell me to jump off a cliff. :D

    As someone who spent a period of my life TIG and MIG welding aluminium.
    1.jpg looks like a repair and has been contaminated during the weld (looks like the tungsten touched the aluminium or the argon shield was breached). Which is what Murdo said.

    2.jpg has too much heat build up. As the TIG weld is continued the amperage has to be dropped as the aluminium absorbs more and more heat. Also as the weld has been finished extra filler should have been added to finish the pool and avoid the "sunken hole".

    4 & 5 the ever present problem of welding extrusion to a casting. Sometimes it is better to pre-heat and run a base weld on the casting first and then grind out any porosity before completing the final weld.

    5.jpg is the one that I would keep an eye on as it looks like it may have a crack forming. The rest look to have enough penetration and heat to be OK. Cold welds are what scares me!
    cheers
    Blair
     
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  14. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Thanks for the detailed reply Blair!

    So I don't need to worry too much about the welds bar pics 4 & 5 (they are the same weld) even though if they are repairs?

    Things are looking good otherwise, and items are being added to the shopping cart as we speak haha. ​
     
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  15. Fox McScrooge

    Fox McScrooge Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Hi mate,

    Congrats on the new bike. It's good to see people keeping the two stroke tradition alive. The RGV is a great little sportbike when its well sorted. Your bike looks pretty nice in the photos.

    Regarding the issue with the bike revving until you had to hit the kill switch - it sounds to me like, assuming the throttle cables and slides are OK, you most likely have a problem with the needle and seat in at least one of the carbies. My advice would be to pull both carbies off, disassemble them, give them a thorough clean (there is a good thread on using 3-Bond engine conditioner in the maintenance section which would be good for a read) and install new needles / seats and gaskets. I would also drain and thoroughly clean the fuel tank and fuel lines. While you are at it check out the airbox and see what sort of condition the air filter is in. It sounds like the bike may have sat untouched for a while and it's possible the filter may have perished. If that has happened pieces can find their way into the carbie and block things up so that may be all the issue is. Fuel can also evaporate in the float bowls leaving a waxy gum which can play havoc with the needles / seats as well.

    If you are unsure of the history of the bike I would also recommend the following:

    Warm the engine up, drain the gear box oil and add new oil.

    Drain the coolant system and add new coolant.

    Dissassemble, decoke / clean and reinstall the powervalves with new seals / circlips.

    Install new spark plugs.

    Check wheel bearings and swingarm bearings for any sign of wear.

    Pull the barrels off and inspect the barrels and pistons. You shouldn't need to remove the heads so it will only cost you your time and a few base gaskets. There are quite a few sites on the web that give you a run down on piston diagnosis etc which is a very good indication of the jetting amongst other things. If there are any marks on the inside of the barrels, except for the honing marks, take it to your mechanic for an assessment. If the barrels look good I would still recommend replacing the rings (this will cost a few bucks). Make sure you are very careful removing any gasket material left on the case and barrel mating surfaces. These are machined surfaces and any damage, even minor, can potentially wreck the whole motor. Make sure you give the engine a thorough clean before doing any of this so nothing finds it's way in there that shouldn't be there.

    For all of the above, there is plenty of step by step guides on the net (for instance gapping the rings) and I recommend reading as much as you can before you get to work. Once the engine is running well, you can worry about suspension and brakes.

    They cost a few bucks, but I would recommend installing a decent steering dampener. The RGV can be very twitchy over bumps.

    Unfortunately you won't get your money back, that's the reality of working on old bikes (or new for that matter), but you will be rewarded with a sweet running bike.

    Good luck with it all.

    Cheers
    Jim
     
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  16. Fox McScrooge

    Fox McScrooge Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Forgot to add too. I bought some fairings from eBay. I'm pretty happy with the quality. Take a while to ship though. He has an eBay store called parts4bike.
     
  17. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    Hey Edwardo, I dusted the Aprilia off yesterday (same engine in mine as yours) and went for a quick run with the Gopro on the back, I'm obviously sticking to the speed limit in my vids to avoid a date with Johnny Law but I have to say 2 strokes are sooo much fun :thumb_ups:

     
  18. edwardo

    edwardo Well-Known Member Contributing Member

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    Thanks for the in depth reply Jim, great advice.

    I seem to have solved the over revving, I pulled off the throttle cable from the switch block and gave it a drowning in cable lube and that was that.

    Haven't tackled the temp gauge fault yet. It's on the list though.

    As for the motor internals, I was told it had a top end rebuild >100kms ago (apparently sat in the shed), I'm going to assume that was only rings. Powervalves were cleaned and checked and were said to be in good condition. As for rechecking it all, I will be doing a lot of reading that's for sure. Was looking at new pistons but unsure for size of them and rings as I'm yet to measure the cylinders and all that.

    And as for the money issue, I learnt that when I got the zxr haha spent lots of money on that thing that I will never get back lol

    Parts4bike rings a bell, I'm sure I've bought some bits and pieces from that seller before.

    Nice footage there kiffsta. I've only ridden it a few times, and I'm really enjoying it!
     
  19. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Nice to see the blue car at the beginning keeping his distance back from u.

    Stick to the speed limit? .... gee, those cars u pass near the end there must have been travelling really slow! :crazypilot:

    Has it got the stock exhaust on it?
     
  20. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    oh, yes, they were driving very slow, yes my RS250 is 100% stock
     

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