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Pinned So what have you done to your bike today?

Discussion in 'The Pub' started by kiffsta, Nov 3, 2013.

  1. XCite Bikes

    XCite Bikes Parts and Accessories Staff Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    You're welcome to come and pick up (it's a bit cheaper buying directly then going through eBay, since I don't have to pay eBay fees). Because I don't have a shop anymore, and I'm still hunting for a new (affordable) place, people just come to my place to pick up stuff. I'm not available all day long, but we can organise a time. Just text me and we can set a time that works for both of us. 04269191111.
     
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  2. Bob Sykes

    Bob Sykes Active Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Stared at it. Cleaned out the garage/basement. I’m making room for a new-ish bike addition, not a 250 though, a ‘96 CB Seven Fifty RC42. Needs a bit of detail work but that will be fun. Does anybody see or contact @TechHeadFred ? I have sent him a message, I am trying to get some parts to him.
     
  3. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    He hasnt logged in here for a couple of weeks but someone may have his mobile they can message u

    Heres his bike blog ... theres a message thing on there and he has been on recently


    https://fredbuildsbikes.wordpress.com/
     
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  4. risky

    risky risky

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    i have an rc42 and enjoy it.
     
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  5. TechHeadFred

    TechHeadFred Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I've been lurking more than posting! Checked my messages and might be having a day trip to Sydney to collect the parts in a few weeks.
     
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  6. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Well, looks like I have another car motor to pull down :'(
    But turned my attention to the Across: get it ready for a roadworthy, so I can sell something! I put my bike rego into the car to try to offload it, but the car kind of died, so I either cancel the rego and part it out, or fix it?... But if I sell the Across, then I can afford to do the zxr roadworthy and rego. (Before the Texas ride!) Carbies had to come off, again (painful to put back in) and rear brakes were bleed and flushed (the front had to be pull apart and scrubbed clean the other day). But I seemed to find more things every time I fix something. But I did get it started and running - no fuel overflowing this time, despite putting the same o-ring back in the needle seat. Took a bit to start, and wouldn't rev properly with the airbox off, a lot smoke and sputtering, then I realised the choke cable outer was caught, holding the choke on. Worked much better correctly assembled. Not much to do in the morning, but must cover that fibreglass hood: very itchy!
     
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  7. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The trick I found with the Across carbies was to put a piece of timber against the air box side and used a big lever onto the timber to put equal pressure on them. Liberal amounts of rubber grease helps them slide into the rubber manifolds.
    Oh, and remember to have the clamps on and oriented correctly. It’s a bummer when you get the carbies on, airbox in and the realize it all has to come off again because one was left off and then next time one was facing the wrong way..... ask me how I know
    Hope it sells quick for you.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
     
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  8. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    Get onto it lad .... if its a no show at Texas it constitutes a lifetime forum ban

    :D
     
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  9. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    Fizzball out of mothballs for a bit of pre Texas love ... both leaking slightly

    Waiting on a visit from the fork doctor via the letterbox

    riding gear needs a bit of attention also ... move on a few spiders

    :crazypilot:

    IMGP1015 (Medium).jpeg IMGP1016 (Medium).jpeg
     
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  10. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Big Cheese Contributing Member

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    forked fork oil


    should most of it drain out without compressing the forks?



    IMGP1017 (Medium).jpeg
     
  11. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    Yes, but may take a while.
     
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  12. risky

    risky risky

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    found some political correctness today- went to pick up the shed side cladding from stramit but could not get it as the sheets were 3oomm longer than the trailer.trailer is 2.8 metres and sheets were 3.1 metres.
     
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  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Apprentice Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club Contributing Member

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    Decided that the rear was too stiff, seat too high on the ZXR. Adjusted the shock back from position 4 to position 3 (standard). Also adjusted the headlights after.

    I have a new crank breather to be fitted to the airbox.

    Thinking about getting some orange braided brake lines too, fired off an email to HEL Australia but no reply yet...
     
  14. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    You mean the zxr, right? You're not expecting the Across to be there, are you? Though, it might be the Across if I don't get the zxr together and working.

    Looks like I will be wrecking a Daihatsu Sirion - stupid crank bolt won't undo, even broke an extension bar with the rattle gun! IMG_1525244621943.jpg
    So much time and money wasted on it. Time and money that could have gone to bikes, instead. :mad::aggressive::headbang: and anger/frustration
     
  15. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Has anyone got a spare brand new forged 101.8mm centre to centre connecting rod laying around by any chance?
    I'm trying to help a mate out by fixing his engine, it's a $1400AU Daytona Anima 190FDX 4V pitbike engine with a $1000AU MB Factory crank in it, and a $700AU MBF clutch kit
    A new replacement conrod is going to cost me $570AU inc post from Italy
    This crank and rod has only done under 5 hour work, and is usually good for at least 50 hour's

    Mate bought this used crank kit off a guy in UK, but the seller forgot to mention it had been cooked around the gudgeon end of the rod.

    20180503_182752.jpg 20180503_182805.jpg 20180503_182729.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2018
  16. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Pro-x catalog has dimensions for rods, you might find something compatible there. Rod length isn't as critical, as you can put more gaskets under the cylinder or shave it down a little.
     
  17. ruckusman

    ruckusman Well-Known Member Premium Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    @ShaneP I was doing a timing belt on a toyota diesel decades ago and had the same problem - couldn't get the crank bolt to budge - put a well fitting 6 point socket and breaker bar on it and used the starter motor - worked a treat
     
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  18. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yeah i realise this, in this case a 1.7mm shorter conrod convert's a 150cc engine into a 160cc.
    What i'm trying to do is drop the piston speed to help with engine longevity, and gain some torque and power.
    These 190's have 22hp - 23hp at the engine and easily rev out to 12,500rpm
    My Daytona Anima 190 4V was supplied with an adjustable Digital Transistorised ignition, it feature's a 5 stage rev limiter, and 4 stage timing advance
    The rpm limiter is set at 11,500 rpm from the factory,
    and by swapping around a couple of wire's you can change it to, 12,200 rpm, 12,900 rpm, 13,600 rpm or 15,000rpm
    Peak horsepower is made at around 10,200 rpm's, and peak torque is around 7500 rpm

    The Daytona 190 4v has 12/1 compression, and are a square engine, 62mm bore and 62mm stroke so has a 1/1 ratio and make some reasonably reliable power out of the Honda Horizontal OHV, single cylinder air cooled based engine that was first used in 1958.

    I have seen a couple of these Daytona engine's that have failed, usually it's the conrod or the piston failing that's caused it

    What i want to do is to make it into an oversquare engine, (bigger bore than stroke) to lower the piston velocity which will take a lot of stress off the crank, rod and piston and should all last a lot longer. See pic below.
    With the increased surface area of the piston and head it increases the area for heat sink so will run a bit happier with higher compression and not be so highly strung as it is.
    As a comparison the Honda CRF450's are 1.55/1, and F1 engine's can have a ration around 2.5/1

    The new configuration has a 72mm bore with a 49mm stroke so that make's the ratio 1.47/1, so the engine i'm fixing is a 200cc version, which give's it a oversquare ratio a touch bigger than the FZR250R's (1.39/1)



    [​IMG]
     
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  19. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    You mean with the shorter crank radius with the new crank, then? Changing rod length won't be necessary, just lift the cylinder - though the timing chain might be tight.

    Notice the 0.4:1 engine diagram has the conrod hitting the cylinder. That's the problem with long stroke and narrow bore.
     
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  20. ShaneP

    ShaneP Well-Known Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Tried that, didn't work either. I suspect locktight or retainer compound.
     

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