I have my Butane soldering iron / ABS welder so I can use that for the final bolt. As for the tyre, this thing is so stiff. The bead is broken both sides but it just doesn’t want to come off. I can’t kneel on anything right now, my knee won’t take it and until I get it replaced by some trick metal bits I need to find a different way. I am going to try the old cable tie trick, I have lots of cable ties @Linkin, using your you beaut machine at work will just frustrate me more lol. I am hoping that the painted (Powder coated?) part of the rim will come up with a coating of clear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Ok, thanks for the info....I will see how it comes up after a good clean... At least it is a tough finish..just looks a little dull right now.
Do it, I had to watch a few YouTube vids to learn how to change tyres when my Tyre machine showed up.
Go on.. rub it in that we poor amateurs have to make do with the likes of cable ties and cheap chinesium tyre levers (spoons)..
When I was working at a m/cycle repair shop..we had a drum with an old tyre stretched over the top 1/2 filled with cement. A bead braker made up of some old fork tubes and triple trees
While waiting for parts to arrive, I started pulling apart a VT250F engine that was a "runner", but had issues. the PO started the bike when I bought it years ago, but it was clear there was an issue with it. My original diagnosis was a broken cam chain guide holder. Unfortunately, you can't change this without splitting the cases. Having acquired a replacement, I went about getting to the broken one. While pulling the engine apart I noticed a LOT of silicon and other gunk had been used to seal the engine. It was clear it had been apart before. There was some odd things too. Like heads that looked like they'd been around the block a few times, but the pistons looked clean(?) I had to use physical force to remove the gearbox from the cases as the shaft and countershaft had been glued in(?) It wasn't until I put it all back together that I realised why this engine had all these oddities. I'll post the pics and let you figure out what's wrong. The crank and drive shafts are held in place by half moon rings and the shaft ends have a lock-in cylinder and matching hole, the engine is back together as it should be, except...
Another winner. Know anyway to "fix" this? It all lines up nicely if you pull the guts (crank, gearbox etc) out of the cases. Unfortunately, that's no use to me.
Which half of the cases does the "gut" fit? Probably going to have to find a complete case set that suits the internals.. eeek.. might not be so easy to identify.
The "guts" fit both cases fine. I should have taken a pic when I had the crank and gearbox seated (I put these back together upside down). The difference is in the rear of the cases where the gearbox and drive are; the front lines up okay. I will junk these cases and see what I can find to replace them. Most of the internals are fine, just need to give the heads a good going over and check that the mains bearings are matching sets.
Today's project has been adapting the exhaust to fit both a wideband o2 and a different backbox for grins and giggles. Took a 2.5" 3 bolt flange (which was a mistake in retrospect- I think I need to remake this part) and a 2.5" to 2.0" reducer, welded them together, and added a bung for a wideband I scored cheap on Amazon Warehouse deals a while back... it's a work in progress, but I really dig it.
I just ducked the road to pick up a couple of bikes, in Cairns. 2200km in about 40hours. I'm feeling a little ordinary, now, for some reason. Probably all the junk food I ate...