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Help SoulJets Megelli Issues

Discussion in 'Megelli 250cc' started by SoulJet, Aug 3, 2015.

  1. SoulJet

    SoulJet Member

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    Hi there Risky,

    I read a few posts from you on megellis already and have to say you do a great job to help out those in need with these bikes, thank you so much for your help. I was hoping you could help me here too..

    I got my bike new back here in NZ just recently from a dealer but it's a 06/2011 model. From brand new I had this metally click/tick when the motor is running. Seems irrespective of gears and whether I drive or not. It's the same whichever way you rev the engine.
    Gets significantly louder when the engine warms up. Tightening the camchain does not seem to change it. Can a noise like that come from valves? Seems like it definitely comes from the top of the motor. If I was to adjust the valves what torque do you set the nuts to? Also can the tensioner be badly inserted? It seemed to have some friction when I slid the rod out one click. It is just a ratchet right? Nothing hydraulic on these bikes?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Is it fuel injected or carby? Does the noise get faster as the revs increase?

    Ticking from the top end is usually just valve noise. Valves on the loose end of the clearance spec are generally noisier.
     
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  3. SoulJet

    SoulJet Member

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    Cheers for a reply Linkin. It's a carby. The noise is synchronized with motor speed so yes it does. Becomes harder to hear when revving high as it sort of becomes less "metally" and more of a clack.

    I am up to 1300 kms at the moment and have not been able to check the valve clearances yet unfortunately. The noise gets frickin loud though after a long-ish ride. Very irritating. Could be one valve which is very loud possibly but can a valve clearance really make that much noise..
     
  4. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Try some lower viscosity oil next oil change. If you're using 15W-40, try 10W-30.

    How quickly does your oil light go out when cold starting the bike?
     
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  5. SoulJet

    SoulJet Member

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    Yes i thought of that. I am currently using motul mineral 10W-40 as running in oil. I have done 2 oil changes already cleaning out all three strainers so it's all clean. The manual states 5W-40 so i assume that's semi-synthetic or full synthetic not sure which but both will provide better lubrication than mineral i assume. If no luck with camchain and/or valve clearances then will resort to that however can't think that it's good to run heavier oil than stated in the manual.. especially on a new bike.

    The oil light does not shine on these things before ignition.
     
  6. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    It may also be worthwhile pulling off the rocker cover and inspecting the cams for wear if you think the noise is more than just regular tappet/shim bucket noise.

    @Grasshopper 's FZR makes a consistent ticking noise ever since we changed the shims to set the valve clearances. Our target was for the loose end of the clearance spec. It's hard to capture on video, but you wouldn't hear it with your helmet on while sitting on the bike, it's subtle, like injectors firing on an EFI car.
     
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  7. SoulJet

    SoulJet Member

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    Thanks for all your replies mate. Yep, will be doing that if all fails.. It sounds like camchain noise but I tensioned it and it made no difference. It will have to be one noisy valve to make all that racket.. Clearly hear it with my tight fit helmet which seals sound off pretty good. When i pull off the helmet and listen to it it is just crap.
     
  8. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Pull the tensioner off. If it's fully extended then the chain is rooted. Check the springs and ratchet mechanism.

    The chain on my blue FZR was stretched by 5mm. Half a centimetre. Doesn't seem like much, but it meant the engine was constantly noisy under 6k RPM.
     
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  9. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    If its a brand new bike from a dealer and it has a problem why hasnt it gone back to the dealer ?
     
  10. SoulJet

    SoulJet Member

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    When the tensioner is to be pulled off, the bike has to be dead upright and motor can't be allowed to turn is that right? Never actually pulled a tensioner out before. Was going to a few times on my suzuki gsx250 invader but didn't need to in the end.
     
  11. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Definitely don't turn the motor. As for the rest, shouldn't really matter, but if you pull the rocker cover off, just set the engine to TDC on Cyl 1 compression stroke and then take the tensioner off.
     
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  12. SoulJet

    SoulJet Member

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    Well... that's a big screw up. Got it from a well known dealership in a different city far away because it was the only place I knew where I could get this thing new. I was lucky to get the bike because the dealer went bankrupt just before I paid him as it turned out. There were all kinds of other issues with aesthetics of the bike when it arrived but the dealer basically disappeared and lied to me about an arrangement with a dealer here to do warranty work. Importers seem to be helpful though.
     
  13. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    If the tensioner is out and you rotate the crank, you risk jumping a tooth and getting the timing out of whack... which can equal bent valves if the engine is run in that condition.

    TDC on cyl 1 is just convenient as that's where the crank and camshaft timing marks will all line up.

    Recommend you have the bike in neutral while doing this.
     
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  14. SoulJet

    SoulJet Member

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    Thanks for all the help mate. I just meant to ask why does it have to be TDC? As long as the engine does not turn when the tensioner is out, it does not matter at which instant in the stroke the tensioner is pulled out doesn't it?
     
  15. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    It doesn't have to be, it's just handy. I pulled the tensioner out on my FZR while I was living in Sydney with no ill effects... that was before I became more mechanically inclined (working in IT)
     
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  16. SoulJet

    SoulJet Member

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    Ok man, thanks a lot. I will give it a shot. It's a bit crude finding TDC on these thigs that's all. Basically just gotta line up when both inlet valves are closed according to risky (i think). Will give it a shot. Strange to think though that chain is rooted if bike is new. But you don't know until you check.
     
  17. risky

    risky risky

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    megelli,s use a zongshen motor .inlet valve clearance is 6 thou and exhaust is 8 thou. when the valves tighten then the bike is hard to start when hot. oil filter is near clutch housing. has 2 x 6 mm nuts holding in. wash in petrol as may have metal in it. if noise is down low will be starter over run cog and is a warranty issue.motors do not have a good reputation.to get to valve adjustment tank off, battery out and upper engine mount off.wind motor over by back wheel in gear and valve timing is quick so 2 person job. best of luck as if valve clearance is not the issue then i dio not know of spares situation in nz but nothing here.i run semi synthetic 10/40 with no issues.
     
  18. risky

    risky risky

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    also importer here said to run in hard a chinese tolerances not good.i often have mine in the redline .
     
  19. SoulJet

    SoulJet Member

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    Thank you for the reply risky. I will give it a try with the camchain and valves and if no luck hopefully i can get things done under warranty through importer. What did you mean by that last post?
     
  20. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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