go for it m8..the timings easy..a bit harder is slotting the cylinder bores over the rings..there's a definite knack to it on this specific engine..no tools required but it has to be right..when you get your rings and just before putting the 'block' back any issues then give us a shout..and get a mate to help out..you need three hands as a minimum!!! Don't worry about the rings being non oem..I know people might think that all that comes from china isn't that good but cost factored in they've done what the oem ones would do..and the tolerances were within next to nothing measured against genuine sgp (plus/minus 1 thou..i couldn't measure any smaller as my tool kits good but not as I'd want ) ones otherwise I wouldn't of even put them in on the last rebuild in the first place..think you'll be surprised . No ideas as to longevity though...time will tell. Anyways working hard on the year end accounts this side so break over I shall hit the books..tell me you checked the timing prior to dismantling the top end..common issue is mis timing the cams if its been apart before and done by a butcher..even though its simple..no compression and every fourth stroke or so bang the compressions back..engine will sound totally flat and lifeless then every so often quicken on the starter motor..though more often than not stays flat as a pancake as the engines inertia is what overcomes the timing isue..until the revs get over about 3 or 4k revs..and then it can be made to sort of run by its own inertia taking over as it fires and cylinders 1 and 4 (partially timed) sort of try to pull it through..I rebuilt one like that about two years ago for a guy in the lake district..everything he'd touched was either bodged or wrong..a days work and a good result..anyways signing off for now keep us posted good luck andi'll catch up weekend coming as im hopefully off!!! Cheers boss see yus soon, Si
A simple test, while the head is off, for the condition of the valve and seats is to pour fuel into the ports and check to see if it leaks into the combustion chamber or vice versa. One more thing - You did force the slides open when you did the compression test, or removed the carbs? cheers Blair
Hi Mate, Yeh I did open the carbies up the first time, the second time I took the carbies off completely. Simon what is the actual timing? I noticed you haven't uploaded the manual yet but are you able to scan that page for me please? The symptoms you're describing seem similar to what I was experiencing but the fact it ran on a push again tells me that the timing couldn't be that far out.
Just been reading your thread ~ timings out mate..firing is definitely coil 1 (LHS engine as you sit on the bike) 1 and 4, and coil 2 is cylinders 2 and 3..if you read my response to your other thread then i'm pretty much sure you've got a basic timing issue..looked at that picture of your pick up assembly again and its deffo off a different bike..(not a gsf250v either as i've just checked with one in the garage for you m8)..change the rotor for a genuine one and set the timing off that and assuming no damage to the new parts then I bet yus it'll run..the previous owner has had the rotor replaced to get around a misfiring issue - look for one or more of the three stator motor wire being discoloured ( yellow of three lengths going back up the loom near the battery tray to recharcharge the battery via the reg/rect..my bet is at least ones discoloured or showing signs of being burnt)..changed the pickup for a similar model and when it didn't run passed it on..wager a fiver bet without seeing it buddy..not sure what ring and piston damage you found on strip down but my guess is nothing that could be seen m8 Let us know how you get on boss cheers si
Simon is correct. That does not look like a genuine ignition assembly. It looks like an aftermarket item. Does it have a brand name?
Well according to the fiches there are two options for the signal generator rotor. I've got one of them, and in a conversation with simon it's likely to be the one for the bike with the HP restricted to under 40. Which sounds right, as the model I have is the restricted one (GSF250P). I can't see any obvious problems on the stator wires, I fully checked that out earlier and it looks good. When I stripped her down I admit I couldn't find anything obvious but I replaced two pistons and all the rings anyway (I was skeptical about one but I could get a good deal on two and four sets of rings). The low compression numbers were a bit worrying considering the bike did start and ran pretty well but only from a decent push (wouldn't start from the ignition). Anyway she's almost back together now. Just got to do the timing, reassemble the clutch and throw her back on and check compression again - fingers crossed!!!
Well that information about the rotor sounds good. And you deglazed the bore? As for firing order. The plug leads are not connected in the firing order. They are numbered 1 to 4 and those numbers represent which cylinder they connect to, not the firing order. Cylinder 1 being the left most when sitting on the bike. The coil for 1 & 4 is shared, and it fires both, even though one of them will be on the exhaust stroke. Likewise with the coil for 2 & 3. If you consider 1 as being first then the firing order is actually (1 & 4), (2 & 3), (1 & 4), (2 & 3). cheers Blair
Thanks mate. Yeh I found that pretty quick with the cylinder head off lol. Honestly the thread is way behind where I'm at now, I'm sweet on everything except maybe the timing, but I think I'm gonna trust what the GJ73A manual says. Any tips on the cam chain tensioner and where to let the slack go? People have told me to have the slack between the intake cam sprocket and the crank shaft sprocket, install the tensioner (it's an automatic tensioner) put a squirt of oil around here and there and crank the engine a bit which should see it tighten up. I'm a bit nervous about skipping some teeth though, even when the tensioner in the chain is slacking inbetween the cam sprockets.
Well... got her back together to see what she does and whoops compression numbers are even lower. Can't see why, 2 new pistons and 4 new sets of rings - maybe the rings are stuck in the grooves or something. May put some oil down the spark plug hole in the hope it loosens things up a bit. The only other problem it could be is the valves... I did "clean up" the exhaust valves that were back stacked with carbon, may have been masking some clearance issues.
Well I just did the timing myself, and it was pretty straightforward. So unless it's skipped a tooth not sure that would be the issue. But doesn't hurt to check. Valve clearances I didn't check though. It was something I was hoping I could get away with doing later heh...
stu just mailed you the info you need on that other thread thing mate..having a night in tonight so any q's and i'll get back to yus pronto!!!
Timing pics, looks right to me. Cam chain guide is on the underside of the valve cover so I put the cover on before rotating the crank (otherwise the chain skips upwards on the teeth slightly).
Aye up mate you owe us a tinney for this one lol..ur engine is a restricted version boss..camchain is still too loose..remove tensioner and wind in..replace tensioner as per manual..release tension as per spring and turn crankshaft over a few times to make sure timing alignment is good..time it off the first line after the T going clockwise - the ecu or cdi will compensate/learn between the two as it can accommodate +13.6 and -13.7deg..hence the two lines..ensure plugs /wires are as blair says, 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 as they fire on both upward and downward strokes..come back to us with results boss.. cheers si
lol thanks for the help mate. These photos are without the tensioner in. I put the tensioner in afterward and then put the cover on, as the cam chain guide at the top is actually attached to the inside of the cover as you would know. If I put the tensioner in without the cover on, the chain goes tight but then jumps up slightly and sits very high on the teeth. I'll take the cover off and show you the photo. I may be doing it wrong but if I rotate in that situation the chain actually starts to slide over the sprockets rather than engaging them so I'm not sure what's going on. I tried to take all the slack out of it by keeping it tight between the sprockets and loose between the crank and the intake sprocket but it made no difference. Action the tensioner and it jumps. Now it could be that the cam chain itself is stretched but I am skeptical on that one. Simon, just reading your comments there - is it definitely the first line AFTER the "T" rather than the T itself? This is pretty important lol. I've read both of them and I had it on the mark after the T as per the GJ73A manual but maybe I made it wrong again.... that would explain a lot!! :S
definitely but if I commented with bad advice then couldn't live with the outcome m8..i'll go back to the engine 74a tmoz take pics and post the manual and the engine i'm halfway through building up.. sure your working with a pick up that's restricting bhp by retarding the ignition as its way beyond the 38deg static permissible..certain ur running a cdi or pick up that are running against each other as its for sure a no go based on timing/compression..don't turn it over lol..best guess is that your right some idiot timed it 180 degrees opposed but about one tooth out..possibly two..but your not..just need to work out the static timing and from there all's good..stu any chance rocker cover off, plug removed off cyinder 1, screwdriver in cyl1 in conjunction with the pick up cover removed...100pc certain its a spark/compression issue based on your findings..you tube it or on here and i'll do my best to help m8, Cheers, si
Well, don't know if this is good news or bad news. Gave it another crack and this is where she ended up. Notice the grooves at the end of the cams aren't parallel to the engine. They can't be at TDC I tried everything, unless the 16 pins is wrong (but it's not from what I can tell). I checked the compression, same reading so it didn't make a difference. Hmm....
Here's my last attempt, I've done it to death. #1 is 85 psi (125 wet) #2 is 135 psi #3 is 100 psi #4 is 100 psi After a last attempt this weekend I think parting her out would give me a little satisfaction, next time I'll start with a non-imported bike that has a bit more information around.
Well, I had a bit of a brainwave today. Stupid of me not to click on this earlier. I was actually out by 180 degrees on the timing. Should be on the compression stroke TDC not the exhaust stroke TDC. Having fixed that up, compression numbers are a little more respectable (all dry) 125/125/125/100. That's actually better than what it was when I got it so that's progress, right? I figure now I need to piece the rest of the bike back together and try a push start if she doesn't start off the key (I'm doubting she will but I'll try anyway). Last ditch effort before she becomes pieces to give others a bit of hope (a glorified way of saying wrecked!)