Hi All, This post relates to my 1983 Honda VT250F, but might apply to other bikes... The VT has a vacuum petcock where a hose (26) runs from the rear cylinder vacuum pipe to the petcock (6) and creates a vacuum when the engine is running. The petcock has three setting, ON, OFF and RES. ON gives you fuel from the main (15) inlet; RES gives you fuel from the reserve inlet (14); and OFF lets the fuel balance between the two inlets, but no fuel will flow from the tube that feeds the front carb (16). The tube shown as 24 is an atmosphere tube. When the vacuum diaphragm (6) isn't working properly (for whatever reason) the carbs don't get fuel. My question to those more learned than I is why do I need a petcock anyway? The bike seems to run fine when I plug the vacuum tube (26) and just feed fuel into the carbs directly (bypassing the petcock altogether. A simple fuel tap between the tank fuel lines and the front carb seems to work fine. I assume there might be some issues with venting the tank maybe? Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Also, this bike is for track days only. Cheers Frank
cannot speak for honda but a vacuum operated petcock was originally on all megelli,s. the importer changed to a normal flow one and a lot of issues disappeared.
Because the fuel tank is above the carburettor, when the float needles fail the fuel is free to flow into the cylinders. Then when you come out in the morning to start your bike the engine tries to compress a liquid, which it cannot, so it bends your connecting rods and your engine is toast. This condition is known as hydraulic lock. It can also occur when the vacuum style petcocks fail.
So if the fuel is only flowing (turned on) when the engine is running you should never experience hydraulic lock?
If the engine was running it would flood and stall. Then if the condition was not rectified a fire might start and of course it can lead to the lock condition.
Ok, so based on this I can only assume my floats and needles are working properly as I've had the engine running for 15-20 min bursts without a petcock and gravity feeding fuel into the carbs. As the floats rise they're cutting fuel entering the bowels until the floats drop enough for the needle and seat to let more fuel in. Is that right?
I have to say the VT250F runs great without the vacuum petcock (seems to rev quicker), but I was concerned that I might be going to damage something by modifying the fuel delivery system and removing the petcock from the equation. I wonder if the vacuum petcock is used to meter fuel into the bowls and help fuel economy more than it is to aid performance. As a track bike I don't care about fuel economy, but I also don't want to be blowing engines up.
if you turn the petcock off when bike not in use then no problem. do i turn my petcocks off- only when i remove fuel line. float and valve work perfectlyif no dirt enters. now the diesel motor is a different story- bent rod from head gasket leak and water trapped in cylinder.new rod is 450$ plus all parts and i am contemplating a new diesel motor at 5 plus. did i do it-no,previous owner did.
Hi Guys, I hate to keep banging on about this, but I'm curious about a few things... My ZXR250A (with a C engine) drag bike has a complex series of vacuum devices (fuel tap & vacuum valve). There are hoses from some carbs (2/3) going to the fuel tap and others (1/4) going to the vacuum valve. The fuel petcock has 3 settings...ON, RES & PRI. When I run the bike I normally run it on RES. I'm wondering what will happen if I throw all this vacuum stuff away an just run the bike on PRI when the engine's running? As long as all the vacuum points are sealed properly, I'm guessing it will be fine. Comments/thoughts? Frank
PRIME by passes the vacuum valve, so I would think without the fuel hitting the vacuum diaphragm inside the petcock it would just gravity feed..
I'm thinking gravity feed is enough. I can't see the benefit of vacuums when I'm holding throttle wide open.
Can someone explain to me what the Vacuum Valve does on a ZXR250C? The ZXR250A does not have this valve on its engine. As per the attached diagram, the vacuum from cylinders 1 and 4 seems to affect the flow rate from the fuel tank (via the Fuel tap; the vacuum from cylinders 2 and 3 goes to the vacuum valve. The vacuum valve has 4 inlets/outlets...one for the hose from cylinders 2 and 3; one that goes to the airbox (?); one that goes to atmosphere and my personal favourite, one that goes back to the carbs (shown as 6 in the attached diagram). I'm thinking of throwing all this away and just running my (drag) bike on PRI (prime) fuel setting. I assume plugging all the vacuum spots on the carbs will be fine, but pipe 6 will need to remain to allow the carbs to have atmosphere? Yes/No/Maybe?
It's a belts and braces thing. Turning the tap off will stop the fuel flow. A correct working vacuum valve will stop the fuel when the bike is stopped. With both on a good needle and seat will stop the fuel flow. However... If the vacuum fails and you let the bike sit without turning the tap off potentially your fuel will drain through to your carbs. Then if your floats (needle and seat) are not up to scratch the fuel will flow through to your cylinders. Then if your rings are not 100% petrol tight (which they are not) then the fuel will flow into your gearbox mixing with the oil. Which sucks. I like to keep as many barriers between myself and this happening.
Hey Greggie, Thanks for details. I've actually seen this happen on my original ZXR engine. I bought the bike as a non-runner and when i got it home I did the normal check before trying to diagnose the problem...when I dumped the oil there was so much fluid in there that my oil tray overflowed! You could tell by the smell and viscosity that there was more fuel than oil. Blair from LiteTek mentioned possible hydraulic lock issues as well, but the rings on my original engine let most of the fuel through to the bottom of the engine. Thanks to everyone for your help. I have ordered a couple of straight through fuel taps and some rubber plugs. I'll fit them next week. Cheers