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Project Yamaha SRX 250 3WP

Discussion in 'Your 250cc Projects' started by Andych, Oct 9, 2016.

  1. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    I wouldn't worry about it, the carbon will soon cover it.
     
  2. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    That is what I figured.. It seems these engines are a little prone to detonation.. maybe I will run it on 98.. I am not sure the higher octane fuel will help though. Mine might end up worse as the cams are slightly hotter but I think the compression is down just a touch at 9.4:1 which will help.
     
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  3. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I had a scrap piece of my Gloss Carbon Fibre wrap so I had a play to see what it would look.
    I will need some of the wrap glue for the edges and a bit of heat to get it to sit right ( the wrap is thicker than plain color) and the rear cover for the tacho needs to be painted wrinkle finish but it doesn’t look too bad.
    I am just not sure.
    The standard finish is like a satin brushed alloy but is corroded and needs to be covered somehow.
    This is the standard face
    ce2b413dcd3e705ad7f574880b145230.jpg

    Wrapped (roughly) with speedo and tacho in Place. No holes for the idiot lights yet.

    eb01479d611ce5ef084db51decfea918.jpg

    From behind. The tacho cover needs to be painted with wrinkle finish paint and the tacho mount needs finish painting black.

    e102270f38945bc8a361df33b39dc428.jpg

    I might look at some Satin finish brushed SS wrap to see what that would look like. Maybe the black is just too much.

    Opinions welcomed


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  4. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    This is how it looks on the bike

    dd0be5d8d5d967818e34aa5b4328470d.jpg


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  5. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I have just bought some of the wrap listed below.. for $9 it is worth it just to see how it would look compared to the Carbon Fibre wrap.
    It will be a more correct look compared to the Carbon Fibre look.. I ordered some primer as well.. just to make the hard corners stick better..
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/202485997619
     
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  6. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    My Bike:
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    So, my dilemma with the oils feed to the head when going to a 350 barrel.
    The 350 head is fed oil externally from the clutch cover to the head. This is done internally with the 250 barrel and it needs to be blanked off to eliminate the potential for oil leaks.
    The following pics show the oil gallery, the tube and the tube fitted as well as a grub screw I may be able to braze or silver solder into the tube to block it off permanently.
    Depending on if my propane gas torch will braze or silver solder that is lol

    06ca5210eeb942c9a1771de9d38eeffc.jpg

    7b62ccbdb956fe97b4a41ec2d13c53f7.jpg

    48b5337e79724c19c77eb2e27aac6859.jpg

    c72875c17396fedf24832d1d1d90b307.jpg

    52b7ad4b7979178f5561d584d5897e0d.jpg

    f0cb357b3ffe86e9e06e75729c778ca0.jpg

    All ideas and opinions welcomed


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  7. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    I assume the tube in the bottom pic is the one you want to silver solder, in which case I think that it is a good solution. Propane is not hot enough.
     
  8. Frankster

    Frankster See the World before you leave it Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew

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    I've never done it, but can you put a welsh plug in the hole?
     
  9. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Be wary of trying to block the hole, the wall is too thin.
    tmp.jpg
     
  10. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    My original thought was to get a 1/4 gas plug and tap the outer hole in the case as that would solve the issue but I need a slightly larger plug as the tube is already 10mm OD.
    It would also need to be very short so it didn’t stick out into the chain tunnel.

    I had considered filling the riser (where the purple arrow is) with JB Weld just to get some extra sealing surface as there isn’t a lot there on this modification.
    I did consider using JB weld to keep the grub screw captive inside the tube, filled from both ends but I am not sure on the longevity of JB Weld when in contact with hot oil at pressure.
    I guess my best option is to find an engineering house that will Silver Solder or Braze a plug ( grub screw ) into the tube while not mangling it.
    I no longer have use for Oxy. I could always just solder the thing in. It isn’t under stress and I doubt hot oil would melt solder.
    If the engine gets hot enough to melt the solder it will die before a catastrophic loss of oil would worry it.



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  11. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  12. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    My Bike:
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    While I was having a close look at the gauges I wasnt happy with the glass in the Tacho. It appeared to be dirty inside the glass.. so... I carefully opened up the flange ring so that I could get the cover off the spare tacho I have.. then I started cleaning.. the glass seemed to have like a residue on the glass inside, probably from some glue holding a gasket in place.
    It is all cleaned up now and the outer ring etc has been painted so all I need to do now is open up the flange ring on the SRX250 tacho (the spare was an SRX400 with lower max revs of 9000) and then reassemble and re-crimp the flange ring.. Easy...lol

    Here as the bits laid out for cleaning.

    UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_1301.jpg
     
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  13. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    So I scored a couple of items from Zenmarket last night... the SRX-600 Clip-on's and also a couple of SRX-400 Engine pipes.
    The engine pipes are pretty much the same shape as the engine pipes for the SRX250 but are seperate pipes and made from SS.
    They may need some cutting and welding to fit properly but it will still be a lot cheaper than the $$ quoted to make them up.

    SRX handlebars.jpg

    1JK Exhaust pipes A.jpg

    1JK Exhaust Pipes B.jpg
     
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  14. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    My cleaned and repainted Tacho

    b8812c917bd55f9009130d0cb43e3e40.jpg

    I will need to decide which headlight to use too.
    I have the SRX600 which is a 7 inch reflector

    1f794fc9c6797bb8d1431e6c3cc5cc8b.jpg

    23a6e026d86183d8854aaa555be4f34c.jpg

    Or the SRX250 3WP which is a 6.5 inch reflector but a much smaller bucket.

    4507cccfaebba5354cc34042f4fe7b36.jpg

    eeccb65c65544726d80d668b48fef821.jpg

    Both require mods to fit. The SRX600 has to have the lower mounts moved up by 20mm to suit the shorter stem and the 3WP needs a mounting bracket made for the bottoms mount.
    The 3WP is much lighter and easier to paint as it is plastic. The big one needs to be blasted and either re-chromed or painted.
    It’s all pointing to the 3WP as the preferred option I think.


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  15. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Premium Member Ride and Events Crew Contributing Member

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    I suggest silver brazing the plug into the tube. Would not feel comfortable with the epoxy as you said heat and hot oil under pressure will probably loosen it.
    See my post about recrimping the speedo on my Kawasaki F2tr for ideas.
     
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  16. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Thanks for the tip on the re-crimping @Murdo . Unfortunately my Tacho doesnt have a flange like that one but I am going to use a similar idea... I will get a worm drive clamp and tighten it up around the outside of the ring.. with protection for the paint.
    that stops it deforming as you tap the crimp ring down.. at least that is the theory anyway.
    I will leave it for a week or so to let Clear dry properly before doing anything like that.
     
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  17. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

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    Something to consider also is the 7" headlight will be easier to get replacement or upgrade the reflector in the future.
     
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  18. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I had thought of that but... I doubt that I will keep this one very long.. it was always meant to be a stepping stone to a larger, better bike and I have the CB400/4 now (will need lots of work) and a CB250 coming.
    This one will help fund some of the CB works once it is finished..maybe lol

    Ir is fairly easy to prepare both headlights for fitment.. the brackets are easy and the rest is just blasting and paint.. both are H4 55/60 with the larger one having a parking light fitment.. so that would need to be added in.
     
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  19. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    My Brushed SS wrap (or is it brushed alloy) arrived so I grasped the other cluster plate and did a rough wrap to compare.
    I am not sure which one I like now.
    The brushed metal is closer to the original look. But the CF looks quite good and matches up ok with the black wrinkle finish paint.
    Plenty of time to make up my mind lol.

    IMG_4378.jpg


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  20. Andych

    Andych Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Both look better with the idiot lights fitted.
    I still need to buff the blue cover a little more on the edges.

    10fffe836ec3ad4fc1f753b3bfb65b84.jpg

    8aef918f7f1fec6ea1fbef868671ea6b.jpg


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