/ Register

  1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Yamaha YDS3 Cafe

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc 2 Strokes' started by phoxxanator, Dec 21, 2013.

Page 2 of 2
  1. phoxxanator

    phoxxanator Active Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Connecticut USA
    My Bike:
    Yamaha YDS3
    Helps a lot, thanks. Left side seal looks good, can't get the friggin' rotor off the right side to check that seal...need to find a bolt to thread in there and make a puller.

    Also looks like someone resealed the right hand side cylinder to the top of the crankcase, will check that for leaks after I get a look at this seal.
     
    phoxxanator, Mar 22, 2014
    #21
  2. risky

    risky risky

    Messages:
    4,555
    Likes Received:
    1,177
    Trophy Points:
    923
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    risky by name AND actions
    Location:
    newcastle,australia
    My Bike:
    honda ca77, megelli x2,fzr yamaha x 5 ,maxim,cb750.cb600 hornet,zxr250,marusho magnum electra.
    i would replace both side seals and the base gasket. because a seal looks good it aint necessarily so.
     
    risky, Mar 22, 2014
    #22
  3. 74bajabronco

    74bajabronco Member

    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    2
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2014
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Retail
    Location:
    Berlin, CT
    My Bike:
    1966 Yamaha YDS3 250 2s
    phoxxanator,
    Hello fellow yds3 owner!
    I just happened upon your post as I was searching for some yds3 info.
    So, I decided to join the forum group as I qualify being a 250 owner. (and you can never have too much help)

    I picked up my 66 a few years back. She had been sitting idle in a basement for twenty some years.
    The bike had a seized piston and a nasty gas tank. I replaced the cylinders, pistons, gaskets, air filter, lot's of rubber parts, fuel petcock, fuel lines, cleaned the carbs, replaced the chain, replaced brake pads, cleaned and epoxy lined the fuel tank.

    When I first got the bike running it was behaving exactly as you described... revving wildly. Off the the vintage repair shop where they replaced crank seals and set the timing for me (I had no experience with this) and she runs very well now. The bike is all stock and I am using the Yamaha Lube system, so far so good, I just don't rev the hell out of her when I'm at the stop light. I am currently replacing the clutch cable assembly, sump & speedo gasket and a few small things to prepare for this ride season. I wanted to change the fork oil but have read some nightmare stories of getting the fork apart without damaging it and some difficulty with removing/replacing seals.
    My fork is not leaking but weeps a little. Can you give me a little guidance on how you disassembled your fork? Tools, technique, pics? I just discovered the small screws on the bottom of the fork so I may just start by changing the oil for now.

    Let me know if you have any questions I have rounded up a few manuals with parts diagrams.

    Have you posted any pics of your bike yet?

    Thank you,
    Craig
     
    74bajabronco, Apr 8, 2014
    #23
  4. phoxxanator

    phoxxanator Active Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Connecticut USA
    My Bike:
    Yamaha YDS3
    Hi all, quick question:
    I'm trying to do the timing because I just can't get cylinder on the right side, (#2, according to parts manifest) to fire. It's got good coil, new plug, new wire, new points, correct gap on the points, but still wont go. Left side (#1) runs beautifully. (I put in a new gasket on #2, and new piston rings, and solved all those run-away and air leak issues I was having before.)

    Does anyone know if the spark plugs on this bike fire with the points open or the points shut? (my occasionally knowledgeable friend said it's with them open in this case.) And if anyone has any advice/experience/tips-for-the-novice, lay 'em on me.

    Thanks!
     
    phoxxanator, May 17, 2014
    #24
  5. phoxxanator

    phoxxanator Active Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Connecticut USA
    My Bike:
    Yamaha YDS3
    Also, @ 74bajabronco: Didn't see your post until just now, sorry. Are you really in Berlin, Connecticut? I'm down in Groton!!

    As for your fork woes:
    I got mine off using no more tools than are in my regular household/automotive tool kit - screwdrivers, wrenches, and the like. Taking them off was a bit of a juggling act, but once I propped up the front of the bike frame on some timbers I disassembled the entire front end (inc. the light) and got the fork shocks separated. Mine are held on with a big whopping bolt at the top of each, I had to use channel-locks on those bad boys.

    Those small screws you found are the drain holes; I used them to pull the old fluid out. I tried to capture as much as I could to see if I could get an accurate idea of how much was in them. To do this I pulled them off one at a time and pumped them (with that port open) into a glass beaker. it went...ok. After that I pulled them apart by unthreading the flange that holds the springs from the reservoir below it. I had to use a strap wrench on one, but the other was finger-tight. With those off they just slide apart - try to keep the parts from jumping off and rolling under the Saab!

    I was after leaky seals, but everything on the inside of mine was up-to-snuff, so I cleaned them and put them back together. I got Honda SS-8/10w at the MC shop across from my house and put 200cc in each. To fill 'em I put each shock back together and poured the fluid in through bolt holes at the top and made sure they sealed real well when I put the front end back together. You'll see the O-rings on the bolts and know what I mean.

    Good luck!! Let me know I you're in state, I can always lean more about this bike. Also, what vintage shop did you use? I'm trying to avoid going to one, but I may have to. I'll try to post some pictures tonight.
     
    phoxxanator, May 17, 2014
    #25
  6. phoxxanator

    phoxxanator Active Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Connecticut USA
    My Bike:
    Yamaha YDS3
    • Like Like x 1
    phoxxanator, May 17, 2014
    #26
  7. risky

    risky risky

    Messages:
    4,555
    Likes Received:
    1,177
    Trophy Points:
    923
    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    risky by name AND actions
    Location:
    newcastle,australia
    My Bike:
    honda ca77, megelli x2,fzr yamaha x 5 ,maxim,cb750.cb600 hornet,zxr250,marusho magnum electra.
    with the points clean the contact surfaces with thinners to take off protective coating and is your battery fully charged as i had the earlier model and only ran on one cylinder if charge was low.
     
    risky, May 17, 2014
    #27
  8. phoxxanator

    phoxxanator Active Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Connecticut USA
    My Bike:
    Yamaha YDS3
    UPDATE:
    Got a new battery, it's slick and black and nice, but that didn't change anything. Still wondering if it was the coils/plugs I swapped both sets and put them on the opposite cylinders - coil+wire+plug from #1 swapped to #2, stuff from #2 running #1. Amazingly, the problem went with it! #2 started running beautifully, and #1 stopped doing anything!
    So I put a new plug in #1, and voila! Both cylinders ran, and it was glorious!


    ....So of course that was too good to last. After I let it warm up I revved her up to about 3k, and #2 backfired a bit, got a little smoky, died, and is still dead.

    Running too rich in #2 and fouling the 'plugs? I'm reading up on carb tuning now...any advice for the newbie?
     
    phoxxanator, Jun 7, 2014
    #28
  9. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

    Messages:
    5,108
    Likes Received:
    3,477
    Trophy Points:
    1,148
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Thailand
    Home Page:
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR400 3TJ1, Honda MC22
    Don't start changing jets etc. Something is wrong. It is difficult to say what but it sounds like the choke is stuck on.
    cheers
    Blair
     
    maelstrom, Jun 7, 2014
    #29
  10. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

    Messages:
    6,400
    Likes Received:
    4,788
    Trophy Points:
    1,148
    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    Tamworth, NSW
    My Bike:
    1937 Royal Enfield 250, CF Moto 250 V5, Honda's XL250, CBR250, FT500 plus a few others.
    Also check your condenser. A crook condenser will give symtums like carb trouble.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    Murdo, Jun 10, 2014
    #30
  11. phoxxanator

    phoxxanator Active Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Connecticut USA
    My Bike:
    Yamaha YDS3
    Found something interesting - no spark on the bum cylinder. Have 2 spare condensers (bike came with a big box of parts) so I threw one on, no change. May not be the carb after all.

    Should I re-do the points again? Check wiring harness? remember this coil/wire/plug worked in the other cylinder...
     
    phoxxanator, Jun 20, 2014
    #31
  12. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

    Messages:
    6,400
    Likes Received:
    4,788
    Trophy Points:
    1,148
    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    Tamworth, NSW
    My Bike:
    1937 Royal Enfield 250, CF Moto 250 V5, Honda's XL250, CBR250, FT500 plus a few others.
    Did you check the condenser first? Why are they in the box?
    I would be checking the circuit through the points to make sure there is power getting to the coil in question with a multi meter to make sure of no broken wires or shorts to earth.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    Murdo, Jun 21, 2014
    #32
  13. phoxxanator

    phoxxanator Active Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    73
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Connecticut USA
    My Bike:
    Yamaha YDS3
    Hello All!
    I haven't been here much because I've been out riding! Finally solved all the issues by - get ready for it - switching back to the original, 7-8 year old spark plugs! apparently the new, "compatible" plugs I put in the bike on day 1 were not huge fans of 2-stroke oil. With the old ones in she runs like a champ!

    Also posted higher quality photos, as requested. The last three on my original post in the Garage:
    http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?showcase/1965-yamaha-yds3-cafe.83/

    The bike sounds like a thousand angry hornets when I ride it. To my highly untrained ear it sounds like its lugging, but as this is my first 2-stroke it could just be a totally normal part of the operation. Any reason to believe I should check the timing on the points before I do irreparable harm to the motor?

    As always, thanks much!
     
    • Like Like x 1
    phoxxanator, Aug 22, 2014
    #33
  14. maelstrom

    maelstrom LiteTek Staff Member Premium Member 250cc Vendor Contributing Member

    Messages:
    5,108
    Likes Received:
    3,477
    Trophy Points:
    1,148
    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2012
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    Thailand
    Home Page:
    My Bike:
    Yamaha FZR400 3TJ1, Honda MC22
    Yes, you can easily damage your engine with the timing out on a 2 stroke.
    You should use a dial gauge to set the timing as per the factory service manual.
    cheers
    Blair
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2014
    maelstrom, Aug 23, 2014
    #34
  15. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

    Messages:
    6,400
    Likes Received:
    4,788
    Trophy Points:
    1,148
    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    Tamworth, NSW
    My Bike:
    1937 Royal Enfield 250, CF Moto 250 V5, Honda's XL250, CBR250, FT500 plus a few others.
    Make sure it is not 'rattling' from detination/pre ignition. That can kill pistons quicker than you can stop the bike.
    With running the little pod filters the induction noise will be a lot louder than with the airbox, so this may be what you are hearing as 'lugging'.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    Murdo, Aug 23, 2014
    #35
  16. wout

    wout Member

    Messages:
    3
    Likes Received:
    12
    Trophy Points:
    13
    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2015
    Gender:
    Male
    Location:
    netherlands
    My Bike:
    YDS3 yamaha 1965
    i got a qeustion, i filled my gearbox today with the right amound of oil, i saw that the oil was also going to the clutch side, is that a open connection?
    i hope so
     
    wout, Oct 26, 2015
    #36
  17. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

    Messages:
    6,400
    Likes Received:
    4,788
    Trophy Points:
    1,148
    Joined:
    May 4, 2013
    Gender:
    Male
    Occupation:
    Retired
    Location:
    Tamworth, NSW
    My Bike:
    1937 Royal Enfield 250, CF Moto 250 V5, Honda's XL250, CBR250, FT500 plus a few others.
    Yes, the clutch runs in oil.
     
    Murdo, Oct 27, 2015
    #37
Page 2 of 2

Share This Page