Hey guys clutch is slipping, saw this ebc heavy duty kit online http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-CB...eavy-Duty-Clutch-Plates-Springs-/121556710273 would that be suitable? Will this be a straight forward easy job? I guess the 3 main questions are: 1. do you need any special tools 2. can you torque it without a specific torque wrench 3. if I put the bike on its side do i have to drain the oil?
Before you do that, have you adjusted the handlebar andusjor and/or the adjustor near the gear selector in case it's been wound in or out too far? On our CBR if you adjust the clutch lever too far you lose 5th and 6th gear. You can only shift up to 4th gear, lol
Couple of things before you go mad replacing things. Adjust your clutch at the engine and the lever perch When you upshift, hold the gear shifter in the "up" position until you fully release the clutch Have you recently changed the oil? My Ninja 250R had slippage with Motul 5100 (what the shop used) but no issues with the bel ray stuff I used after.
Check all external bits before opening the engine. 1 No, 2 Yes, but not recommended, 3 No, but does it need an oil change? EBC are a good brand.
I will attempt to check the simple things *nods*. The thing is the lever seems to have a very large spectrum, e.g. from fully pulled in if i release it just a little the bike hits a weak friction point - but then it doesnt FULLY close until the lever is ALL the way out. I didn't change anything as such, I just noticed last night when I had a race with the misses that the clutch was slipping all the way from 0-about 60k's from a high reved launch. SEEMS like it could just be the springs but as people always say why not just do it all while you are there.
Please don't wind me up lol. I am gonna go premium and take a look at the service manual for clutch adjustment, after that if it keeps happening I might just change the oil, filter, plates and springs all in one hit to be sure. It was a one off occurrence so far but I cant be having that happen frequently.
..... and that you shouldnt rev to 20,000 rpm then dump the clutch while drag racing on the street on a 20+yr old bike.
ha ha, GI is on the money, you should have 1-2mm of play in your lever at the perch, ie it should have a small amount of movement before it starts pulling the cable.
The clutch springs (if that's what creates tension) are so weak its hard to tell the difference between free play and engaging it?
With one hand pull the cable at the lever as though you are to pull it away from the lever. Then with the other hand check the free play. It will rock back and forward and not be affected by the springs etc. I usually set my clutch levers with 3mm of freeplay like @kiffsta said but just thought I would check the manual out of curiousity.
Yeah there seems to be a good amount of play on the clutch it just seems like dodgy springs honestly (could be wrong) anyway so because I am a crazy I ended up purchasing the following. Once received I will probably add some pics of the install in the project section along with the rear sets. -Uniflow airfilter -RHS engine gasket -Torque wrench -EBC heavy duty clutch plates and springs My main fear is grinding a 23mm socket to fit the castle nut to access the plates. If I have to buy a dremel tool to make one I will.
That seems like a good little project and definitely not crazy. You do not need to remove the clutch centre, do you?
From what I have seen clutch center can stay in but the pressure plate is locked on with a castle nut.
I did find this http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?cPath=71_25&products_id=936 but does anyone know if the nsr150 clutch is the same as the mc22???
