your thoughts on fastners/bolts to hold on disc rotor

i would use originals if in good condition and if not go to bolt shop and buy high tensile ones. do not use stainless as it can be brittle and snap unexpectedly. stainless is as hard as high tensile [roughly] but is more prone to break and should not be used on suspension or brakes. use loctite or similar and torque to specifications using an opposite pattern of tightenning up. after all tight check tension again and repeat after first ride.any bolt holes that are loose  have them heli coiled. should do another 20 years. check your pads as some will wear the bejesus out of the disc.

 

new pads are a must or will chew up your disk... the old bolts should come out easily once the locktite seal is broken, I have a hex T bar and I use a shifter to give some leverage and once the seal breaks, they come out easily.
Where are you getting your disk from ?  The last disk I bought for an cross cam from metal gear, it was great quality
http://metalgear.com.au/

 

Hey ozbiker

Here's another thought, take your wheel down to your local mechanic and he will remove for you with a pneumatic wrench. This way existing bolts can be re used. Nothing more to add as I concure with what other members have advised you already. Good luck with it mate.

 

i cannot stress pad quality as crap pads will chew up any disc rotor. if your old rotor is not chewed up or down to minimum your local brake machinist should be able to machine but check cost against a new one.

 

forgot to add.... loctite will release with an air impact tool  OR heat. would not recommend heat on the alloy though. another handy way to help release is a wack on the bolt head with a hammer. the shock will ease the threads.a cheap loctite is superglue.

 

Stand corrected, a rattle gun is what I meant. The set from bunnings is what we have and it works a treat.
Your final comments are on the money, do it right as those brakes are absolutely vital to your survival.
Recently did fit new pads to the gsf400, tokico brakes on the front have a steel pin for support of pads. These pins were rusted and stuck to top of the pads. Removed them and cleaned them up with the wire wheel, a touch of grease to allow free movement of pads when brakes are applied. The old pads showed nominal wear but totally uneven as a result of being stuck to pin.
Brakes are performing brilliantly since then, very pleased.
                                                              Phil

 

I have a set of the hex sockets and they are very usefull and makes torquing up the bolts on reassembly easy.

A rattle gun is one of the best tools you can have as even well rusted bolts will give in with enough rattling. I have 2 in the shed a cheepy for every day use and a good one for those hard to loosen bolts. I also have a cordless one for work and it gets me out of trouble often. Actually I needed it today to get a fan blade off a motor with a stripped hub so there was no way to stop it turning when the bolt was removed.
The other way of loosening bolts are soaking them in wd40 ect. heating them freezing them A good whack with the hammer and a impact driver.

What ever you use make sure the socket hex or driver bit is the right size or you will cause yourself a lot of grief.

 

Your Across would be worth a lot more than that if you sold it privately.