Hey guys, so I got to spend some time today on the bike new battery went in and straight away found melted 30A fuse in starter relay replaced all good, now got dash lights when turn key no crank though, kick stand is up as it’s on paddock stand, switch block to run, clutch in, press button no crank! I have 12.9v across battery, 12.9 at one side of relay, plug terminal in with new fuse and I have have power at the white (constant) turn key on and I have power at all three wires 12.9+ (yes including the black yellow) ground as per the wire schematics) I printed and binded the whole supplement “massive help” and Thankyou so proded around behind key switch block, power at white, turn key power at all except 2, assume ground wires went back and proved the back of the terminal on the relay just to check and my bolts are up to about 15 wtf removed signal wire from starter and tapped it on positive of battery and starter turns over and sounds strong! through my test light across all fuses in the junction box and they all seem fine so my knowledge is very basic, but somewhere between new battery and starter there is an issue! My next available time I will check continuity at the switch block up on a handlebar (that’s if it’s even an option, don’t know much about these just yet) whilst I’ll do terminal cleaning and scour pad the earth strap etc just to help! open to any advice , to recap 30a fuse was melted when I first got the bike if that helps
Assuming that you do not have a cylinder full of fuel causing a hydraulic lock, run a jumper to the starter motor. If that works then go back to the solenoid. If it is getting the signal from the starter button then solenoid is your problem and if not it is your starter switch and so on.
I hard wired the starter straight to battery and the engine turned over fine so I don’t think it’s hydrauliced I’ll just throw a solienoud at it and see what happens
Yeh I'd be looking at starter solenoid. Sometimes a sharp tap with the handle of a screw driver will get it going.
So I got the bike to turn over! There was no continuity at the side stand switch, so I bridged the wire, pulled all terminals apart and cleaned contacts everywhere, checked continuity every where else and all seemed fine! And yay it cranked away! Pretty stoked to have got some noise out of this thing! But it doesn’t sound very good when turning over, I’d suggest little to no comp! Which is ok, was just happy to hear it turn over! so Comp gauges and check is next, and go from there
You can get a compression Tester like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cylinde...687399?hash=item3fce561427:g:bVQAAOSwnQ5eqdDT But I prefer to use a Leak-down tester which will give you a much better read on where the issues are. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Leak-Do...121913?hash=item1ea6c7a9f9:g:tH0AAOSwDABeRfA5
So ordered a comp tester and awaiting for it to arrive, done a few things today pulled all brakes off and found them in a terrible state, plan to rebuild them so link to kits etc would be appreciated! cooling hoses are stuffed, understand Litetek are working on a set but in the interim does C model fit the A? pulled plugs and they don’t seem to bad except for corrosion around one?? Smell very varnishy though. learning more each day and really enjoying tinkering with it, pics are attached if anyone notes anything I’m missing up to this point that needs attention, I’m sure the list is long and extensive bike was green at some point
And they look like 30 year old brake hoses too. Time for some shiney braided ones (they help brake feel too).
Yeah this bike does seem to have been neglected or untouched for quite some time I noticed the spark leads to have two short ngk and two long mizuni or something like that printed on them is it normal to have cylinders 1 and 4 to have a shorter plug and 2 and 3 to be longer
The NGK arnt right ... the other looks more like it but have a look at my post here .... https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/spark-plug-caps-zxr250.9140/#post-131103
So got around to pulling the carbs off my bike this afternoon after @kriffsta helped me learn some things on my spare set.....which turned out to be for a C and had a few bits missing I’m at the point where I wish to comp test my engine as it doesn’t sound strong cranking, but I couldn’t wait and decided to pull the carbs on the bike the varnish was terrible, and everything was gunk, but pulled the jets and got 128/128/128/125 so will be getting some new ones as if I’m gonna pay for one I just beat get them all... moreover when I pulled the plugs the other day I noticed cyl 1 plug was corroded and after the carbs cane off I couldn’t help but peak in there ..... One would imagine this is not ideal to see when looking at your valves as opposed to the others
Haven’t looked down it test as run out of light in my shed that doesn’t have power but I will tomorrow and secretly hoping that maybe it’s just been left outside or something as I bought it without a tank but I feel that there is a lot of hope going on