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Help FZR 250 2KR Carb rebuild

Discussion in 'Yamaha 250cc In-Line 4's' started by Slugger, Jun 21, 2016.

  1. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Hi all,
    My first post here, and it's asking for help on rebuilding a set of carbs, off a 1HX 2kr FZR250.

    Short history:- Bought the bike about 5 years ago, not running. The intention was to slowly repair/refurbish and get it going. I am not a mechanic, have never worked on bikes, but i have done a lot of home mechanical repairs on cars, and have some mechanical knowledge. So, i now have some time, and decided to start the process. The carbs first. :headbang:

    Ordered a set of seal kits from Litetek, and started to pull them apart. After much trouble getting screws off the float chamber caps (previous owner cammed them out - probably used phillips screwdrivers), i was confronted with a heap of gunk, and green stuff stuck to the Jet holders. Looks like this:
    upload_2016-6-21_23-13-31.jpeg upload_2016-6-21_23-27-35.jpeg

    I have emailed Blair from Litetek and he has helped, but i thought it would be better to ask for help here, rather than bother him constantly. And, i thought it might be fun for you guys while you laugh at the state of the carbs, and my frustrations. I'm sure many of you have been through this, and would be good to laugh at my expense:D

    So, i have two questions for now:
    1)I know i can take off the brass holders for the main and pilot jets, but what is the third brass pipe next to them? Can i take it off, and how? There is nowhere to unscrew or unbold it, but it needs to be cleaned. It.s just a cylindrical pipe, with a hole in the middle.

    2) What do you guys recommend i use to clean/soak all the parts that i will eventually pull out? Because they are Alloy and Brass, i'm not sure what would be safe, without eating into the metal.

    Anyway, long first post, but if anybody can help, it would be appreciated. And i would bet i will need a heap more advice as i go through this rebuild. I'll try to keep you updated (with pictures and my frustrations) so you can add humour to your days.

    Cheers.
     
  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    Yamaha Carburetor Cleaner Dip is very good for removing stain's etc, it cost about $23 for the concentrate, when mixed it make's a few litre's
    Strip the carby's down and leave them to soak for a while
    Take lot's of pic's/note's etc on what goes where so you know how to get them back together
    Do you have an air compressor so you can blow them out when you are cleaning

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Thanks. I'll take a trip to Yamaha and see if i can get some.

    No, don't have a compressor. But i've been wanting to get one for ages. Now might be the time:thumb_ups:
     
  4. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    HI,

    So, can anyone tell me what this brass pipe does, and whether it can be removed for cleaning?

    There is a hole in the top, but i can't see what's inside it. There is nowhere for a screwdriver or spanner to go to unscrew/unbolt it. It's just a round pipe that is attached to the body.


    upload_2016-6-22_11-13-43.jpeg
     
  5. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  6. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Haha. Would you like to? I might be able to help you with getting some experience in that:D

    Anyway, yes i did liik at the schematics, and even went through the Japanese part number list i had, and couldn't find anything at all. I couldn't even find any pictures of anything that looked like mine. Others have only 2 pipies (for the jets), and they sit in a cast piece that is removable from the body. Weird.. Hopefully spomeone knows what the are and what they do..
     
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  7. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  8. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Yes, that looks similar. It's that brass pipe on the right of the main jet in that picture on the link you posted.
    It has a tiny hole in it, but i can't see where, or whether you can take it off. In picture 3, it looks hollow to me, but that might be just an illusion of the pic. The cavity on the left of the main jet is where the pilot jet sits (correct?).
    Any idea what the one on the right is?
     
  9. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    I think it might be a pickup for the choke/start circuit ?
     
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  10. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Yep, i think you might be right. I found this post on www.xjrider.com/viewtopic.php?t=5233.
    Might be helpful to others..



    [​IMG]

    #1) It's the pilot jet (actual jet removed). That brass jet has a hole the size of a pin in there, and it gets clogged easily. The best way to clean it out is using a guitar string. Make sure that idle passage in the carb is cleaned out real well, and don't get carb cleaner in your eye like 98.4% of people do.

    #2) Here's the main jet tube. Doesn't get gunked up often, but make sure all those little holes on the side are clean. Use the guitar string. In the picture, obviously the actual main jet and holder are removed. Use the guitar string on the actual jet as well. The little holes in the tube are what turn the gas into a quasi-mist, so it's more easily carried by the air.

    #3) This is the enrichment circuitry jet, also falsely known as the choke. Open the choke and do your best to get some carb cleaner through there. Well honestly, as far as I know this is where the choke gets its gas. I haven't been able to verify that yet. But you squirt carb cleaner up there and it goes to the choke...so 2 + 2...

    #4) The emulsion tube. Remove the brass bolt and washer from the top, and in a perfect world the tube should fall out towards the diaphragm. Make sure it's spotless and polished up. If it doesn't come out, you can tap it out with something that's not metal. You don't want to damage the threads on the top there (since brass is a very soft metal) or score the sides of the carb. Use something plastic to tap the tube out of there. Not metal. Plastic.

    #5) The needle valve seat. Remove the Phillips head screw from the right of it, and use some pliers to pull the brass seat out. Don't manhandle it too hard with the pliers. Like I said, brass is soft, and you don't want to squeeze it and make the round hole not so round. Then your needle valve will get stuck. On the other end of the seat once you get it out there should be a wire mesh beanie on top which pops off. Pop that thing off and make sure there is nothing clogging the hole. The little beanie is supposed to keep rust and other particles out, but more often than not old gas and other buildup will clog the hole just underneath the beanie. If the O-ring around the brass seat looks like it's disintegrating, go ahead and replace it while you have it out.


    Cheers.
     
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  11. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Time for more laughs at my expense.

    Well, i managed to get the float bowl cover screw off. All except two came off with much swearing and cursing. The previous owner must have used a Phillips screwdriver before, and they were all damaged. The two that didn't come out, i ended up drilling them out.
    So, i then proceeded to undo the diaphram cover screws. Well, not only were they damaged, but they must have used Locktite or something to them!!!. I managed to unloosen half of them, but the other 8 will not come out with a hand held JIS screwdriver. I can't even get the slightly damaged screws out using a JIS screwdriver. They started to cam out too.

    I haven't got an impact screwdriver, but that is the next step. If that doesn't work, i will need to drill them out as well.

    These Carbies are becoming an obsession. I won't let them beat me!!!!. If i have to end up spending $1000 on tools and materials, i will, but i WILL GET THEM APART AND RECO'ED!!!! :fuckyou:


    upload_2016-6-24_16-44-13.jpeg
     
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  12. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    If the screw heads aren't totally ruined, drilling a small hole in them will allow the JIS head to go deeper into the screw and, if lucky, will allow you to undo it. Ask me how I know :thumb_ups:

    Holding the JIS driver on the screw and tapping it with a mallet also helps to loosen them up, along with a bit of inox or penetrating oil.
     
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  13. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Ok, i'll bite. How do you know?
     
  14. Linkin

    Linkin The Mechanic Premium Member Contributing Member Dirty Wheel Club

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    Give you one guess.
     
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  15. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    The other way is to cut a slot into the head to take a flathead screwdriver

    Screwhead.jpg ozito.jpg
     
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  16. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Yep, i can try that, and there are scews that have had this done that i got out. And, yes, i can drill a small hole like you suggested. But, if i'm going to go to all the trouble of cutting or drilling, i might as well just drill out the screw head. I won't be re-using the screws. I will put them back using Hex screws. That way, nobody will have these problems on this set of carbs again..:thumb_ups:

    Edit: Actually, i might try your suggestions, because i just realised that if i just drill the screw head, i will still need to get the rest of the scew out, and if it has had Locktite, this may be even more of a problem... Hmmm...
     
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    Last edited: Jun 24, 2016
  17. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Try heating with a hot air gun to soften the locktite.
     
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  18. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    You can buy plier's for removing screw's with stripped head's
    Another way to get stripped headed screw's out is to centrepunch in between the slot's, and try tapping the head around anticlockwise to loosen it with a hammer and punch

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Slugger

    Slugger Active Member

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    Those pliers look good. My only concern is that the screw heads are shallow, and are curved with a taper towards the top, so getting good purchase on the side of the screw head might be difficult.

    Anyhow, i might look to buy a set, and as i said, i might end up spending heaps on equipment and stuff, all for a $150 set of carbs...:headbang::mad:
     
  20. Murdo

    Murdo The Good Doctor Staff Member Contributing Member Ride and Events Crew

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    Be careful if hitting the screw heads that you don't break a piece of the carb off.
     
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