The Cherry Fizzer

Ok, so I almost never used high beam. Tonight I did for the first time in a long time. And my gauges go dim when I go to high beam. Light back up to normal on low. REAL dark when holding down "Pass". Im sure it never did this previously.

Can any other owners (Esp of fizzers) tell me if this is normal (I dont think so) or am I now past the entrance of some deep-seated electrical problem that is starting to rear its head, and the non functioning indicators were simply the start of it?

I have noticed that the headlight wire at its connector is getting very hot.

I also ran the test light over the bike to see if I could narrow down something with the indicators on Sat morning, I even tested the relay. Power going to it. Positive glows, negative only when the indicator is off (not blinking) but sometimes when you turn the indicator switch off, the light just as it turns on, blinks as if you had just turned it off mid blink as you do sometimes. (No corresponding part blink from the indicator during this)

The relay was also getting very hot. I must note that this is the relay that is off my old 2kr, and was change in a few months ago when I thought the original relay blew. Maybe it didnt and this has been around for awhile.

Any ideas fellas, and where to start looking?

 

My zxr does the dim dash light thing and it's a lot worse when the battery is abit low, how is your battery?

 

lights going dim when you change to high beam is a good sign that your regulator rectifier/charging system is't working properly or your battery is getting tired

Check all of the connections thoroughly and see what the charging voltage is with the bike both at idle and then higher up the rev range

I've been through it - for me it was the regulator/rectifier though I checked everything in the process to be certain

headlight wire getting hot also indicates a short somewhere that isn't carrying enough current to blow fuses or melt wires, but it's close

peace out

 

The battery was bought at Easter. It should be good, but I will check it anyway.

The other thing is when you are on throttle, (when the indicators are working) the indicators go fast. Off throttle slow.

May need to check the reg on the stator.

 

check and resit all your earths 1st.

 

Well that is my port of call straight up. Problem is, I have NO idea where the earthing locations are. I may need to delve into the manual Grey has on his Google drive and research if it has a wiring diagram.

 

Thanks grey.

Pretty sure it's a local earth or I would have problems through the whole bike such as tail and headlights.

But I'll trace that earth and see where it leads to.

 

Ok, so last night on the way home, I noticed that after a while on high beam the cluster lights would get lower.

And Just up from home, I switched them on and left them for about 30-45 seconds, at which point, the cluster as well as indicator, and headlights started to dim. Back to low beam, all good. Although I did notice that the highbeam light was still dimly lit.

So I went out earlier today bought a battery strap, and 2 orings to stop the leaking coolant issue. Then dropped down to jaycar and bought a $40 easy to use multimeter (a tool long overdue in my toolbox) and set about testing the battery.

Battery was sitting at 12.5v started bike, and it was sitting at 13.8 with low beam on, 14 with highbeam, and 12.5 with lights off. Errrrrm.

Then my blinkers started working again. The lights on, they went off, then cam back on again, wiggled the bike, they stayed on. But still blinking at different speeds. Wiggle the bike, turned off, then on after another wiggle.

Went to the front of the bike where the wires disappear under the cluster, wiggle them. Off. Then only the left rear worked on the left, right all good. Checked connection for front left, made sure they were connected, front came on. Now they haven't turned off.

Surely that one earth couldnt be causing all the problems? And whats with the drainage with the highbeams on??

 

there is going to be more than one earth. trace all wires to the frame, and the engine. remove them and get some sand paper and clean up the earth contact on both the wire the frame and the bolt/screw. clean your battery terminals and check all connections are are tight.

get contact cleaner and remove all electrical plugs on the harness and give them a squirt and a clean and make sure they are all back together tight.

check all contact and connections else where and repeat.

let me know if that makes a difference.

 

On cbr all lights and indicators have same earth

 

Moo, your a legend. That's what i needed. A plan of attack. I wasn't sure where to start. Or what to do.

So now I know where to go. While I have the tank off I'll change out the o-ring for the leak problem and put in the fuel line to run the pump at the same time.

 

I hope this works out for you. electrics are always a pain in the arse, so always start with earths

 

Well, as I said in the "what have you done to your bike today" thread. I decided to get a start on finding the electrical problem.

Last night, I was going over a couple of bumps and my indicator came on (I must not have turned it off) justa quick flash, but it shows that there is a power/earth problem. My lights started to go dim just up from home, then blanked out momentarily then everything came back on, turned off highbeam, indicator flashed. Which got me thinking that the indicator/high beam issue may be related. If not the problem to each other.

So I attacked the bike and started pulling all the connections apart, pulling the loom off the bike so that way I could trace the loom and wires easily. I also decided to switch out the temp sender from my bike and put in the one from the 2kr. Put it all together and then switched on the ignition. Temp guage needle lifted with power, dropped when off.... Success

I then started on the loom with my test light. Testing the lines to and from the Indicator switch block. I started writing down what connections were what, and out of the 8 I can only account for certain 5. One (brown/white) has dim power running to it (though 11.97v via the meter). Brown and Dark Green are unaccounted. I then had a good look over the rest of the loom and found:

A number of wires spliced and diced.


This light blue wire that runs up to the cluster with no power at any time:


And an earth patched in for the headlights in the connecting loom from the main to the headlights:



Someone has patched in a wire from the stator to the reg that goes to the battery:



It looks to me that there is not enough power (or none) getting to the indicator switch, rather than the switch itself.

It has me wondering if I should give up, and buy another loom?? Problem is 3Ln1 and 3LN3 are different connections. And who knows the difference between 3LN3/5/7.

Hmmmmmmm. What to do from here......

 

But I did find something useful on the old FZR.com site. Wiring Diagram. Now time to learn exactly how to read one.....

http://fzr250.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=3713

 

And just cause I am a gluten for Punishment:



Thanks @Mclaren

 

Well I finished changing the loom from the new bike into cherry.

Connected all wires up after a good dose of contact cleaner in all connections, bike and loom. Connected my switch block. No indicators. Quickly pulled the one off the new bike saw that it was full of gunk. Tried it twice. Nothing third time, disco.

However I need to repeat those results tomorrow to say, yes that was the problem. Which is a bloody pain cause I coated that switch block in contact cleaner. The one off the new bike is full of crap! An looks really bad compared to mine. May need to see if I can switch internals.

The only thing left to do for a full
Loom test is to put the proper plug from the old bikes projector (single) to my double headed projector and see if there is no problem.

Then it's coolant orings to replace, snavel itty bitty parts to complete my bike & put it back together.

Then I will place my old loom in Maccas old bike, and well, phase two of my plan begins....

 

nice work buddy! is phase two rebuild the engine and have a track fizzer?

 

If it requires a rebuild, no. But if it will crank and fire, yes.

It would depend very much on the cost of a rebuild. Or replacement engine.

Here's hoping....