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Help ZXR250c - Where are the various adjustments on the carbs?

Discussion in 'Kawasaki 250cc In-line 4's' started by DamnitLaverty, Aug 26, 2016.

  1. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    Ok so ive pulled apart the whole carb set now...all the O-rings on the plastic tee pieces are shot...anyone know exactly what orings i need to get and where to get from in perth ?...cheers

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  2. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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  3. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    Awesome...thanks for that...dont mind buying elsewhere as long as i can get them...cheers

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  4. DamnitLaverty

    DamnitLaverty Doing things the hard way since '78!

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    Oh man- so 1: thank y'all for being so awesome and sharing so much info... and 2- why couldn't the previous owner have been a member here?!

    The jets were installed 122/122/125/125, the idle screws were all between 4 and 5 turns- this is all shenanigans!

    I'm really glad you guys are here, and willing to teach a noob.
     
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  5. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    I found after completely disassembling my carbs to shells...that the o rings for the mixture screws were also completely shagged...i actually had to drop a starter tap into the hole to hook the o rings out...also found the slides on the choke needles (barrells) were also very worn....seems the only parts worth keeping were the vaccum rubbers and slides...everytjing else was pretty well f*@ed....oh well... something to do i guess.

    Manged to get the snapped of bolt out too.

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  6. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    Well a bit of elbow grease...some soda blast and some more elbow grease...damn these things are a sod to clean....just waiting for my last pair of rebuild kits to arrive...got the litetek seals as well...this bloody thing better run when i get it back together or there will be a bucket of bolts up for sale ;-)

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  7. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    Ok...all done....lets hopes this bloody worked...anyone in WA after a cheap ZXR ...could be one coming up ;-)

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  8. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    Ok...so carbs are in the bike...i setup my mechanical adjustment with verniers before putting on the bike...so i know when i adjust idle screw all butterflies are within .02mm of each other...bowls are full...i have carb sync hoses and guages on...theres definately fuel going in and i can smell lots of fuel...it fires randomnly and tries to start but i get a massive back fire.. so its obviously too rich..my mixture jets are all exactly 2.5 turns out....do i need the air box on for these carbs to work properly at idle or can i do it with them open

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  9. my67xr

    my67xr Bike Enthusiast Staff Member Premium Member Contributing Member

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    With no airbox on they'll run quite lean
    Did you check all the float level's are right ?
    And did you sync all the carb's after assembling them ?
     
  10. Adam Giles

    Adam Giles Well-Known Member

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    Silly question, but have you checked ht lead order?

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  11. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    I mechanically synched them eith vernier calipers...when u actuate its perfectlu aligned...as for symching the carbs with the bike running...thats the bit i havent acheived yet ;-).....ive got the plugs out..theres spark on all foure cylinders but its weak...and the pluges are pretty black..got them soaking in acetine now..lots of carbon so the soark was tracking all round the edge of the plug...will clean up and set the gap properly..theyre all slightly different.....will so how it goes....ill get a can of ether and at least see if it fires on all four cylinders....it actually ran before i stripped it down..but it used to conk out agter 400m and i couldnt restart it...all the leads look shite fro Oxidation when i unscrewed the plug caps....guess its just a matter of elimination now.

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  12. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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  13. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    Ok...so i already did the refit on the leads ;-) thanks for that..i presumed it would have needed doing...the spark on each lead is now a bright yellow healthy looking spark...i put the plugs in turned it over and it fired right up...idled perfectly after about 5 seconds....throttle response is crisp...if anything it is a little rich by the wee puffs of brownish smoke...now i can balance the carbs properly ..sadly i cant ride it as im still awaiting the brake seals to arrive....thanks for the tips anyway......looks like my bench top settings with the verniers are on the money anyway ...cheers...

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  14. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    Oh and yes...i checked the float levels correctly as per the spec...im very fussy about getting things exacto....when the horrible rattle on the right side of engine is gone...i think it was the fact that the right cylinder was not firing all the time...cheers for your input guys...sorry to the OP for hijacking...but i thought my experience might help others too...cheers

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  15. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    Ok i am back to square one...bike ran flawlessly for about 5 mins...idles perfect then just lost revs and cut out...after several mins of stuffing round i discovered only 3 of the four exhausts were hot...cylinser one was cold as it turns out its doing what it did before i pulled the carbs down...just dies .cant restart it then after an hour or so itk run up again...pulled the plug and no spark on #1 ...other 3 fire but wont run the engine....can someone please drop me a link to known electrical issues...im presuming either the cdi...the coil or a sensor on the ctank somewhere ?....thanks in advance...

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  16. kiffsta

    kiffsta Senior Member

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    I'd suggest buying 4 new plugs , trying to clean up gunked ones is always going to be hit and miss
     
  17. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    Old plugs were ully cleaned in acetone and gap reset...burnt off all the carbon etc...but yeh ill buy new ones...still think theres an electrical issue as thisnis what it was doing before the carb brebuild...

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  18. GreyImport

    GreyImport Administrator Staff Member The Chief Contributing Member

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    Test your coils



    Multimeter Coil Test – Twin lead coils



    Primary : multimeter on 200m (ohm side)

    probes on + and - terminals of coil

    primary should read around 2.8 ohms


    Secondary : multimeter on 20K (ohm side)

    The secondary windings are isolated from the primaries. These are double-ended coils, so measure the resistance through both spark wires (without the caps).

    secondary should be around 15K ohms
     
  19. Mad_Ryan

    Mad_Ryan Active Member

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    Thanks...im a sparky ......been many years since i got on the tools but still got my meters...will check there...they worked fine this arvo..im guessing that heat is a factor i have the full electical diagram and a factory service manual...mrs reads japanese so im good to go along with the english versio as well...just getting tired of finding problem after problem ;-)....ill go the wreckers tomorrow and buy coils cdi just in case...cant be arced trouble shooting too long ...tha ks for the info ill have a look tonight

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