Hey Fox Recently I spoke to my mechanic Jason about Threebond and he suggested that warm engine up, with piston on tdc spray some in and allow a few minutes to start working. Power valves was similar process, quick spray and allow time to work. Then it's time to start engine up and prepare for smoke screen out the exhaust. According to him it is not advisable to stand behind exhaust as a carbon storm occurs. Really keen to see how well it works. I've seen it used on Subaru boxer engine with fabulous results, can't see why it wouldn't do same on 2 smokers.
According to the previous owner its had a top end rebuild recently so I don't know for sure, I was just checking the rc valve. In the service manual it says the pulley mark and H mark should line up when the engines idling, mines way off. So do i adjust the marks to align with the bike not running
I don't know the method with the 150 mate. With the 250 it's a procedure that involves cycling the ignition and unplugging the throttle position sensor, then cycling the ignition again without the engine running. If you have the correct service manual it should explain exactly what you need to do. I would follow what it says. If in any doubt I imagine there would be forums dedicated to the 150 on the net. You may find some information on NSR World forum as well. I know they started a tuning section for the 150 but the links don't work. If all else fails, I would recommenced contacting Matt at Tyga Performance who has forgotten more than most people know about NSRs. Keep in mind that this thing is a 150. It's never going to be a rocket ship.
Sorry I haven't got back yet, can't get near it till Sunday. I think also the H & L marks are opposite to how the book reads It's all confusing & possibly wrong, we never got to the bottom of it & just set it by eye like I described earlier. After a rev on the throttle the valve will hang open a bit then as the revs drop slowly around 2 or 3k the servo will close the valve completely & the revs will drop to idle, I thought it was a fault but it is normal, we swapped black box's & servo motors & checked & checked the settings over & over but never changed I'll film it & post the recording if I get out of bed Sunday. How does she run ? Are you chasing a problem? As far as a top end re build, she should be ok as the bores don't suffer too much as they are nikasil plated, very hard, & only a ring and/or piston need replacing, depends on many things like air filter & oil used but if looked after should be ok. Compression is the all important thing.
It'd make sense that the L and H marks are opposite in the manual cause on idle the pulley faces L and wen you rev it opens up and the pulley faces H. But according to the book it should face H on idle that's what confused me. I thought she ran well when I got it but after doing some work its noticeably better, i adjusted the autolube which was to high so it smoked a bit during warmup and wouldve needed more frequent top ups, it had no airfilter and an old spark plug and loose end cap as well and I replaced all of them and its much more smoother and responsive I just need to clean and adjust the rc valve still
welcome aboard mate, if you don't mind me asking what did you part with for your nsr150? just curious about what 4 wheel vehicle equated to your 2 wheel one
I spent so little money for that car theres no loss, only minor regret is doing it in the cold wet season haha
Definetly true but on the other hand 2 regos, 2 services periodically plus fuel for both wouldn't be practical/economical for 1 guy on his own