mate just be sure to check all your harness plugs too.. i almost pulled down my whole wiring harness.. but a mistake in knocking the plug from the harness to the coils fixed my problem.. it was one of the plug prongs had come loose.. so you twist the plug or move it ever so slightly and it lost the connection.. had one there and another loose plug from the pulse generator to the harness.. cheers tim Note: I havent read this thread from the start so you may have already checked them.. in which case ignore this post... hahah
You need a day off work and a packed lunch to read this thread from scratch I started pulling all my harness connectors and checking and cleaning them but as yet have not completed the task .... I did do alot of repairs and re taping etc when rebuilding
Hey Grey can we compile a list of what we've both done wiring wise, I got stuck in cleaning connections today and wonderfully mines become worse - difficult starting and the chugging is sounding like only running on two cylinders quite regularly even when it will rev. Now I am actually happier as morbid as that may sound because it's becoming permanent I've already opened the TCI and have it with me to test the individual components - compared to some stuff I've repaired it's a a breeze - there's two transistors and maybe two dozen other components. I'm going to put the oscillosope on the ignition system tomorrow if I can get it running long enough
I concur! That is good news. Glenn I need some help with something electrical. Maybe you can give me some advice.
Ok, it is about fitting the R6 dash to my 400, part of the great unwashed R4 project. I sent you a conversation. cheers Blair
Looks like it's time to go through with a multi mete/ volt meter and test it all. I would start from the coils. After I learnt what I was doing with the multi meter and the accident of finding the fault I could trouble shoot it in an Instant.
Grey, yes I am running a genuine pump & a new oem filter. Had a thought during a mind numbing trip to Sydney yesterday, drill an overflow hole in the carb if it can be set in a level below the inlet & above the float full level, screw in a socket & pipe it to a catch tank? Interesting reading about Rukusmans new needle & seats changing the fuel bowl levels, is it because the new ones are shutting off better with less pressure forced on from the floats ? By the way, I've got a spare wiring harness & a black box that I swapped that didn't make any difference so they are in working condition,
Do u have the part# for the filter and what size are the inlet/outlet pipes on it ? If u look here u will see why I ask .... http://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-fuel-system.1804/ Sounds feasible ... Im going to at least replace the needles. What Ive done electrically : Replaced the Tachometer Swapped out the TCI box Swapped out the main relay unit .... spare was junk and killed off everything. Tested the primary and secondary resistance on the coils. Tested spark on all 4 Checked and sprayed contact cleaner on the major connections in the harness (relay, black box, fuel pump , coils ,VR ) Battery test at off , crank over and charging RPMs About to install new plugs.
Yes I have all the parts & rubber mounts & hoses & everything. The bike was pretty complete underneath, someone loved her in a previous life. Not sure what size the filter is though, shouldn't matter, 1.8mm diff in 8??. When you have the plugs out, turn her over a few times to clear out any fuel in case she's got some held up behind the valves. I say that to make sure you get a sterile reading when you start her with the new plugs, If she runs sweet & revs you'll know it's plugs/carbies not electrical. I wouldn't turn the fuel tap on until she starts & even dries out the bowls then see if she fouls after the tap comes on.
Same old crap ...... Ran alot nicer at speed but still died in the arse at low revs. When the old plugs came out they were like that had been marinated in BP91
Mr Grey you have to check those valve clearances. It will run like a pig at low rpm if you have riding inlet valves.
Ill be riding it there tomorrow so we can all stand around and laugh at it together At least my bikes are useful for looking at while drinking beer .............
Guys my day went really well - the bike was running like a piece of crap, so bad I didn't even bother trying to actually ride - it's more like one of those shopping centre rides for small kids... Anyway, it would rev, sounded lousy, various misfires, off sounding exhaust note, it would chug, not idle, then rev ok - bla bla bla I put the meter on the battery to check the charging voltage - 12.8 volts - spec is 14.3 - 15.3 Running it for several minutes it got as high as 13.1 volts for a fraction of a second. Well it's the regulator/rectifier. I've pulled the regulator/rectifier, and started the dissection, not really hopeful of repairing it...so I'm off searching for one shortly Anyway, a good way to diagnose this issue if it's intermittent would be to put a small volt meter connected directly to the battery and place it in the dash - next time you get any silliness, you just need to look at that meter to know if it's the charging system. I'm not saying this is the only issue my fizzer has...but it's one of them My bike runs like crap and I'm happy, OOH my am I really that damaged or am I truly broken... peace out
nothing better, it's malfunctioning, then it's not, then it is again and we go round the mulberry bush, the mulberry bush, the mulberry bush and we go round the mulberry bush, early in the morning...
Good info on upgrades - interesting info on the symptoms http://fzronline.com/wiki/doku.php?id=r6_voltage_regulator_conversion Unfortunately I'd already ordered one - the less desirable type, trying to sort out that mistake now
Very interesting article, a lot of useful information and it would appear a giant step forward. From reading this article, heat is the enemy. The upgrade to a newer VR seems to be the way to go.
