i see , this is the plastic piece that holds the float and attaches to the carb with a circle seel correct , myn sat in loose but after the bowl goes on a little tab presses the seat into the seel , i havnt checked my floats but still have flooding issue but now the excess fuel is gone much quicker
Ok here is the url for a video that I made of the fit of a standard o-ring in an FZR400 carb. Same part as yours. It also shows me fitting a slightly larger o-ring. It is a 50mb file so you are going to have to wait a while for it to download. This should make it clear what an acceptable fit is. http://litetek.co/video/FloatSeat_O-Ring.mov We decided that the 7.5mm I.D. x 2.0mm o-rings that ruckus just mentioned are the best size for carbs that have this problem. I very much doubt that I could fit that size o-ring into my carbs. It is just too thick. When I have these new "optional" sizes in stock I will make a new movie showing the difference between the two. cheers Blair
Thanx Mr Green for summarising where we are at presently ! The other thing Ill be doing is installing new float needles to cover that possibility of them being the cause of flooding I also will toss on the latest set of carbs I bought without doing anything to them, just for comparison. No sign of the camel train as yet
Mr Grey, In the interests of scientific research as conducted by the 4 musketeers please just fit the large o-rings without fitting the new float valves, first.
Yea I was thinking that last night .....to just change 1 thing at a time. So will do .... o rings first
well the solution may be simple http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151159388602?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 The description is interesting... Mines running well, still not charging though, I can get ~60Kms on a fully charged battery running total loss with the headlights switched off I'm having to adjust the fuel tap depending on the traffic conditions and an unanticipated stop where I still have the tap on full and fail to keep the revs above ~3K leaves me chugging for 60 seconds till it comes clean. A quicker fix is, fuel tap off - hold the throttle, get off and shove the thing Daytona start style, jump on and go to second. It clears it's throat pretty quickly. OH and for the record any advice elsewhere about running a 3ln without a fuel pump without problems is complete nonsense, because I think the pump does dual duty, both as a pump and a pressure regulator. Fuel sloshing in the tank causes surges in fuel pressure which overcome the needle/seat & floats. I can repeat the test over and over again, leave the tap on and come to a stop I get flooding. Turning the tap off 100 metres or more before stopping it'll idle fine. Other option is to revs it continuously at lights keeping it above 3K - damn fine way to attract too much attention though...
well I've just done a test run with four fuel level tubes monitored by a gopro - ~20 minute ride it misbehaved a little however just having watched the video - the fuel level didn't go high even though it behaved as if flooding several times. I need to put something in place so that I can open the float bowl drain screws further without too much fuel dripping, then i'll rerun the test tomorrow. plot thickens...
Explain what it did when it played up a little. Whats going on with Grey's No. 1 not lifting, Not firing, fouled a plug, plug lead or cap not contacting? Obviously not getting any vacuum to lift the diaphragm, blocked vacuum gallery or split / leaking / ill fitting diaphragm. I had a wasp mud nest in one of my tubes but I expect yours is way beyond dirty by now? It's only something simple. Sounding pretty good & when you find it it'll be beautiful.
when mine play up a little, it's either chugging when stopped at lights, which means fuel tap off for ~60 seconds and wait for it to come back to life. When I removed the flow restrictor from the fuel filter and took it for a ride, the misbehaviour is much worse, it will overwhelm the pilot circuit completely - the exhaust not changes completely in the lower rev range and it has to be kept above ~6k RPM Anyway this is all moot as fitting a fuel pump will likely change things for the better. The fuel filters for use with fuel pumps also have some flow restriction. It does however disprove the statement that the 3ln's can run without a fuel pump - which is really bad advice. I might redo the video footage today with the flow restrictor removed still to prove it once and for all.
Just a little summary on mine afer being out on it again today ..... With this other set of carbs it runs like a dream and accelerates like a scolded cat.... and I mean it flys! Ive no idea what the PO did to these carbs .... he is a bike builder/mechanic and said they were 'done' with new jets. It accelerates smoothly ,idles reasonably well and doesnt do anything like stalling or stumbling at lights or roundabouts etc It even 'sounds' so much sweeter. I think with valve clearances done it will run even better. And also need to change the sprockets back to stock as I geared it for acceleration so RPMs are a bit high for 'cruising'. I did have BP91 in the tank but half filled it with 95 today and will keep with the 95 to see how that goes. The airbox is standard with a stock filter (the 3LN3 has a hiflow type in it) Standard fuel pump with a supercheap fuel filter (next will be a stock one with the correct pipe dimensions...not like the first one from the dealer) Ill have to check the plugs this week after a bit more road time. My #1 carbys will hit the operating table soon to hopefully bring them up to scratch And yes those little tiny wasps that build a nest in hose ends are a pain in the arse!
Same plugs and leads and everything? Is the only difference the carbs? If so get that stuck slide to move freely and I think you may have a winner as it looks like she's a 3 cylinder on that first set of carbs then I would bench sync them so you have a benchmark before trying to sync them using the manometer! Probably just pointed out the obvious lol
Mr Grey As noticed by all, no.1 carb slide not working. Can you tell me if it moves freely when engine is off? The reason I ask is this, on my bandit carbs I accidently inserted the long spring and it got stuck when I put the cap back, it's easy to do but the effect is this, the slide gets stuck. Not saying this is the cause of your problem but worth a check. It appears in your video that it is stuck down as compared to the three other carbs, keep us posted.
Hey guys. I'm back! I have been racing my 3LN for three years now without the fuel pump no problem. I did however have several issues witht the carbs before finding the loose O-ring seals on the floats. This is what has made the biggest difference. I am running the standard airbox with a high flow air filter and a straight through exhaust. Here is some onbaord action from the AMCN International Island Classic @ Phillip Island https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10203147796201484 The bike ran very well all weekend with a top speed (at the speed trap before the end of the straight) of 183Klm/h. I just need another tooth or two on the rear sprocket as I was redlining before the end of the straight. Had a great time with Simon Dickson (Team Tiger) and the others from Motorcycle Sportsman. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203242247202700&set=gm.709234932430621&type=1&theater https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203333008351672&set=gm.715994258421355&type=1&theater
