Trying to help my mate out with his SR400. The ignition has died and by testing the coil, pick ups and relays they all show correct readings. This leads me to believe that the TCI box is faulty but am having trouble finding a reasonably priced replacement. Yamaha want $700 for a new one. Second hand from Japan are around $350+, so am asking the brains trust 'do you have any suggestions that won't cost more than the bike is worth'? The bike is 1992 model 3GW with a Denso 070000-2540 unit. Thanks.
I had a bit of a dig on the end where the wires come out, it looks like sikaflex type stuff all the way through. Will cut the back off tomorrow with a dremel and see what is inside. Really looking for a cheap replacement to get him back on the road.
If you cant find a replacement, Small coil rewind's in Geelong could probably repair it for you, not sure what they charge now tough. Here's a video showing how to clean up the board with Acetone, it could be the same problem as this circuit board, a lot of dry soldered joint's and some bad capacitor's
If that fails , maybe try findapart.com.au , or join the sr400 Facebook group and ask if someone has one.
Thanks for the replies. Bike was going one day and would not start the next. Been off the road a couple of months now and he is getting ichy to ride again. Have a request on findapart. Going to cut open the box today. I wonder how hard it would be to fit up something like this? For the price it may be worth a gamble as they are both single cylinders. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V...lgo_pvid=519a90c1-5a28-4ae0-9234-62323371eecb
Those AC 'Racing'cdi's can be a bit hit and miss, some were set up for use on 2 stroke bike's so had a bit too much advance built in. Some of them were cheaply made and fail out the box or failed within a month A lot of the pit bike lad's have tried them out but end up going back to a standard type cdi, they are early CRF50 /KLX110 based The first one listed below you would have within a week from Blygo, sometime's will receive them in a couple of days There is also a DC version of the Racing cdi, the wiring socket's look pretty close but they wont work with an AC Stator https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Perform...=item417d14dd07:g:T24AAOxyGwNTCBP9:rk:34:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ignitio...=item1ee94bdff8:g:S5YAAOSwxKNbh8Xz:rk:88:pf:0 Here's a wiring diagram.
See if giving a gentle heat soak on the out shell with a heat gun set to not much more than hairdryer heat makes it easier to extract the innards before Once open we can probably provide hints on the repair replacement of relevant parts - I assume you can solder
Ah yep. Thanks 67xr. Will keep that as a last resort. After soaking in Acetone all day I have managed to get about half of the rubbery stuff off. Will continue soaking overnight to hopefully get it all off in morning.
I came across mention of silicone remover when reading about roofing silicone recently - it might speed thing up, especially in the little pieces between the electronic components http://www.selleys.com.au/sealants/silicone-and-other-sealants/roof-gutter/#information MSDS - https://go.lupinsys.com/duluxgroup/...arch_api/SELLEYS_SILICONE_REMOVER-AUS_SDS.pdf From the MSDS Naptha is camping stove fuel, not sure about hydrotreated heavy - Naptha is a non polar solvent, safe for cleaning things such as archival film, won't eat plastics This looks more like the active ingredient Benzenesulfonic acid, C10-C16 alkyl derivatives You could test it on a piece of dead electronics and check it doesn't eat exposed copper traces though they should be all covered with lead solder anyway
A bit late seeing this. I did a stator and pick up coil test (resistance in circuit) and found it to be in spec. But fortunately my mechanic made me double check by testing for leak (see if it leaks to earth) and that it produces pulses. I'm probably being rude suggesting this to a man of experience like Murdo, but I'd stay out of the igniter as long as possible. I see there are a for inputs, would one or 2 be kill switch, and another be kickstand? Possibly a clutch, too? Checked those circuits, too?
Another thing to watch out for with solvent's is removing marking's off the transistor's, and capacitor's etc Main thing is to get all the soldered joint's pretty clean so you can check for cracked joint's etc, reflow anything suss and try it out
Have the board cleaned and checked all soldered joints in strong light with my glasses on and cannot see any problems. Have checked all the wires to board with meter and all good too.
For no spark I am going to recommend that you read out the chip ID's of those two large transistor sitting upright Will likely be one alpa followed by 4 numerals starting with A, B, C or D - if my guess is corect
To test it out, plug it in to the bike and make sure nothing is touching any metal, warm the soldered side of the circuit board with a heat gun, now try and start the bike and see what happen's. If it fire's and start's , i would just resolder each joint that you can see and try it out on the bike again If it work's then you can reassemble the board into the box and refit it If it doesn't start or fire then it might be worth replacing the 2x transistor's, i might have a couple spare if you can give me the part number's or post a picture. I'm guessing there's no burnt track's either ?
To end this saga, my mate got an electronics 'expert' to rebuild the box for him and it now fires up first kick.