Jaycar. You'll need to take a needle with you. Just be careful i shimmed the needles on my zx7r and while that helped the midrange it gave it a low rpm spot around 3k that floods resulting in impossible hillstarts. Especially at higher altitude. Don't look for a cheap fix, take it to a motorcycle dyno for tuning if possible. good motorcycle shops will even give you a courtesy bike.
I watched a very informative 30min video on motorcycle carbs last night. based on all the air flow mods done I just want to get it in the ball park of the correct fuel/air setting. so just gonna shim needle 1 extra washer increase main jets by 5 so 110 108 108 110 and back the pilot screws out 2 full turns instead of 1 3/4 I understand the different adjustments affect different throttle positions and I feel in theory I have a good plan. After I make those adjustments I will test the different throttle positions. But I am not reinventing the wheel here, just stealing settings and info from other sources. I wont be making any changes that I cannot revert back to stock if need be.
according to this website http://mootavic.olilolo.com/mods/tune.html This is the correct setting for the current air mods done: Derestricted Intake Tune with bolt on Can Cyl 1 and 4 116 main jets - Cyl 2 and 3 114 main jets Stock needles - 2 x .5mm washers per needle Adjustable needles - 2 x .5mm washers at clip height 5 Stock intake stack lengths Mixture screws set to 2 turns out I also like the disclaimer *These settings are all proven to work with cleaned carbs and new plugs. Probably better to run rich instead of overheat the engine (which i am starting to experience).
Woah there. Don't get ahead of yourself... First things first - Set everything in the carbs to stock standard. It was designed that way for a reason. If it's not performing right then something is wrong. Air leak, fuel leak, bad plugs, bad o-rings/gaskets... Secondly, overheating the engine is probably not the result of running lean. The temp on the gauge is usually water/coolant temp. If there's no liquid in the cooling system where the sensor is, you will be reading an air temp. You should change the coolant immediately before riding the bike again. Do it when the bike is cold. You have to let the bike cool down and the coolant system depressurize, otherwises when you undo the radiator cap you get a nasty geyser of steam and hot coolant, along with bad burns! When you change the coolant, top up the overflow bottle. Start the bike with the radiator cap off. If you get bubbles and vapour, you have a leak somewhere, or the head gasket is bad. In my case the symptoms were coolant consumption, boiling coolant in overflow bottle, bubbles from radiator cap with white vapour, and the bike engine/frame getting very hot (compared to another bike of the same model)
Yeah that thought did cross my mind, I am going to be doing a flush and fill with a 50/50 mix asap. But even still logic dictates that a bolt on can and uni filter will be running my poor baby lean. I ended up ordering 115 112 112 115 from http://www.motorcyclespareswarehous...ll-round/products/keihin-main-jet-small-round will be picking up the washers this afternoon and some tools. Ill be reporting back with my 3000hp increase later =p.
I checked out that site. The bigger radiator and cold air intake for the airbox seem like the best 2 modifications. Will have a go at those on the FZR I think.
This is true. Going back to the original question though, so jay car is an option. But sadly I can't take a needle to them, my cibby is my only form of transport and when I start a job it has to be finished in one run haha. Is there an online option? *side note* I just purchased a socket kit, Allen wrench kit, screw driver kit for more work more of the time! Very excited to get to it!
Get a set of hex sockets and JIS screwdrivers ..... Japanese bikes have JIS screws http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-too...se-industrial-standard/view-all-products.html http://www.vesseltools.com/hand-tools/black-friday-cyber-monday/700/kit-p123/flypage.tpl.html