I did a few years as a detailer not that long ago so I tend to stick to the products I would normally get from my Detailing Suppliers... VHT and similar products tend to be sold through retail stores so I haven't used it... I have used the Auto Glym products early on but then got into the higher end products.. I have seen Solution Finish used a number of times on faded plastics and it works well... so does the Black Wow.. it is just a little too wet look for my liking...
Hi Andy Would you have any more updates on the rebuild ?.I'm interested in the cleaning products that you where going to try out on the plastics etc.Iv's never heard of any of the products that yourself and sharky has mentioned.I personally use mainly the Mothers brand of products , but will have to pull my head out of the sand and keep up to date with new products on the market , well new to me that is !. Love this forum so many people offering to help with any information they have.There is also a fair few forum members in my area, that's pretty cool in itself.
I haven't done anymore since the last post... Here is a link to Solution Finish... http://solutionfinish.com If anyone is interested it can be purchased (along with other fantastic Professional Quality products) from Detail Central in Melbourne... Daniel is a great guy and really goes out of his way to assist. Hoping to pick up the frame today sometime after blasting...
Do you mean sand blasting ?.That's the way i'm going also , are you going to re-paint the frame in the O.E colour ?. If so could you share what colour the silver your going to paint it with ?.
Bead blasting... as it is kinder on the frame.. I am not going OE with any of my colours.. the frame is going to be Anthracite but I haven't chosen the actual colour yet. My frame was actually a Gold colour... not silver... maybe find a patch of good frame paint that hasn't weathered when you strip it and have a paint shop colour match it... they have scanners etc now that will duplicate most colours if they can't be identified.
Early call from my blaster so I went straight down and brought it back... Then it was a quick wipe down with thinners... blow dry and Etch Prime While I still have a little bit of welding to do I wanted to see what my colour choice was going to look like on the frame so I sprayed just a little up front... This is the same colour as the engine so I am still not sure how it will all look... I might need to do 1 coat and then trial fit the engine to see ... I am thinking of having the Rear sets anodised black... hmmm decisions decisions...
Sorry for the very late reply. The bead blasting looks a lot kinder on the metal.The only option i have in my area that i'm aware of is sand , but i'll talk to the painter and see what grit the blaster has on hand. The I.D plate that was riveted on the frame , have any issues getting that off and can you re-use the rivets again ?.I'm pretty sure my guy hasn't got a paint scanner , well iv'e never seen it. How goes the paint work Andy ?.How did the engine trial fit for the the colour match go.Did it look OK.
Your choices might be a bit limited up your way... but any grit blaster should able to bead blast... they use glass beads which are much gentler... The VIN plate came off easy... just alloy rivets so it is easy to replace when it is all painted up.. I will most likely use some silicon underneath it to keep water and grime out.. I haven't done any more painting so no engine fitting yet either but the engine colour earlier in the thread is the same colour as the frame will be... so it will all blend in with some gloss black for the engine brackets etc. I was busy yesterday welding some tabs onto the frame for the new (2nd hand) 3WP rear cowling. It bolts on at the rear but has pins that push into rubber grommets that the 51Y didn't have. I need to finish grinding back the welds so they look half decent.. even though they are not seen... and then re-position the top bolt mount for the rear sets (these are also different from 51Y to 3WP) and then... I might be ready to paint... so a few weeks yet I think.
Thanks.. It is actually a heat proof paint made by White Knight.. called Charcoal Metallic (I think) It dulls off a little when dry but some good clear coat over it and it looks pretty good.
You'd be best off to use a true 2K clear over the top to seal and protect it and to add gloss. http://www.ppcco.com.au/eastwood39b.html 2 pack is petrol resistant too Just remember once you activate the hardener you have 48 - 72 hour's to use the whole can otherwise it will start to turn to gel then harden inside the tin So have everything you want to paint or clear coat ready to go
Dropped the front forks out of the triple tree and discovered the inner tubes are bent... grrr. Problem solved though with a set of tubes available from another member for a very reasonable sum. So.. onto cleaning up the lower section of the triple tree.. lots of degreaser... then a hit with a wire brush and a wipe down with thinners before getting a number of light coats of Wheel paint.. metallic silver... looks good.. I wasn't fussed on Black. Then it was time to tidy up a little before flattening off the Primer on the tank to look for low spots... looks OK but I hit it with Spray Putty and then once it had flashed off I mist coated some charcoal grey over it as a guide coat... maybe I should but some cheap black for that ...lol and one of the underneath with colour on it...
Some chassis black is bitumin based (definatyely dont use that) and some is enamel based. Just watch out your guide coat colour isn't enamel, that's if you're using acrylic spray putty. If there's any guide coat left there once you've sanded, and you give it another coat of spray putty then it could fry up. And watch out that stuff shrink's too, so make sure it's extra dry before top coating or you'll get shrink back showing through your top coat's. Best bet is to get the repair's perfect before priming, and use 2K Hi Fill primer if you can
I am going to grab some acrylic black from Supercheap for the next guide coat but that will most likely be tomorrow afternoon / evening now... I just spent an hour with 400 wet and dry meticulously wet sanding back till there was no more visible... all the little scratches left from dry sanding... gone. One more light coat of spray putty done... (it was left for several hours earlier today out in the sun to bake) and it is looking good... No more spray cans from here on... 2K in the gun once this lot has been wet sanded back. later in the week or even next Saturday. I am still struggling with my Colour choice... the Mustang Ruby Red or my original choice, Alpha Romeo Rosso Rubino. Hmmm decisions decisions, jeez... there isn't much difference when they are looked at together... lol