I recently bought a project bike to get me back out on the road. It's a 1998 Zeal that needs some attention after being sat for a while. The bike started and ran ok, with help from a battery pack, when I looked at it and was all there. Even the factory tool kit under the rear seat. It looks to have fallen over at some stage (on both sides) but the scratches suggest it was at almost no speed or knocked over on it's stand. Jobs so far: General clean and wipe down Front brake master cylinder rebuild Front brake pads Rear brake pads Brake fluid (front & rear) Oil & Filter Next up: Fork seals Air Filter Right Air Scoop (if I can find one) Tyres Will be ready for inspection to license at that stage.
Just remembered a couple of other jobs I've done to the bike: New sight glass in front brake master cylinder reservoir Checked and cleaned cam chain tensioner. There is a minor noise/rattle that I can't quite place yet and wanted to rule out cam chain being worn. Tensioner only at half way point so chain likely to be ok. May need valve clearance adjustment
Yep , first thing's is to do is a major service , who know's when it was last done. Catch issue's before you get out of the road. Pretty sure there are lot of guy's on here with Zeal's , so they will chime in and supply more help.
The rattle is the clutch/transmission - the description is sounds like a bag of spanners - note, it isn't something which is indicative of impending mechanical failure - it's rubbers in the clutch, between the primary driven gear and the basket itself, which absorb the ignition pulses at low RPM going hard and the transmission is 'rattling' It should go away once the clutch is disengaged and the bike put into gear Here's the valve clearance check howto - note that all of the respective cam retainers go into specific positions as they are line bored in place so don't mix them up - also note that the inlet and exhaust cams are labelled We've had forum users get both a bit muddled and they are basically the only gotchas - also @kiffsta has a better sheet for recording the clearances and the respective shims posted somewhere https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-zeal-fzx250-valve-clearances-howto.1697/
Thanks Ruckusman, you describe that noise perfectly. Didn't notice it initially, I needed time to get to know the bike and all it's noises. I did a bit of of a web search and seems it is normal for this bike. Great to have you say so too. It is another slight ticking I can hear that seems to be from top end. Which may just be normal too, but ruling them out one at a time.
I ended up here with almost the precise same question - what's that noise? Is it going to go bang? Then I put 30,000kms on the bike Valve clearances are the other essential maintenance item. BTW Welcome to the forum, most helpful and friendliest bunch of people anywhere and some amazing knowledge is freely shared
https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/valve-clearance-sheet.232/ https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/fzr250-cam-chain-tensioner.3336/ https://www.motorcycletyrewarehouse.com.au/11070r-17 https://www.motorcycletyrewarehouse.com.au/14070r-17
Your Zeal looks like a great base to start from. Clearly unloved by previous owners. You will see amazing improvements as you put more time into it. Keep up the good work. Peter.
And a couple of other things sorted that I also missed earlier: Battery Spark Plugs And a pic of the rebuilt master cylinder with new sight glass. First couple of questions for the experts out there: - Did you need to replace the Camshaft Cover gasket when you checked the valve clearances? - For those that replaced their Cam Chain did you go factory or find a suitable aftermarket option? If aftermarket, which one? Cheers
There is a thread on here about trimming the spark plug cap end of the ignition wires - but that's usually only done when people are having issues with starting or misfiring - @GreyImport will no doubt post a link - he's better than an index and faster than google HAH - I just beat him, by cheating https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?threads/trim-your-spark-leads.8032/ One word of caution - if you do decide to trim the plug leads and embark upon doing it at the coil end also - the clips which hold the leads in the coil sockets are very prone to breaking as they have become brittle over time That element falls into the category of if it ain't broke don't fix it You won't find a replacement camshaft cover gasket as I believe they are NLA, BUT don't quote me - expensive http://www.firstclassmotorcycles.com.au/part/yamaha/1HX1119300#content That said a very small amount of sealant can prevent leakage if it is leaking - used very sparingly, otherwise it is reusable There are various threads on replacing the cam chain without splitting the cases - IIRC @Linkin may have done this and I do recall that @maelstrom has details on a good quality link pin peening tool for joining the two halves https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?...ange-your-cam-chain-w-o-splitting-cases.3456/ As far as needing to replace the camchain, stretch can be measured to determine the wear limit, again vague memory that @Linkin may know the actual measurement for that wear limit How many kms on the bike now? When it comes to any parts, always a good practice to check here first as so much is NLA or we've located alternative sources
Thanks Ruckusman, 84k on the clock. It is those posts on cam chain replacement that give me the confidence to get the job done. Even though the tensioner was only about half way out it seems the cam chain may need to be replaced. If I'm going to check and adjust the valves I figured I may as well do the chain too (with 84k travelled)
With that excellent write-up by Linkin - it's not a difficult task, as far as a source for the chain itself - it is listed here http://www.firstclassmotorcycles.com.au/part/yamaha/9459085112#content Their price is reasonable... But sometimes they have parts listed which are actually NLA The actual chain itself is 82RH2010 - 112 links it may be available locally search "82RH-2010-112L" it is used very extensively on a lot of bikes I've got a place close by in Brookvale called ABC bearings, you may be able to source an unjoined length from somewhere similar, they have a Silverwater store IIIRC - which means you don't have to break it in the first instance
Next question for the brains trust. I've checked the clutch cable and it is adjusted correctly. But the clutch pickup is almost at the point of the clutch lever being fully released. I read that this can be shifted by moving an adjusting nut at the clutch itself (behind the cover). I assume this may be due to wear of the clutch plates and new ones will move the pickup to an earlier point of the clutch lever release. Have I got this right?
Most bikes have a threaded section and two locknuts on the other end of the cable that you can also use to make an adjustment (lengthen or shorten the cable). There is a JIS screw that is used for clutch adjustment on the right hand side of the bike, but I never was able to get it to move. Seized. Just adjust the clutch lever so engagement feels good and ignore the free play, as long as it has some free play there it will be fine.
Project over. Sold the bike a few days ago. The plan was to get this Zeal registered and ride it until I finished my Kawasaki ZR7. That way I could take my time. The work on the Zeal actually made me decide to finish the ZR7 as quick as I can, so funds were needed. A few pics of it below (carbs are now rebuilt and back together). And, if anyone needs new clutch friction plates or a new air filter for their FZX/FZR250 I have some on the way from the USA I won't be needing now