Is this chain knackered

Hi all

I bought a ZR250 last weekend, which is my first ever bike.

The seller suggested I change the chain. I thought it looked ok (not that I have a clue what I'm doing)

I've put up some snaps of the chain and rear sprocket. Let me know if you guys reckon the chain and/or sprockets need to be changed.

Pics:

http://img.acianetmedia.com/0Jg
http://img.acianetmedia.com/0JN
http://img.acianetmedia.com/0JQ

 

take the chain off the bike and hold it sideways.the more it curves the greater the need to replace.

 

Hard to tell mate
is the chain got any adjustment left?
I tend to check by feel if it feels stiff and notchy then getting on but if feels like it has good movement it ok
But for the sake of a couple of bucks if unsure just change it mate

 

Being your first bike ever, I think it would be advisable to change both sprockets and chain and have peace of mind for a long time.

 

A little test I use: Pull the section of chain that's wrapped around the rear sprocket at the 3 o'clock position. A new chain will barely lift away from the sprocket (and thus, not expose much of the sprocket teeth). Conversely, a worn chain will expose more sprocket teeth. Seeing any more than 1/2 -3/4 of a tooth is a worn chain in my opinion.

Someone's already mentioned this one, but when you can no longer adjust it to the correct tension. That isn't necessarily when you run out of adjustment.

 

So, I've been making do with my chain but have decided it's time to replace it.

I know that I'm after a 520 chain, 14T front and 48T rear sprockets. Any tips as to the best place to pick these up online?

Also, can anyone point me to a decent (but inexpensive) chain breaker?

 

Slipstream performance in brisbane area mate, give them a ring or visit website they'll sort you out. Good price too.

In terms of your sprocket, it's worn but to me it looks ok for now. It will probably last another couple of thousand kms. Here is a picture of a shagged sprocket to compare (albeit this is a front sprocket, same principles):



To determine if you need to replace the chain, you need to test the stretch.

1. Grab a manual for your bike and know what the deflection limit is.
2. Hold a ruler vertically next to the lower section of your chain and pull down. See how much the chain deflects, it should be between the two numbers given in the manual for item (1) above.
3. Check your rear axle position. There's a slot in the swingarm that allows you to adjust the position of the rear wheel as the chain stretches (that's probably what Mclaren was referring to when he spoke about adjustment). If your axle is to the rear of the slot, your chain is probably stretched to its service limit if the deflection is within spec from point (1). Adjust as required by loosening the axle and adjusting the nuts on the bits of threaded rod sticking out the rear (you may not have this exact setup but something similar will exist).

Here's a pic of the slotted area (red arrow). Green arrow is where the adjustment rods would be.

 

torpedo7 have cheaper tools.
Savagemx.com.au do cheap chains and sprockets but mostly for dirtbikes.

 

chain breaker===third gear.

 

I've heard a rumour that Andy's Bike Bits can do some good prices . Let me know your bike year model etc. and I'll do the best price I can for you.....

 

andy is honest too.

 

Thanks for the offer Grasshopper.

It's a 1998 Kawasaki ZR250 Balius.

Also, are cheap motorcycle chain breakers ok? I used to use a cheap breaker on mountain bike chains and those chains used to snap. Not something I want happening at road speeds :s

 

Well, there are good ones and bad ones... the important thing is to have one that properly "peens" the pin so it doesn't come apart. We just used one on a cam chain - don't want that breaking! I'll message you shortly...

 

i used a THIRD GEAR one on the 750 and did an extra bit of peening and no problems.

 

I use a nail punch and a hammer. If that doesn't work and I have a new chain, a grinder works even better!