Just thought I would share my "bargain" ZXR250 rebuild. Seen it for sale on facebook for $400. Talked him down to $200 & it started from there. I always liked the ZXR750 when I was younger but were always too dear so when I seen this I thought it would be a good project to use for commute to work & a bit of fun. After reading the forums here which were really helpful I cleaned carbys, got a kit from LiteTek as all the seals were cactus & got her running just to prove that it would before I strip it down for tidy up. Also checked valve clearances as it would only run for 5-10mins & then would not restart. Found that most of the clearances were too tight so re shimmed & after about $100 worth of shims it runs reasonable but still hard to start after 1/2hr so unsure about that. Will strip engine top end & check it all out when I get a chance. Started stripping her down yesterday, cleaning & today started stripping paint off frame, wheels so here is where I'm at... Used Selleys Kwik Strip & pressure washer to strip paint & it worked really well. Got the idea off another bloke on facebook. Can't believe how easily it comes off. Just going to be a pain in the arse to clean up all the old paint when finished. Front wheel tells a story. Looks like she's been through a few paint jobs over the years. I think it a Malaysian "C" model as it has made in Malaysia all over the inside of the fairings.
Had a quick try to get bearings out yesterday. They all seized & hard up against spacer. Will give it another crack later when I have more patience. Fairing has seen better days. Sounds like a good nickname tho Greyimport. Commando... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Did u try tapping the spacer tube slightly off centre at one end? .... then u can get in from the other end with the big screwdriver to knock one out Theres also a marking in the bearing side of the sprocket carrier ... if u bed the carrier bearing past that line then when u fit the metal dowl/spacer thingy on the other side , the carrier doesnt sit flush on the wheel .... if that makes sense .... that was my assumptions at the time anyway https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?...odel-stealth-edition.1949/page-12#post-125890
Cheers I tried moving spacer to side but didnt give me much if a shoulder to hit against. I didn’t try too hard as I was more worried about stripping the paint. Will give it another crack. Thanks for the tip! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Nice project. Definitely looks like a Malaysian model. The tell tale is the speedo, it should end at 240km/h and not 180km/h. You can get new plastic hoses from the fairing to the tank from Japan, but they were about $50 each when I bought them.
If you can't push the wheel bearings out from behind and you're definitely going to replace them, then you can drive a couple of screws into them from the outside and use that to help pull them out. Don't go too far when drilling as you don't want to do any collateral damage to the wheel hub. Large wood screws are my preferred weapon of choice.
Anyone got any tips to strip 2 pack paint(i think it is). Rear wheel was factory paint & came off easily but the front wheel looks like it has been blasted & painted in 2 pack? 3 coats of stripper so far & hardly bites in. Any tips? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sandblasting is good at removing tough finishes, finding someone with a large enough tub to do it might be a problem.
Most sand blasting places wont touch 2 Pak or Powdercoat because they have to get so aggressive that it damages the underlying substrate. Maybe get yourself some better stripper... your local Automotive paint store will have better stuff than the selleys or even Diggers. If all else fails... heat gun or lots of sanding..
I take my wheels to the powdercoaters and they blast and recoat them for around $150 pair. Try a panelbeater supply shop for some real stripper.
I ‘ll see what i can get hold of up here...No auto paint shops. I did use that magic 3 Bond carby cleaner when i reco’d them. Does that remove paint? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scuff any shiny paint with some 36 grit sandpaper to make it easier for the stripper to bite into it, but try not to scuff the alloy. Give it a thick layer (2mm thick) of stripper then carefully wrap it in glad wrap so the stripper doesn't start to dry out before it's working, the fume's it hold's inside the glad wrap help it work too Should only take 20 minute's to 30 minute's to fry up Any Crash shop's around They might be able to get it in for you ? East Pilbara Smash Repairs, Newman WA Otherwise you may need to have it freighted to you from Pt Hedland ?
Cheers my67xr Had a read of TonyZXR rebuild thread last night. Gave me some inspiration. That bike is going to a whole new level. Work of art. Perservered with stripper & pressure washer today as I had a bit of time up my sleeve & nowhere to go. Laid it out all day in the sun & recoated with stripper when it looked dry. Pressure washed it & she worked. There was a section that was real stubborn on the outer rim & after I finished had a closer look & it seems that the rim has been repaired before. You can feel the uneavenness of repair job. Hope this doesn't mean I need a new rim. Will look into it more.
Thanks for the kind words, yeah it was a damn nightmare, went through so much paintstriper and brass wire brushes , comes off the smooth outer rim easy but the rough cast finish in the centre far out... really should finish that bike. Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
Painted frame & a few other bits today. It was hard to put the first coat of primer on as the frame looks so good in plain alloy but would be way too much work to keep in good nick. I am thinking of spraying a clear coat on frame to protect it. Does anyone know how to remove the riveted bolts on the steering head lock easily as I want to polish the top triple clamp without the lock in place. Any ideas?
They're Shear Bolt's, the head of the bolt sheer's off once it reaches a certain torque. A sharp centre punch and hammer does the trick pretty easily Punch a ding into the washer part then angle the centre punch so it will undo the bolt anticlockwise as you tap it May take a couple of goes in different spot's What sort of paint did you use on the frame? And did you use any etch primer on the bare alloy ?
Cheers my67xr. I will try to remove lock tomorrow. The paint I used is just a Dulux Duramax spray can paint. Metallic Silver with Dulux Etch Primer undercoat. I wasn't really sold on the colour as I think it is really bright like the old silverfrost paint but maybe if I coat with clear it may take the shine out I hope. I'll see how it goes. I wanted a darker/duller silver but not much choice up here. I am going to try to get KBS clearcoat. I've read it should protect well. See how it turns out...
See if you can get your hands on Eastwood Diamond Clear... they also do it in a satin finish http://www.ppcco.com.au/eastwood364.html You should also be able to get it on eBay.... I havent used the Satin but I have used the Gloss and it really is a good product.