Honestly, it was a bust. Just from eye balling the decay over time it would have taken more than 50 hours and even then im skeptical. This was WITH hydrogen peroxide and moderate heat. A friend came over with good tools and I ended up drilling and re-tapping a new thread. Exhaust leak is gone as new honda oem bolts have gone in, new copper gaskets and good exhaust sealant. I would not recommend the dissolve approach to anyone. A learning experience none the less, there is no shame in being wrong.
For a desperate situation where there is no access for drills and taps etc it would be a brilliant technique, but as you've experienced very very slow. It reminds me of when I used electrolysis to clean rust out of my tank, that took over a week with solution changes each day, using boiling water each time to speed the reaction. BTW using an anti seize lubricant on the replacements will help avoiding stuck studs
no shame for not succeeding,if you do not try you cannot succeed.for hi-tensile i sharpen a concrete drill to the shape of a metal drill and it works.
Blast it with inox and let it soak in as long as possible. Use a punch and a hammer afterwards with only a few light to moderate taps to try and shock the bolt loose. After that get some left handed drill bits and electric drill in "reverse" to grab the bolt and spin it out. Use the smallest bit you can get away with.
I have successfully blasted out broken drills/ezy outs with a plasma cutter. Need to be careful not to go into the alloy, but can be done.
I haven't actually had a bolt that I heaven't beat yet but this one really put its foot down. Like I actually ended up snapping an easy out/extractor in BOTH of the snapped bolts and the drill really doesn't want to play ball after that happens. I really want to know if I went to far in or if easy outs snap too easy, its almost as if they are brittle. I actually HATED drilling into my head slightly next to the bolt and drilling my flanges to fix this issue, I felt like an absolute butcher.
If you ever have problem's breaking one again and can't get a small punch in to shatter the ezyout, use a tungsten carbide burr in a dremel and grind it away slowly so you don't overheat the burr. Once the ezyout is out of the stud you can use the dremel/grinding burr to grind into the stud off centre and make the edge's of the stud near the thread/s thin, then just tap in a small punch or flat screwdriver and lever the thread away from the threaded hole. You can pick up kit's cheap on ebay The finer one's last for quite a while grinding steel. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10pc-1-8...215022?hash=item25c5328f6e:g:cwYAAOSwNRdX7cVa http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/20Pcs-3m...231926?hash=item1a219f3636:g:sN8AAOSwImRYTLVC
Easyouts will snap very easy. They are extremely hard which is why you can't drill them out... they are generally harder than the drill bit. Best way to get stud, broken bolts out is to soak them with Inox or equivalent... centre punch and then drill a hole down into it about 2/3s of the diameter and then slowly use the easy out... if it doesn't start to move.... a little heating and cooling should generally fix it...
It was probably an error on my part, I think the angle I drilled in at may have been slightly off center. I will pay more attention and time next time to the initial fixing. Actually the true mistake I made here was attempting to tighten 20 year old bolts as a dodgy short cut instead of just replacing the bolts and gaskets like I should have in the first place. The difference a well mounted exhaust makes is staggering... I am going to have to do a little demo video to show off how energetic and enthusiastic it is now, it sounds like the induction velocity has increased 20%. I actually did handful of other things but here's an after picture of probably the bikes first bath, it almost looks respectable again.
It may be ugly =p, but you can hear for your self where my man hours have gone towards, tuning wise my orange comet gives all other 4 stroke 250's depression. I recommend 1:50 or 4:50 for a quick taste.
I usually have good success with drilling a hole in the centre of the bolt and then hammering in an Allen key socket (easiest thing in multiple sizes). It works even better if you cool the socket or heat up the bolt so its a super tight fit. It's the same principle as the welding technique except no need to weld (which is handy when a) you don't have a welder or b) the skills to weld a bolt). However! I have a snapped stud a CR125 cylinder and then snapped a drill bit in the stud... so now I have to drill out the drill bit which I think I'll leave for a job for a drill press... Having difficulty finding a decent drill press for a reasonable price though. Also, it is quite amazing what a tightly fitted exhaust can do.
If you really struggle then as a last resort you can remove the part and have a bolt spark eroded out.