Do you let it idle up till it's about 1/4 temperature before you are trying to rev it? You may need to sync the carb's if the slide are all moving randomly, they should be even
ok so I let it warm up and it idles fine. then bogs when i twist the throttle and then revs when i back it off.
I cant seem to find what the mixture screws are meant to be set too. I remember it better two and a half turns out? is this correct?
Start the mixture screw's at 3 turn's out, start the bike and let it get to operating temperature then tune from there
After fitting the Keyster kit's to my 3LN3 and replacing the manifold boot's and airbox boot's i have my mixture's set to 1.75 turn's out atm It's been pretty warm over here for the last few week's and my bike felt a little sluggish, so this morning i changed the mixture screw's from 2 turn's out back to 1.75 and it feel's better now.
ok so i've set the mixture screw in and out to a few different settings but it seems to have no effect on it bogging when the throttle is opened.
What fuel level are you running in them ? And sorry, i've forgotten, were they 3LN1 carb's or 3LN3 carb's
they are 3ln1 carbs. this is without the airbox fitted have new boots on the way. on the float levels are 15mm, 15mm, 19mm and 35mm. so they are definitely a bit messed up but how do you actually change what the levels are? also would this be causing the bike to die under throttle?
Adjusting the float level's is pretty easy, take the float out and use a pin in the hole on the float tab to bend the tab either way They all need to be spot on otherwise it will cause a rich or lean condition for that cylinder. It won't rev nice with the airbox off, it'll be too lean The float's should sit 16mm off the fuel bowl mounting face when the needle pin is just toughing the tab You can cut a 16mm deep piece out of an old card to use as a guide to adjust them If you move the pin to the right and bend the tab a little, in the pic below, you will lower the float level If you move the pin the the left and bend that tab up it will raise the float level You can also check the fuel level with a piece of clear tubing on the drain loosen the drain screw with the clear tubing going up above the carby, the fuel level should be 9,2mm above the line on the fuel bowl Mark a line on the tube, then a second line 9.2mm further up, put the first line level with the line on the fuel bowl and when you open the drain screw the level should come up to the second line you marked
awesome thanks. ill give it a crack tomorrow. ill put the air box on with the shrunken boots till the new ones show up.
so i got the float levels close and crudely fitting the airbox with the badly shrunken airbox boots and it now runs and revs. it's not perfect but I still need to fit the exup cables. So hopefully with that and new boots and a bit more adjustment of the float levels it will run a lot better.
I saw a thread on here a while ago of somebody fixing the fairings by plastic welding etc. does anybody know where to find this thread? i'm going to have a go at fixing up the broken ones I got with the bike.
ok so i'm going to try and repair my fairings. they all have various cracks and chips etc. but the left side fairing has a large piece missing. Could anybody show me some photos of the left hand side fairing and the front fairing (mainly up by where the mirror sits). the following photos are what i'm working with. was going to chop up the other right hand side fairing to make parts for the left.
Have you tried this guy He's not far from Christchurch? https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/wrecking-bikes/auction-1544773371.htm Or there's this one up north https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/mo...12.htm?rsqid=1bd2540e360c4ef7a7c33f8bbfd646b2