Hi everyone, have had the carbs cleaned and a few rubber seals in them replaced, the guys also found that the powervalve cover was around the wrong way so the cables were sticking into it and not fully opening the valve. But......it’s running great but when it hits 8700-9000rpm it just doesn’t want to rev out? I did read somewhere that the rg up top did drop off but is this normal? I’m also thinking as my rg250 (mk111) is a jap domestic import does it have a limiter compared to Aussie delivered ones?
When it hit's 8700-9000rpm does the dash warning light come on at around 80km/h ? Could the powervalve need adjusting ? Not sure if this is your manual, but valve should close at 7,600 rpm, and then open again at 7,300 rpm as the rev's drop off Also with it being electronically controlled, is your battery good, putting out the correct voltage at idle, and at higher rpm's ?
And to make sure when I rev the bike past the 7600rpm mark where the solenoid should move the powervalve, which direction should it move? Currently if looking at the powervalve reving it, it turns anti clockwise?
Look's like your's is sitting at a different position to the picture, i cant find any more detailed picture's sorry There was something i found saying when the exhaust valve is fully closed at 7600 rpm, there is a hole visible through the u shaped cutout on the cable wheel . Can you see anything like that at 7600 rpm's?
Funny thing is my powervalve housing different to pic? Notice the line marking on manual to mine - it opposite. Could anyone confirm there powervalve rotary disc looks the same as mine?
Remove the plate and check that it has been fitted in the correct orientation. It looks to me like that large protrusion should be on the other side. EDIT: If my post is unclear, I mean flip the plate over.
If I adjust the power valve of my Aprilia RS250, I remove the exhausts and look into the cilinder. That is the only correct way to set your powervalves, IMHO.
So just an update on my powervalve issue, all is adjusted correctly even though the manual is different. I decided to double check the battery as I recalled on my Honda crm250 I had a fair few years ago with a servo controller PV that if the voltage wasn’t absolute it would play up. So I charged up the battery on a charger and noticed it was really bubbling and fizzing but didn’t think much of it at the time. The next day I put it back in and took a ride down to the guys who had adjusted the PV in the first place and would you believe it it reved our cleanly with no issues at all!! The service guy took it for a ride and said yep it’s fine, but he had another idea - if it’s working fine now after I’ve charged it let’s do a load test. Here’s my problem - the regulator is churning out 15v to the battery which is cooking it slowly and providing a varying voltage which is effecting the servo...looks like problem is solved
With my RS250, same problem once. Regulator went down to 9volt with high revs. So no power enough to open de power valves. Eventhough, the bike did rev to 13.000 rpm, even with closes power valves. But not as aggressive as should be. Luckily for me, the RS is equipped with an on board volt meter, so easy to check.