1989 GSXR250 Grey import project:- Has anyone ever done a "what fits what" for interchangeable parts? It appears I may have a crook CDI module on the GSXR250, and surely there would be multiple models that share the same unit. The GSXR750 one looks the same so perhaps it is interchangeable? The bike will only start when it feels like it, and I checked the supply wiring to the HV coils while cranking it over. The L/H coil wiring shows a "pulse" while cranking, whereas the R/H coil wiring sits at a constant 12V without pulsing. The R/H wiring is also connected to the electronic tacho, so I might unplug that to make sure its not faulty. Has anyone had this happen before? Cheers, Graham
I'm not sure if any of these will work. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesal...=SB_20180303000732&SearchText=gsx250+ignition Sound's like a transistor or capactior has gone in your TCI box, they are easy to pull apart and replace
Funny you should say that Murdo'. I was tracing some unusual electrical reading through the wiring loom (I'm an electrician, so was keen to check it thoroughly) when I disconnected the plug for the gauges. Low and behold the fault went away and the bike fired up straight away. Does anyone know if there are inherent problems with the Tacho's on these bikes? To add insult to injury, I reconnected the Tach'o and it all ran fine again. I am not confident that I have got to the bottom of this reliability issue, but the bike is off for a roadworthy certificate this week so fingers crossed. Graham
Does anyone know if the voltage at the Left Hand coil is meant to be the same as the right hand one? With the tacho plugged in, I get 12v on the Right coil. Unplug the tacho and it behaves the same as the Left coil. Is there a test specification to check the tacho wiring? I imagine it should have a high input impedance and possibly shouldn't be letting 12v through to the ignition circuit. Any thoughts guys?
Are you using a fully charged battery, over 12.6v ? How many volt's does the battery have with it running (with tacho disconnected)? Have you gone through the wiring to see see if there are any wire's dropping voltage ? If not do a Voltage Drop test
Looking at the GJ73A engine/carb setup looks exactly the same as my 1990 bandit. The across carb setup is diff but the bandit is identical with the 4 carb mikuni's. I'd wager a fair few parts from the bandit would be interchangeable with the GSX250R.
Thanks for your input Cbuzz. We have an Across as well so there are certainly a few items that are interchangeable it seems (not the carbs though). So far we have striped & cleaned the carbs and reassembled with all new gaskets and O rings, then replaced the ignition module with a new one, and a new Motobatt battery. The bike is still difficult to start, but seems to run fine once warmed up. Hopefully we will register it next week and be able to road test.
Difficulty starting could be your sync is out. Hot or cold or both? How many turns out is your air fuel? Did you replace the float needles as well
When you reassembled it and tuned the mixture's etc was it at normal operating temperature?, how many turn's out are the mixture screws currently at ? Sound's like it's a bit lean to me, try setting your mixture screw's 1/4 turn richer Agreed on carby's being out of sync making it harder to start. Is the airbox fitted? Have you checked it for vacuum leak's when running ? Eg start the bike and with it idling spray wd40 or degreaser etc onto all the carby to airbox join's, carby to intake manifold's manifold's to head. If the idle changes in any way then there's a vacuum leak there. Sorry if i've asked these question's before too
Air box is fitted and Carbs are all balanced with a vacuum column gauge. Mixture screws are set 2-1/2 turns from their home position. There does not seem to be any vacuum leaks and once warmed up the bike runs & idles fine. As far as performing further adjustments on the mixture screws, we don't have access to any tuning equipment other than doing it by trial & error. It would be nice to check with a gas analyser in the exhaust? If we can improve cold starting this bike will be a rippa'
Are you using full choke when trying to start it cold ? You don't need any other specialised equipment, maybe adjust the mixture screw's another 1/8 turn richer and try it out, if i't a little better try another 1/8 turn. Double check the sync after adjusting them too. If it's no better, or if it's worse, you can just take them back to the standard setting again, or even try leaning them off. The float height's/fuel level's are all checked and correct ?
2.5 Turns out ? That seems a lot. My bandit runs best around 1.5-1.75 turns out. What do the plugs look like after a good run ? Try starting at 1 turn out & move out slowly listen to the engine you can tweak every screw. Also, what plugs are you using ? I think the GSXR250 GJ73A has the exact same engine as the 1990 bandit. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-G...0-GJ73A-1989-Engine-J703-118264-/351606055280
The bike was booked in for registration today, but once again failed to start from cold. Only occasionally firing on 1 or 2 cylinders and farting and backfiring through the exhaust on occasions. Does any one know for sure the recommended "mixture screw" settings? It seems to be anywhere between 1 & 2-3/4 depending on model?
The base setting for mixture screw's is enough to get the bike started and running, they're usually spot on if the bike is brand new. You need to get the bike running and let it warm up to normal operating temperature, then you can adjust the mixture screw's in or out to the point where it get's to the highest/smoothest idle speed, then you can back off the idle speed screw back to normal rpm's Once you think you have it close to the best spot, give it a few blip's on the throttle, if it hesitate's then turn all the mixture screw's out 1/8 turn and see if it's any better, if worse, turn them back 1/8 turn and go back another 1/8 turn and blip it again to check response etc Sound's like the mixture screw's may be set a bit lean atm?