Litetek sell new fuel tap viton o'ring's and seal's https://litetek.co/Fuel_Tank_O-Rings_Yamaha.html Edit, greyimport has already posted this Check your fuel level's like advised, prime the fuel pump a few time's (turn ignition key switch off and on) until the fuel pump stop's as soon as you turn the ignition on, then look at the fuel level's
yeah i though i had them all pretty close last time i did them. but i'll go through them again and recheck everything.
ok guys exams are over and i'm back at it. put some fresh oil in the fizzer. checked the float levels (couple were a wee bit low). all looked good so I started it up with the airbox on. didn't need the choke for more than a couple of seconds and it took throttle after not long at all. but its pissing white smoke out the exhaust. could it be dramatically overfuelling? could that be the cause of all the gas in the sump?
White smoke is water, blue/blackish brown smoke is oil/fuel Has the water level dropped in the radiator? Does the white smoke smell kinda sweet ? Take the oil filler cap off with it running, and see if you can smell fuel.
nope took it for a test ride and its definitely burning something its not suppose to. I did check the oil fill and it was spitting some pretty clear fluid at me. don't think it smelt too much like gas. will take the fairings off again tomorrow and have another look. could fuel be leaking through another way if the floats are working properly?
Leaking head gasket maybe ? Sometime's you will see a rusty spark plug electrode when a head gasket goes
Hi andy My bike is a 3LN stripping off head and barrels do you have any specs my book is in Japanese cheers john t
@John t All original documentation and resources for the FZR250 are in Japanese as its a JDM only bike .... and grey imported to other countries There are some things translated or references to specs throughout the forum so you just have to search and read , then read and search You can use google translate or other OCR software to decipher specific things that are needed from the original documents https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?resources/categories/fzr250.25/ https://www.2fiftycc.com/index.php?forums/yamaha-250cc-in-line-4s.95/
ok so I couldn't figure out how to make a new post so i'll post it here. Looks like the FZR needs a bit of work and I wont have the time to finish it due to uni ( which i will hopefully be done with at the end of the year). In the mean time I would like some advice on how to store the bike. Should I full the the tank and emtpy the float bowls?
You need to go into the forum section that you wish to post in https://2fiftycc.com/index.php?forums/yamaha-250cc-in-line-4s.95/ Then you can create a thread in that forum section
Turn the petcock off and run the bike till all the fuel runs out.. then open the float bowl drains just make sure they are empty.. add some Fuel Saver to the fuel that is in the bike.. that should stop it getting manky. If you have paddock stands lift the front and rear as well but a few months shouldnt hurt the tyres too much. You might want to lever the pads back a touch and hook up a trickle charger to the battery.. just to keep it topped up. Oh.. spray some WD40 or Inox onto the forks and any other chrome parts Good luck with Uni.
so the battery completely shat pants on me a while ago, and that was the end of things for a while. Manage to get a bit of spare cash from some holiday work and get a new battery. I knew i need to get a smaller battery or relocate it so I could put the R6 rear shock. So i went to the shop to find available options. ended up finding a little lithium battery that is so much smaller and like a 20th of the weight with only 5 less CCA. Also had a chat with the mechanic at the shop, who thinks some of the problem with the carbs could be the stuffed battery draining power from the coils and blowing out the spark when trying to add throttle? anyway I'll give the battery a charge and put it in and see what happens. I still think ill need to do a fair bit of carb tuning.
A lot of bikes suffer from this problem when cranking. The voltage drop to the coils makes it very hard for them to start when they need their best spark. Some even have the headlights on at the same time which is just plain stupid. Often the engine will catch as soon as you take your finger off the button.
OK guys I know its been a while since there was any update on this project but a lot has happened in my personal live in the last year. I managed to finish my engineering degree, get a job, move islands and buy a house. Now I have my own shed ( of course not as big as I'd like but bigger than some of the spaces I've seen better bikes built in) so I can really tackle this bike. After going through a couple of lithium batteries for some unknown reason ( suppliers says he can diagnose so just keeps replacing the battery under warranty). He thinks it may be a drain. I know this bike has been crashed at some stage and when I got the bike compression tested the mechanic said he turned the handle bars full lock he blew a fuse. I have not been able to replicate this so I am not sure. So are reading back through some of the parts of this thread and reading through some other fzr threads on here I going to go back to the start with this bike. Once the new battery shows up I am going to start with doing my own compression test then I will double check my valve clearances. Then I will look at the loom around the head-stem and see if I can find any faults ( not looking forward to this). After that I will head back to the carbs and give them another clean out and possibly make a jig to set up the float levels properly. hopefully after all that I can get the bike re-vinned and back on the road. P.S the moving company destroyed my side fairings in the move so they are currently being repaired by a friend of mine.
Hi guys. I know it has been a long time since any progress on this project. I finally have a battery after even more dramas with shipping, lost packages etc. So I thought I would start with my own compression test. I removed all the plugs (which looked fairly good, they should they are new) and removed the carbs ( I plan to open these up and give them a re clean). The battery was almost fully charged. The results are: #1 95 PSI #2 97 PSI #3 110 PSI #4 100 PSI Now the compression tester I used was not expensive and I don't even think it has a brand on it anywhere. While I was cranking the engine over the pressure build on the gauge wasn't a nice even climb and a couple of cylinders seemed to change final reading depending on which crank it was. Is this normal? could valve clearances be related to this effect or the uneven compression? I'm thinking of re checking the clearances next.
update I put oil down the plug hole and re tested Results: #1 125 PSI #2 140 PSI #3 140 PSI #4 140 PSI but now my battery charger has gone dead. So would this mean that my rings are shot?
Original compression test done with the throttle plates fully open and the slides propped fully open? Or even with the carbs removed altogether?