Toenail clippers Pulley remover type 1 (mincer plate with bolt in the crank) Pulley remover type 2 (upper A-arm ball joint) Just to clarify, I do have a proper pulley remover, different size, and some correct tools to do jobs properly... Admittedly, spray painting a bike frame with subframe black using a degreaser gun isn't helping my case, either. P.S. the degreaser gun does work, but I wouldn't recommend it for most paints and painting jobs.
I am thinking of buying one of these to slow up the speed on the Vacuum I connect up to my blast cabinet... and maybe add on a dust separator... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/220V-40...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cyclone...338464?hash=item2ac7d65360:g:oOUAAOSwdwlckycw Save killing my good Ryobi Wet & Dry Vac....
Yeah that should work. I have a similar variable voltage controller that i use on a few on my tool's, i can hook up my Vax W&D Vacuum to it tomorrow and try it out if you want I found that my blasting cabinet need's full vacuum power to be able to see the part's well
I find that mine straightens the gloves out when the internal filter has been cleaned (on the cabinet). I am thinking of removing that and reducing the vacuum... together with the cyclone separator will hopefully give me a bit better vision. I also saw one that had a ball valve in the suction line to trim the vacuum flow but I dont like that idea so much.
For the inside of fork tubes: long screwdriver with wet-and-dry sticky taped on the handle and filter foam under the paper. Drill because I'm lazy.
I have a number of pieces of metal rod and wooden dowel with slots cut in them. I slide emery paper into the slot an it works brilliantly. I used to make these polishing tools as an apprentice in the Aircraft game about 47 years ago... and the trick had been around long before then..
A couple of items arrived today. My merge connector (304ss) and the sprocket nuts, nice light weight aluminum items. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Dang it... these should have been in what the Postman brought today... Oh well.. Old age does that to you..
I know some people make their own Sync tools and there are cheapie Chinese Vacuum items for sale as well as the more expensive Electronic items from the UK etc. I priced one up recently and it was over A$200 by the time it got here.. so after some investigation I found this... Aussie made, reasonable price and looks to be a quality piece of equipment.. https://raytechautomotive.com/produ...burettor-throttle-valve-balancer-synchronizer Not buying one just yet.. I spent my allowance on a Honda Spada but I will get it when I start properly playing with the CB400
Speaking of such things, here is a home made version using an Arduino. https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Throttle-Body-Syncronization-Shield/ Myself, I will go with the Morgan Carbtune.
Talking about carby balancer's , if your bike is a twin cylinder only , have a look at a Twinmax Carburetor balancer. Have personally used this tool for many year's when i was learning how to balance the early model BM carb's. Very easy to use and super compact to carry if you have to.The I.D vacuum hoses off the Twinmax are the same as the Simpson / hoover washing machine pressure tube hose , so if your after a longer easy to purchase , just don't forget to ask for the silicone style of hose.
For a twin, just use a loop of clear hose and a bit of oil/ATF or dyed water in the middle - give it about half a metre of liquid and of air. You can use this for 4-cylinder engines by balancing each pair and then balance the 2 pairs. Not as easy as a 4 vacuum digital doo-dad.
As I get older and more pathetic, I was thinking of investing in some kind of hoist to help around the place. I found a good website that explains tools and their usage...
TOOLS EXPLAINED DRILL PRESS : A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL : Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh*t' ANGLE GRINDER : A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS : Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER : An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW : One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. MOLE-GRIPS : Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXY-ACETYLENE TORCH : Used almost entirely for setting on fire various flammable objects in your shop. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.. TABLE SAW : A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK : Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW : A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST : A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER : Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER : A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR : A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50p part. HOSE CUTTER : A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER : Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. STANLEY KNIFE : Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. ADJUSTABLE SPANNER: aka "Another hammer", aka "the Swedish Nut Lathe", aka "Crescent Wrench". Commonly used as a one size fits all wrench, usually results in rounding off nut heads before the use of pliers. Will randomly adjust size between bolts, resulting in busted knuckles, curse words, and multiple threats to any inanimate objects within the immediate vicinity. BASTARD TOOL : Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Bastard' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro