Fixing My Beast On a Budget.

There are no "Stupid Questions" if you do not know the answer. I'll try not to give you any stupid answers.

1: I use Golden Spectro oil and a Yami filter.

2: Again, Yami filter.

3: Personally I do not put a lot of faith in gas additives, but some claim the Chevron stuff is really good, but I don't know if you have Chevron gas over there.

4: Plugs are a bitch to change, but you can do it. I have faith. NGK, Nippon, Bosch, Splitfire, and on, and on. Your choice on plugs.

5: You don't have to have the best, but choose a quality one at least. (Hint: there are only about 4-5 battery manufactures in the world, everyone else just puts there name on them)

6: Carb work. I recommend a pro, but it can be done at home as I'm finding out.

Any more Q's? just ask.

 

(1) Motul oil is good and not sure on filter as the mechanic changed it when i took it in to get a cable replaced free of charge
(3) I am not sure on the best carb cleaner but i used Nulon and it was great i would recomend that
(5) I would suggest getting a battery if you can afford one, a decent one wil set u back $50-70 but then again charging it will fix this cheaply for the mean time, so it up to you

and as for petrol, i use regular unless i stop at a caltex then i get vortex as it runs really good on my bike and is really the only premium that does, but its up to u i suggest shopping around for the petrol that suits u.

This is from personal experience but they may be someone out there who has found a better product.

 

This is more of a question than an answer - back in the mid '80s when these engines were first made, the petrol choices were regular(90 octane i think) and super (98 octane) - nowadays we have ulp (91 octane) and PULP (95 octane) - The FZR has hi compression 12:1 and I suspect that is was designed to run on super but I am not sure.

Anyway, read this link - its interesting if nothing else
http://www.chevrolet.com.au/articles/knock.html

Just to be kind to the engine top end I have been running flashlube as well
to look after the valves.

DAVE

 

as for the Nulon i used hi octane booster and cleaner as it does a little bit of everything, be careful because there is the pro strength is just a octane booster not a cleaner(as is my understanding).

As for the fuel i dont think the fzr was deigned to take super as that was leaded and the FZR is an unleaded bike, i am also assuming (as the bike is an import) you would have to look at the availiable fuel types that japan had at the time of manufacture but id say they would not be too different to australia at that time.

 

1) I use Shell VSX4, haven’t had any problems with it. The Yamaha fzr250 3ln part number for the oil filter = 3FV - 13440 - 10. This is my number, if you have a 2kr it will be different. It is always best to check this number with what is on your oil filter before buying one, but this is what is on my 3ln.

2) On the 3ln the air filter is made of paper and isn’t washable. All you can do is spray it with compressed air to clean it. Keep in mind they are white in colour new, once they are a distinctive brown they need to be replaced. If it is dark, replacing it will help to lean the mixture but it will not fix it. I don’t know the part number for this one. Again the 2kr one is different to the 3ln.

3) I only used this stuff once didn’t seem to do much. No amount of carb cleaner will help lean the mixture. If you are going to pull them apart, cleaning them well is 1000 times better than any fuel additive.


4) I use NGK CR8E spark plugs. I have found that they have a habit of snapping at the top of the thread before causing any damage to the engine. If it ever happens you can get it out with a screw driver, but a good trick is not to do it up too tight

5) I would wait to see how it works before replacing it. If it keeps giving you trouble once your bike is running properly change it, but it is not a necessity when working on a budget. Just keep the charger handy.


As to for the rich mixture, most of the time it is caused by worn needles and emulsion tubes. If this is the case just tuning the carbs will not fix the problem but you may be able to make it livable, adjusting the needles and getting everything else set right. Sooner or later you will have to spring for new bits tho. Make sure to get the mechanic to check if they are worn when you take it in.

I use PULP in my bike, I find it runs smoother than regular. Some people have had issues with the premium sold at Shell servos. The bike was built for Japan, the japs have been using fuels equivalent to our premium since the mid 80's. In the end it comes down to personal choice really. It will not have any effect on the mixture.

As gcfrzau said all of the above comments are based on my own experiences and in know way do I consider them etched in stone. I am always willing to lean more about taking care of my bike.

Remember, no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people for not asking them.

 

Just a comment about compression ratio. The FZR engine may be over 12 to 1, but the effective compression ratio is going to be a lot lower, due to valve ovelap and pumping losses at high spoeeds.

 

I just changed my oil and filter. I used Motul 300V fully synthetic 15W50. I used this b/c the 2kr was running hotter than a $3 whore on shore leave. There are aftermarket oil filters that will work. K&N = KN145 although I used a Hi-Flo 145.

I wanted to change mine too but could not find an aftermarket variation that would work. Wound up using an air compressor to clean it off.

No input on this one. Sorry

Because you are on a budget, you may consider just cleaning these up. Plugs usually are not that expensive though.

Take your old battery to a shop and have someone run a diagnostic on it. They'll tell you if it is too old to properly hold a charge.

Regarding running rich, once you clean the air filter, you may lean out the bike a bit. Change one thing at a time and make minor adjustments. If you do too many things at once, you'll be chasing gremlins for a long time.

Scotty

 

lol - live and learn. A good rule of thumb is if using a ratchet you keep turning until you feel the slightest bit of resistance at the end - then turn about 1/4 turn more and leave it. The biggest worry is if tightening them up too much then you may strip the threads in the engine and that won't be fun to fix. Your dad as a mechanic would easily be able to help you out with this though - it is an easy job.

 

Yeah, I have the hang of it now. They are so much easier to snap than the ones I have used in the car. It has happened twice to my bike, the first time it happened IK from the overclockers was showing me how to change them, not long after I got my bike. He said it was the first one he had snap on him over the many years he had been riding. He almost **** himself thinking of the cost to fix such a problem, but then it came out without too much fuss.

 

1: Yamaha Oil Filter and used (dont laugh) castrol diesel oil. Diesel oil has a higher detergent level, thus cleans alot better than normal oil (thus the higher cost). Ran the bike for 1000km and changed the oil again. The drained oil was black like it had done 20000km. Just make sure you read the label and DO NOT buy friction modified oil. Mate of mine did and ceased up the gears.

3: For a quick clean I used a Spray Carb and Combustion chamber cleaner. Warm the engine, turn it off. Take out the air filter to expose the inlets (Should see four). Make sure there is no loose debris around, as you do not want it going into the chamber, start the bike, hold the revs around 5-6000rpm. Spray a good squirt straight in the inlet. One inlet at time, if you try to do all the inlets together it will flood and stall. A good puff of smoke usually flies out the exhaust and dont be shocked to see all sorts of filth dripping out the little drain holes on the side. After you do one pass give the throttle a good wrist twist. Repeat the process. Its all good.

 

Can you give me a brand name & a price on the spray carb & combustion chamber cleaner Biglez? I've just tuned my bike with the help of an absolute carb's master and it's running better than i would ever believe... but i'm still keen on cleaning them all up immaculately.

 

Quick Silver Power Tune from Mercury Marine product line. If not supercheap have some generic brands or you can buy the suzuki one.

Still nothing beats a full carb removal and clean.

 

I use this $2 stuff from woolworths, I can feel the difference every time I put it in. It's good stuff.

 

Ading an off the shelf fuel conditioner will do nothing but but cost you $10. All it will ever do in the carbs is remove a layer of lacquer at an atomic level. Spraying carby cleaner in the intakes will give you a bit better result but stay away from the brands that don't recommend use on plastic.

Don't be lazy pull the carbies off, it takes a whole 6 tools and about 1/2 hour labor. Get those float bowls off and check for sludge, inspect the needles and seats, and give the jet a good dose of compressed air. Readjust the pilot screw and float height and replace. Should run like a scalded cat. PS unless you feel like doing the dyno time stay away from 98 PULP.