WORST ARVO EVER... i was waiting for a gap in heavy traffic in an intersection when the bike just died... no power at all, even the lights would go on eg neutral light. (im guessin because of regulator not chargin) So i attempted to to clutch start it but couldnt get enought speed for some reason (i had to push it up a f&$kin up hill like 4 times) i rekon the battery was just so dead the fuel punp wouldnt work... anyway soon afta one of my friends and his bro came to my rescue and gave me a really fast push down the hill and i got started..... from here i thort i was smart by putting it in neutral with the choke on to make it idle at like 4000 rpm to charge the battery a bit before i set of (so the whole thing wouldnt happen again) a little bit later i saw water come spitting out from under-neath, i looked at the temp, guage and it was over heatin!!! so i shut it off and there was still no power(and no coolant). another clutch start, but i got it goin this time. from here i had to go to the shops to get coolant ( 2 mins away) as i didnt want to risk cooking the engine because its like 20 mins home.... got the coolant, filled it up and wouldnt start at all again... my phone battery had also died shortly before this so i was stranded... eventually i found someone i now in the shops, used there phone and got home... now my bike is in the underground car park at a shoping center with my disk lock on it waiting for me in the morn with a charged battery. i know ive really gone on alot (just really bored, and still pissed off) THIS CANT HAPPEN AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So what is the regulator ive just found out about (from my last post) because it seems like i need a new one, and what does it look like? where abouts on the bike is it? and how can i fix it? if its possible for an amateur with a bit of mechanical knowledge... thanks
Thomson, i had the exact same problem on my bike and was in a similar situation. It died (jump start) and i tried to idle it at above 3rpm so the battery could charge but then it started to pour coolant out cause it was over heating. I replaced my regulator. Got it from the wreckers for $75. Its on the right hand side of the bike, just below your seat. Your going to have to take the back fairing off i think. Its about the size of a matchbox (2cm taller i think). Mind you the battery died again after this fix but only once so that was my problem solved. Hope that helps
The regulator, if I remember correctly, should be located underneath the right hand rear fairing. It will look like a small box with fins usually - it may be flat though (see this link. It may be black in colour, and they may be more rectangular than that picture too. Check here to see what the R/R does: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/rectifier.htm">http://www.yft.org/tex_vfr/tech/rectifier.htm</a><!-- m --> They are relatively easy to change - just plug and play really. But before you change it I would suggest going through the electrical fault finding chart to ensure that this is the problem (chart at: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.electrexusa.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf">http://www.electrexusa.com/Images/fault_finding.pdf</a><!-- m --> ). I have been told by a reliable person, but never tried (perhaps someone here can confirm) that you can use a generic car r/r on a bike, though you may need to fiddle a little bit to find a place to attach it. Generic car ones cost about $5-$10. A custom bike one costs about $50+. Or, alternatively, you can get one from a wreckers for about $30 - but who knows if this will end up having problems. They can't be fixed really as they are just a bunch of resistors that change electricity -> heat.
All good advice. I followed that link that boz posted and sorted out a very similar problem a while ago . You do have to take off the rear (RHS) fairing to get to the RR - its screwed onto the frame (just 1 screw from memory) below the seat with a bundle of wires plugged into it which you can just unplug. Also check / clean (spray with contact cleaner or WD40) all the wiring connections between the battery to the electrical system. and get a new battery too if the one you've got is over 1 yr old. They don't last too long apparently.
i just got home from bike biz in parramatta and they quoted me 123 for the regulator... i rekon this a bit much since a car one is only like 10 whats involved in putting a car one on the fzr.... or does it just fit straight in? thanks people
I was quoted $85.00 for a used one from Silverwater. Car alternators work on a completely different principle. Read the links a few posts back if you want to get technical. Amanda
Don't know really - it depends where it is located (whcih I have no clue about). See here for changing a rectifier on a vx800 (in an inconvenient place): <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.inwa.net/~m3047/rect-reg/rect-reg.html">http://www.inwa.net/~m3047/rect-reg/rect-reg.html</a><!-- m --> . My old housemate replaced his r/r on his rz250 and it took about 5 minutes - it was located under the right hand rear fairing. Took that off, put the new one in its place, and done.
